Deciding On Engine Plans

Ant85 · Apr 12, 2014

I searched threads but I did not see exactly what I am looking for. I do not plan to build a racing motor, or turbo, s/c or some high powered engine. There's a few ways I can go about this and I just don't know what is right for me. I was hoping to get some opinions and see if anyone else is/was in the same boat as me.

I'm at 158k miles. It was abused I'm sure when it was used as a police car so it's just worn out. Oil pressure all over the place, oil consumption, a couple of small oil leaks, tiny bit of metal shavings in the oil. Still runs fine and there's no noises.

I'm leaning towards getting this engine rebuilt with GT40 heads, intake and put a different cam in it... Or junkyard Explorer engine and change the cam... As you can see I am not trying to do anything crazy with it. Just something simple. The main thing here is money and knowledge. I do know how to work on cars, but I have never torn down an engine. I do have a garage but I'm limited on tools do a rebuild myself(mainly not having an engine hoist or stand), but I know if I had the tools and took the time I could do this. Any input is appreciated.

tannerc91gt · Apr 13, 2014

Sounds like you want to do a rebuild?
A stock bottom end 302 with GT40s and a small bump stick is about the single most common build to ever grace the foxbody. You shouldn't have any trouble.
Refresh 302. Bore to a 306 is NEEDED, there's no power to be gained really.
GT40 heads with springs, GT40 intake, and a B cam. No MAF, no "big" throttle body, no 24# injectors, skip all the crap.
Hardly going to be a barn burner but it's dirt cheap and I think it's what you're after. It'd be a really good way to learn as well. Tear anything up and you're hardly out any cash.

smkshw · Apr 13, 2014

thats it right there....but 65mm throttle body and 70 mm maf maybe no?...on my stocker i put a 65mm throttle body cold air,maf and gt40 intake and i was happy for a while for the street...

tannerc91gt · Apr 13, 2014

smkshw said:
thats it right there....but 65mm throttle body and 70 mm maf maybe no?...on my stocker i put a 65mm throttle body cold air,maf and gt40 intake and i was happy for a while for the street...

Sure you can, IMO it's not really worth the money for such a tiny bump in performance. Everyone's experiences will differ. But if he's strictly looking for peace of mind and an idle that gets attention at a traffic light, simple is best

smkshw · Apr 13, 2014

tannerc91gt said:
Sure you can, IMO it's not really worth the money for such a tiny bump in performance. Everyone's experiences will differ. But if he's strictly looking for peace of mind and an idle that gets attention at a traffic light, simple is best

could do lots of things we all know that..$$$....ya,prob best it he does just keep it simple....lol.....i remeber when i said that once!

tamadrummer88 · Apr 13, 2014

If i remember correctly, the explorer intakes came with 65mm throttle bodies. I read somewhere that a good combo would be the MAF from a 94-95 GT would match well with the 65mm throttle body as the MAF on the 94-95 GT's are 65mm. Someone correct me if im wrong.

A5literMan · Apr 13, 2014

The sn95 maf is 70mm if I remember right. Doesn't matter it will work well. OP if you want to do an engine cheap go grab an explorer motor and do all the tricks to it. Or have your 302 overhauled with either gt40's/used alum heads with a small cam. I'd do the overhaul. You'd learn a lot and have an engine that should last for a long time.

rbohm · Apr 13, 2014

all good advice so far. remember the KISS principle KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID. start with a basic solid rebuild of the bottom end. judging by what you seem to want from this engine, you dont need a forged or hyperutectic piston, so a good quality cast replacement piston will do just fine. i like TRWs myself. take the stock rods and have them rebuilt and have ARP rod bolts installed. have the crank turned and have teh rotating assembly balanced, and that will give you a nice solid bottom end when you install quality rings and bearings. i like sealed power moly faced rings and clevite bearings.

match the cam, intake and headers to the rpm range you are going to run in 80% of the time, in this case the 1000-5000 rpm range. a 65mm throttle body and a 70mm mass air meter will work just fine, it would be like putting a vacuum secondary 750 edelbrock carb on the motor. throw in a decent cam, again keep it mild, and you will have a nice street engine that will run nicely when you want it to, and pull hard when you need it to.

cleanLX · Apr 13, 2014

Without describing how the car will be used, and what your expectations are it's really hard to give advice.

