Debating a 351c swap

I'm pretty sure the Cleveland blocks had the same bell pattern as the Windsors...the Modifieds OTOH, I believe were the same as the 385 series (429/460)...do you have any pictures of that part of the block?

FWIW, had you thought about using a 351W, or do you just happen to have a Cleveland sitting around in need of a home?

Hey, I just looked on Summit for bellhousings; according to the application specs, the 351C fits the same pattern as 302/351W...the interchange info is pulled from FRPP, so I think you should be good.

Look for headers and other parts needed for the swap. Then debate the benefit of the 351c over a 351 or 302w.

This might be of some assistance...

http://forums.corral.net/forums/351c-big-b-engine-tech/1062013-351c-fox-body-swap.html

Basically, looks like oil pan, maybe engine mounts depending on how high you want the engine to sit, then headers (which are probably far and away the most expensive parts)

D&D swap headers...not as cheap as you can get 351W headers, but here they are...

http://www.ddautospec.com/products_headers.html#jump3

Glad to be if assistance.


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I know this thread is a bit dated, but for future reference:

351c engines use the same engine mounts, bellhousing, flywheel/flexplate, and balancer/pulleys as a 302/351w.
Swapping in a 351c will be much the same as swapping in a 351w.
The biggest things you need are a Fox oil pan for a 351c and headers.
If you didn't get the distributor you needed for your ignition, then that is needed as well.
If you are going to keep your EFI/TFI, you can do so with a 460 TFI distributor and a Trickflow 351c EFI upper/lower.
The 351c uses the same firing order as an HO 5.0, and the 460 distributor interchanges with a 351c, so with the TF EFI intake, you can use your fuel rails, injectors, TB, etc, and go full on EFI 351c.

The front accessories can be a pain when trying to make your 302 stuff work on the 351c.
The 351c was an awesome engine when built right with good flowing heads and exhaust.
But there are some great flowing 302/351 heads out there....

You will be spending some money. Get ready. My swap extended over several years where I went back and modified or changed things.

Determine transmission FIRST! Everything attached to the rotating assy needs to be balanced so make your mind up or you will have to tear it all back apart to change it later.

Do not fool yourself into thinking your stock AOD will handle a 351 Cleveland in any performace form. It will scatter. Either right off the bat or in a few weeks. If you want to stay with the AOD then go with a TCI streetfighter or similar. You have a choice of lockup or nonlockup. Stock is a lockup and nonlockup is much stronger but slips more on OD. The biggest issue and advantage at the same time is overdrive. You will be able to cruise in overdrive but not be able to use overdrive while racing and only have first, second, and third. I hate this because my motor will easily pull another gear and the car would go much faster. You will need a SFI flexplate and decent stall for your setup. Get the flexplate balanced with your engine assy. You will need a Lokar Hi-Tech Kickdown Kit KD-2AODU72 for the AOD. Expect to spend about $2800. You will also need the selector shaft out of your old AOD to install in your TCI AOD and a transmission oil cooler is required by TCI.

OR.....

If you want to go with a manual look at the Magnum 6 speeds. A stock T-5 wont last long and neither will the stronger ones.
You will need a Magnum install kit.

The 351 Cleveland has the small block bell housing pattern and will bolt right up. 351M/and 400 engines have the big block pattern and require other transmissions.

-Lokar universal cut-to-fit throttle cable.
-Swap oil pan
-Swap headers
-Custom exhaust to mufflers.
-Stock or OEM motor mounts will work but must have 5/8 or more spacers installed between the mount bracket and block mounts.
-Some form of timing control. (Mech. advance dist. with MSD 6-AL, MSD timing control, Fitech EFI....)
-Fuel pump to replace stock in tank pump. (255 Lph for FiTech EFI or 89-91 F-150 fuel tank lift pump for carb) No, you do not have to get a fuel cell or all that wild crazy crap.
-Distributor (magnetic pickup for EFI or MSD 6-AL) Why waist time with points?
**Optional fuel pressure regulator (Carburetor requires one but FiTech EFI does not)
-Braided or EFI fuel lines and adaptors. (Stock fuel line disconnect adaptors to regulator to carb or straight to FiTech efi)
-Mechanical fuel pump block off plate.
-Cowl hood. (Air cleaner will not clear stock hood. Even low profile. Period)
-If you don't want to cut your stock body harness connectors off the EFI harness, you can get a donor harness or some of the connectors may be available from a parts store.
-Yank the computer and entire EFI harness from the car. The body harness, alternator harness, and routed battery and ground cables stay. If you know your 5.0 engine compartment like I do then it will all fit on the 351 just like it had on the 5.0. All grounds not attached to the EFI harness stay.
-Electric fan setup. Most the stock fan will not fit the fan shroud or even under the hood. You will need a set of relays to power the fans and 1-2 thermostats unless you go with FiTech EFI.
-Determine if you want a V-belt or serpentine accy drive system. If V belt you will have old style accy brackets and setup. I don't care for it but people use it. If serpentine then you can use 351 Windsor pulleys with the water pump pulley holes drilled to fit the Cleveland pump pattern. You will have to custom all the rest except the alternator bracket which is available out there. I can show you how to retain the power steering but not the A/c. You will need an original 351 Cleveland power steering pump bracket and your two hole 5.0 aluminum bracket that the pump mounts to. You will also have to have a reverse rotation water pump. I have found 1 in existance. If you locate others please let me know.

351 Cleveland cooling system is much more anal than the 302 HO. To fill and circulate the system initially you must jack the front of the car up pretty high and massage the lower radiator hose to promote air bubble removal. Even while running until it circulates.

Better and wider rubber on the rear. You will burn the stock tires clean off.

Start thinking of driveline strength upgrades.

Again,...people talking to dead people...the Op asked that question almost 5 years ago.

Resurrecting this post again to thank those that contributed useful information. Search button works great. Good information never dies.