Suspension Dead Spot In Center Of Steering And Koni Adjustment Issue

[twogts4us]

I just had a local shop install the following:

• Koni yellow single adjustable shocks and struts
• Steeda X2 balljoints
• Steeda Bumpsteer kit
• End Links
• Urethane front Control Arm bushings

I had also bought Steeda offset rack bushing, but the shop said it already has offset bushings (the car already had Eibach springs and MM C/C Plates when I bought it...and apparently offset bushings too..!

The car feels great, very tight, and the 60,000 mile squeaks and creaks are gone...HOWEVER, I have a couple of issues:

• There is a dead spot that's about an inch or two wide in the center of the steering wheel. It was never there before so either these parts, the installation process, or the alignment is causing this issue. Any advice? I read over the instructions for the bumpsteer kit and it's not a simple RNR, so I have to wonder if they installed it properly.
• Also, the Driver's side strut won't adjust - it simply won't turn at all. The other's turn very easily. I crack the plastic adjuster and then even tried a pair of vise grips, but it still won't break free. Has anyone had this issue and if so were you able to fix it? I'm assuming that it's either defective or the shop used an impact wrench to install it - the instructions specifically state to use hand tools (on the top) otherwise you can jam the adjuster. I've ordered a new one and will have the shop RNR and then I'll return the original strut.

Any help / advice would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Chris

 

[90sickfox]

When you say " dead spot " is it a tight soot or a loose spot. Typically a dead spot would mean tight. I'm assuming you have loose play.

The bumpsteer kit can cause loose play if installed incorrectly.

 

[twogts4us]

Sorry for the confusion - It's loose at the center.
("if installed incorrectly") - that's my concern - are there any particular steps in the install that are often screwed up? Or are there things to watch out for? Reading over the install PDF on their website the Basic Installation seems pretty straightforward, but the Adjustment portion is quite involved and potentially time consuming. The shop did call me at one point and asked whether or not I wanted the spacer rings for the X2 Ball Joints installed (yes), so I know they read at least some of the docs. I don't mind paying for the additional labor involved, but I need to know they understand the process and will adjust it properly (as if it were their own car!). Can the alignment process itself cause this dead spot to appear?
Thanks for your feedback.

 

[trinity_gt]

Assuming everything is tight, bushings are good etc, I'd start by re-checking your alignment, specifically, the toe angle.

 

[90sickfox]

Also, check the "rag joint" on the steering column. Watching for play with someone else turning the steering wheel back and forth in the dead spot. You should be able to find where the play is coming from.

 

[twogts4us]

It''s going back to the garage on Wednesday for a new (replacement) strut and for them to look at the suspension to find the reason for the dead spot. Toe angle was something I was thinking about too...it drives straight (with hands off) and otherwise feels fine.

 

[twogts4us]

The fact that the issue started immediately after I had the struts, shocks, poly control arm bushings, end links, Steeda X2 ball joints and Steeda bumpsteer kit leads me to believe it's not the rag joint, but rather something with the new parts, how they were installed, the alignment, etc.

 

[Neuron]

The fact that the issue started immediately after I had the struts, shocks, poly control arm bushings, end links, Steeda X2 ball joints and Steeda bumpsteer kit leads me to believe it's not the rag joint, but rather something with the new parts, how they were installed, the alignment, etc.

Easy enough to check.

 

[twogts4us]

Rag joint is fine. As I mentioned everything was fine until these new parts were installed, so I'm making a pretty solid assumption that the issue is being caused by the installation of the new parts.

 

[Dark04GT]

Sounds like some simple adjustments to the bump steer kit / steering setup will fix one of your issues.

MM has a good write up on alignment and bump steer in their cc plate install instructions. Make sure your local shop puts your alignment to the proper specs. I run 0.5 Neg camber, 4.0 Positive caster, and 0.5 degrees toe-in (along MM recommendations and still holding to ford specs). Read page 5 of these instructions for more:
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/assets/install/pdf/front_susp/MMCC9994v4r8.pdf

 

[twogts4us]