Ant85 · Apr 15, 2014

Thanks for all the advice so far.

cleanLX said:
Without describing how the car will be used, and what your expectations are it's really hard to give advice.

I was driving the car maybe three days a week. I only drive it on nice days when I feel like taking a joy ride. It will be used only on the streets. I have no intentions of running it at the track, but on that subject, it would be nice to have a decently quick car. Something that could run 13s. I know with what I want to do that is very possible. When all said is done, I would hope to spend about $2,000-$2,500

I still don't know if I want to go with a rebuilt short block or just buy a new one. Like I said I've never done this kind of stuff before and rebuilding it myself will just give me more parts to touch that I could possible mess up installing lol. Not that I'm a complete idiot or anything, but I'm one of those types of people that if something bad is gonna happen to them then it will be me.

Ant85 · Apr 15, 2014

Has anyone had any experience with this rebuild kit?

http://www.dssracing.com/product_p/ek3000f.htm

Engine Kit for Ford 302. These are the similar parts used in our Bullet short blocks. Includes DSS Racing SX series CNC flycut forged pistons with floating pins, moly rings, tri-metal rod, main and cam bearings, and a deep seat freeze plug kit. Fly cut to fit most aftermarket heads (including Trick Flow Twisted Wedge). Optional ARP Wav-loc rod bolts are available. Clears most aftermarket performance camshafts Use with your block, crankshaft, and connecting rods for an inexpensive, quality rebuild.

Click to expand...

Get my block bored to 306, and then just worry about the crankshaft and rods? And a cam?

Does anyone know if that kit will work with GT40 heads?

Ant85 · Apr 15, 2014

I also found this one, this one seems more like what I need and not overboard like the other one and this one includes more

http://www.northernautoparts.com/pa...son_shopping&gclid=CPKFtKTR470CFW1nOgodeD0AXg

A5literMan · Apr 16, 2014

Ant85 said:
Has anyone had any experience with this rebuild kit?

http://www.dssracing.com/product_p/ek3000f.htm

Get my block bored to 306, and then just worry about the crankshaft and rods? And a cam?

Does anyone know if that kit will work with GT40 heads?

You would be fine with that kit. Just need the necessary machine work to the block,crank,rods,etc. You only need a fairly mild cam and ptv clearance shouldn't be a problem(check anyway). Have the heads done,gaskets,oil pump,etc and you'd have a brand new longblock for under 2500$ easily capable of 13 sec performance levels.

tannerc91gt · Apr 17, 2014

You could find an LS1 on that budget

S&B · Apr 17, 2014

even though they are getting harder to find in decent condition it would seem easier to find a decent explorer motor throw in the cam and your ACCYs. and be done at half the cost or less. But you never know with a used engine thats the only hitch

Ant85 · Apr 26, 2014

S&B said:
even though they are getting harder to find in decent condition it would seem easier to find a decent explorer motor throw in the cam and your ACCYs. and be done at half the cost or less. But you never know with a used engine thats the only hitch

Yeah, that is what I am finding out now that I am really looking for a motor. What I don't want to do is buy a Explorer motor and find out there's issues. It would make life so much easier to go the Explore route, but it could be a bigger headache and cost more money....

So as of now I think I'm just going to find a used block, get a rebuild kit and go from there. I've got about $500 saved up. That should be enough to cover a block and the rebuild kit.... Oh wait. I need an engine stand and more tools!! damnit lol

I've tried for years to get myself out of credit card debt and I'm finally getting to where I am happy with my credit, but it's very tempting to just order a crate motor and throw it on a credit card.... But, I know how much trouble I got myself in before.

Deciding On Engine Plans

Ant85

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tannerc91gt

This last 25% is foreign territory at this point

smkshw

tannerc91gt

This last 25% is foreign territory at this point

smkshw

tamadrummer88

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A5literMan

At least it is lumpy...

rbohm

cleanLX

Ant85

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Ant85

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Ant85

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A5literMan

At least it is lumpy...

tannerc91gt

This last 25% is foreign territory at this point

S&B

I hate my CT. :(

Ant85

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This last 25% is foreign territory at this point

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