Degreeing cams
- Thread starter phalcrow
- Start date
XtorT'r
New Member
go over to MD. go into the "general tech and frequently asked questions" forum in the tech section. There's a sticky you should read.
BTW, it is absolutely RIDICULOUS that you can't even post the name of another site on this board!! That is Bull!! What is Stangnet afraid of????
BTW, it is absolutely RIDICULOUS that you can't even post the name of another site on this board!! That is Bull!! What is Stangnet afraid of????
fastangboi
My first set of nuts vibrated themselves off.
At least this will give me an excuse to go ported heads and forged parts.
DTMach1
New Member
fastangboi
My first set of nuts vibrated themselves off.
is there any advantage to degreeing? y cant you just drop the cams in and make sure the chain and notches match up?
The advantage is that you'll know whether or not your valves are going to smack your pistons. Very cheap insurance.
These engines are pretty tight, tolerance wise. There is little room for error. When you add lift and duration, the tolerance envelope gets even tighter.
BTW, STAY AWAY FROM FIDANZA GEARS!! They are known to slip due to poor/lack of engineering.
As I've said before, the key on the gear is only there to facilitate quick assembly in the plant. It does NOT bear any load. The massive washer on the bolt head bears all of the load via clamp force on the gear. You can file the key down or even off to get the correct timing.
These engines are pretty tight, tolerance wise. There is little room for error. When you add lift and duration, the tolerance envelope gets even tighter.
BTW, STAY AWAY FROM FIDANZA GEARS!! They are known to slip due to poor/lack of engineering.
As I've said before, the key on the gear is only there to facilitate quick assembly in the plant. It does NOT bear any load. The massive washer on the bolt head bears all of the load via clamp force on the gear. You can file the key down or even off to get the correct timing.
fastangboi
My first set of nuts vibrated themselves off.
Stock cams....no. Also, the piston dish volume has nothing to do with whether or not to degree the cams. All pistons have that flat area around the outer perimeter of the deck which measures roughly 10mm wide (9-12 mm depending on dish volume). This is where the valves will contact the piston, not in the center portion.
Degreeing advantages
It's more of necessary step than an advantageous one. If you've ever assembled a modular you'll often find a difference of 6-8 degrees during assembly which is why you need to degree these motors. Alot of the pushrod motor guys can get away with murder by not degreeing their cams, but the modular folks aren't so blessed with this.
We're going to be placing a step by step walk through on this very procedure in a language hopefully most can understand.
There is more than one way to skin a cat here.
~Ty
fastangboi said:
It's more of necessary step than an advantageous one. If you've ever assembled a modular you'll often find a difference of 6-8 degrees during assembly which is why you need to degree these motors. Alot of the pushrod motor guys can get away with murder by not degreeing their cams, but the modular folks aren't so blessed with this.
We're going to be placing a step by step walk through on this very procedure in a language hopefully most can understand.
~Ty
DTMach1
New Member
[QUOTE='01 Steed]The advantage is that you'll know whether or not your valves are going to smack your pistons. Very cheap insurance.
These engines are pretty tight, tolerance wise. There is little room for error. When you add lift and duration, the tolerance envelope gets even tighter.
BTW, STAY AWAY FROM FIDANZA GEARS!! They are known to slip due to poor/lack of engineering.
As I've said before, the key on the gear is only there to facilitate quick assembly in the plant. It does NOT bear any load. The massive washer on the bolt head bears all of the load via clamp force on the gear. You can file the key down or even off to get the correct timing.[/QUOTE]
I knew about grinding the tooth off the stock cam gear...thanks for the tip on the fidanza junk, I'll stay away from 'um!
These engines are pretty tight, tolerance wise. There is little room for error. When you add lift and duration, the tolerance envelope gets even tighter.
BTW, STAY AWAY FROM FIDANZA GEARS!! They are known to slip due to poor/lack of engineering.
As I've said before, the key on the gear is only there to facilitate quick assembly in the plant. It does NOT bear any load. The massive washer on the bolt head bears all of the load via clamp force on the gear. You can file the key down or even off to get the correct timing.[/QUOTE]
I knew about grinding the tooth off the stock cam gear...thanks for the tip on the fidanza junk, I'll stay away from 'um!
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