Hey thanks Dark04GT, that info from MM is much appreciated. The shop now states it needs a new rack. I did just notice that it's leaking a little bit, but I still wonder why this dead spot issue only appeared after these new parts were installed? (I don't like coincidences.)
Also since the first time it was in the shop and this last visit I bought a new strut to replace the one that was (apparently) defective as the adjuster wouldn't turn. I had the shop RNR and when I got home I decided to set all 4 shocks/struts at full soft and then adjust from there...
Well guess what? The new strut doesn't adjust either!!! (I haven't been that pissed in a long time!)
I checked the original Koni they removed and now that it's off the car the adjuster turns easily. (I also checked the new strut before I took it to the shop and it turned easily too when it was fresh out of the box and not yet on the car.) So I'm left believing that they tightened the living out of the nut on top (even though the instructions state exactly what torque specs to use). I went over this before dropping it off this last time because the instructions also say Do Not Use An Impact Wrench! It's clearly obvious that someone did because they dug a little groove into the CC plate...metal shavings are still there. The shop said they only used hand tools on top, and they think the alignment shop may have used an impact wrench on it. I'm no alignment expert by any stretch but why would they need to adjust the nut that attaches the strut to the CC plate? I've always thought the adjustments are at the bottom of the strut, the CC plate and tie rod ends..?
So in the end I'm thinking they've overtightened the nut AGAIN! I'm gonna try to just fix it myself now.
Does anyone know of a shop that can do a proper alignment (taking into consideration the extra work involved when the car has a bumpsteer kit installed)? In the Tampa Bay area? I have no problem paying for good work, but I don't want or need someone who doesn't know what a bumpsteer kit is and doesn't really understand front suspension geometry. I don't wanna be anyone's first attempt at figuring out a bumpsteer kit. I'd like to find a shop that has a proven track record.
Sorry for the long post...

Chris

 

[Dark04GT]

Hey thanks Dark04GT, that info from MM is much appreciated. The shop now states it needs a new rack. I did just notice that it's leaking a little bit, but I still wonder why this dead spot issue only appeared after these new parts were installed? (I don't like coincidences.)
Also since the first time it was in the shop and this last visit I bought a new strut to replace the one that was (apparently) defective as the adjuster wouldn't turn. I had the shop RNR and when I got home I decided to set all 4 shocks/struts at full soft and then adjust from there...
Well guess what? The new strut doesn't adjust either!!! (I haven't been that ****ed in a long time!)
I checked the original Koni they removed and now that it's off the car the adjuster turns easily. (I also checked the new strut before I took it to the shop and it turned easily too when it was fresh out of the box and not yet on the car.) So I'm left believing that they tightened the living **** out of the nut on top (even though the instructions state exactly what torque specs to use). I went over this before dropping it off this last time because the instructions also say Do Not Use An Impact Wrench! It's clearly obvious that someone did because they dug a little groove into the CC plate...metal shavings are still there. The shop said they only used hand tools on top, and they think the alignment shop may have used an impact wrench on it. I'm no alignment expert by any stretch but why would they need to adjust the nut that attaches the strut to the CC plate? I've always thought the adjustments are at the bottom of the strut, the CC plate and tie rod ends..?
So in the end I'm thinking they've overtightened the nut AGAIN! I'm gonna try to just fix it myself now.
Does anyone know of a shop that can do a proper alignment (taking into consideration the extra work involved when the car has a bumpsteer kit installed)? In the Tampa Bay area? I have no problem paying for good work, but I don't want or need someone who doesn't know what a bumpsteer kit is and doesn't really understand front suspension geometry. I don't wanna be anyone's first attempt at figuring out a bumpsteer kit. I'd like to find a shop that has a proven track record.
Sorry for the long post...

Chris

While you are getting a new steering rack - get a MM solid steering shaft. Your steering will feel amazing.

I once had adjustable shocks / struts- found out I only really liked one setting .... most of the adjustment range was horrible.

I've had bilsteins (non adjustables) ever since and they are perfect- sporty but nice.

I just had my alignment done by Ford- the adjustments should be easy and can be done by any reputable shop. I found that my local Ford had the best service and gave me an exact printout showing me very near my requested specs.

 

[twogts4us]

I tossed around buying Bilsteins vs. Koni adjustables (and now I wonder if I made a wise choice)...I'm happy with the Konis (except I am still unable to adjust the driver's side strut)...it's going back into the shop again tomorrow.
I tried to fix it myself. I had a 13 mm socket on the top of the strut with an 18" breaker bar and a 24mm crowfoot wrench hooked up to a torque wrench on the nut and tried to loosen it. I set it for 59 ft/lbs (what Koni calls for) and it easily clicked past that, but I kept cranking until the 13 mm (Craftsman) socket split right up the side. I've never broken one of their sockets. (A wrench yes, but not a socket!) The point I'm trying to make is the fact that it has been tightened way beyond what the specs call for. The shop owner swears they didn't use an air wrench. I just want it fixed and then I'll run the opposite way as fast as possible!

Regarding the solid steering shaft, yeah I'll certainly consider that when I do swap out the rack. At $280 it's one of the least expensive parts MM sells..! (Love MM, but they are pricey...but then again, as I've always said, You pay , you get .)

Thanks again.