Details on how to re-install stock lifter/roller rockers/

[BlueOvalStangGT]

Hey I got my heads , my headers, both of my accesory brackets and my ps pulley back on. Tomorow I need to finsih so I can go for a dyno tune the next day. Who knows how to install the stock lifters/roller rockers(what are they called)? Ive heard one amazingly confusing way that I dont remember, one where you tighten till you cannot turn pushrods anymore and then an extra 1/4 turn and one where you just tighten to 35 ft pnds. Anyone know the right way?

 

[94TURBO5 O]

All I do is dip the pushrods in oil then slide them in. The rockers just tighten enough to get them tight by hand. Then you need to start turning the crank to bring the #1 piston to TDC. When it is torque the both #1 rocker bolts to 18 lbs. Then follow the firing order and bring the next to TDC and so on. Every 1/4 turn of the crank will bring the next piston to TDC, so if you are using a breaker bar and you start @ the 1 o'clock position and go to 3 o'clock it will bring the next piston to TDC all the way throught the firing order.
(The pushrods should be installed in the same place as they were removed.)
I also drizzle oil on the rocker arms and pushrods after they are all torqued down.
FYI:Next time leave off one of the PS bracket bolts (the one you cant get unless you take off the ps pulley) b/c if you have to rip it apart again soon it sucks to take off the pulley. It seems to be the hardest part of the job to me. It will be fine and you can put it back in later if you want but I don't use mine and it's been fine.

 

[Joes95GT]

Also, make sure the lifters roll parallel on the cam lobes, not perpendicular. If you did that, things would get ugly, quick.

Joe

 

[nmcgrawj]

All I do is dip the pushrods in oil then slide them in. The rockers just tighten enough to get them tight by hand. Then you need to start turning the crank to bring the #1 piston to TDC. When it is torque the both #1 rocker bolts to 18 lbs. Then follow the firing order and bring the next to TDC and so on. Every 1/4 turn of the crank will bring the next piston to TDC, so if you are using a breaker bar and you start @ the 1 o'clock position and go to 3 o'clock it will bring the next piston to TDC all the way throught the firing order.
(The pushrods should be installed in the same place as they were removed.)
I also drizzle oil on the rocker arms and pushrods after they are all torqued down.
FYI:Next time leave off one of the PS bracket bolts (the one you cant get unless you take off the ps pulley) b/c if you have to rip it apart again soon it sucks to take off the pulley. It seems to be the hardest part of the job to me. It will be fine and you can put it back in later if you want but I don't use mine and it's been fine.

And can you tell me how you tell when it is at TDC with the heads on? Does it matter what stroke? Do you just look at the balancer and watch for the 0? I am asking because i am trying to go through all the steps for when i do my h/c/i and trying to figure out this re-assembly process. What about the distributor? You put number one at TDC and point the rotor at the number one cyclinder? Is it at 10* then or 0?

Im a little confused when it comes to that.

 

[BlueOvalStangGT]

OK just for insurance, Bring the crank to TDC, torque # 1 down to 18#'s then turn crank 1/4 turn and do it agian for number 8?? Keep going till im done with all 8 cyl? SOunds simple enough, if this is wrong someone tell me before I get my v/c's on.

 

[BlueOvalStangGT]

Also, make sure the lifters roll parallel on the cam lobes, not perpendicular. If you did that, things would get ugly, quick.

Joe

Are lifters and roller rockers the same?

 

[nmcgrawj]

Are lifters and roller rockers the same?

No no no, lifters ride the cam, they push up on pushrods which push up on the roller rockers which in turn push down on the valve. I hope this paint shop drawing i did helps you understand a LITTLE bit....i know cant draw lol .

 

[Cobra4075]

When I installed my roller rockers on the pedestal mount heads, I had to use shims. So, get a couple packs of shims for ford heads. Each pack has shims with three different thickness. I was told by the tech at D&D motorsports to bump the engine until the lifter was all the way down, shim the rocker if needed until it can be tightened @25 foot lbs without pushing on the valve spring enough to open the valve. And tighten a 1/4 turn. Then move on to the next valve. I could be wrong on the torque specs, It's been a while. I use used a starter button to turn the engine. Much easier than a breaker bar. Lesson learned, always by stud mount heads!

 

[nmcgrawj]

So shouldnlt the motor piss air twice? So if i feel it once and its not close to zero, keep going until i feel it again and it should be at zero or close. Just double checking my understanding....

 

[RIO5.0]

And can you tell me how you tell when it is at TDC with the heads on? Does it matter what stroke? Do you just look at the balancer and watch for the 0? I am asking because i am trying to go through all the steps for when i do my h/c/i and trying to figure out this re-assembly process. What about the distributor? You put number one at TDC and point the rotor at the number one cyclinder? Is it at 10* then or 0?

Im a little confused when it comes to that.

Try this....

Pull #1 plug....using your finger over the plug hole, turn the motor til it pisses air...look at your balancer...it should be a zero , or close, tweak it to zero..grab the distr and place it in the block, you want the rotor around 12:00 as you slide it in the block.... when you drop it in the rotor will rotate to approx 1:00...place your cap on, and see if the rotor is directly over your #1 plug wire...if so, you should be good to go...if not, lift the distr up an inch or so, grab the rotor and turn it what ever direction needed to line up #1 on your cap....your trying to grab the next tooth on the cam by doing this...you get the idea....

 

[94TURBO5 O]

And can you tell me how you tell when it is at TDC with the heads on? Does it matter what stroke? Do you just look at the balancer and watch for the 0? I am asking because i am trying to go through all the steps for when i do my h/c/i and trying to figure out this re-assembly process. What about the distributor? You put number one at TDC and point the rotor at the number one cyclinder? Is it at 10* then or 0?

Im a little confused when it comes to that.

You must put the dist @ TDC before you pull it out. So when you start with it on #1 according to the rotor tip and then turn the crank the rotor then goes to the next position in the firing order which is #3 and that will be the next one to torque down.

 

[Joes95GT]

You must...

You don't exactly have to....

What happens when you put a cam in it car?! You've gotta new cam gear in it that's now outta wack.

Joe

 

[94TURBO5 O]

I just meant that's the way I was able to do it.

 

[5spd GT]

Every 1/4 turn of the crank will bring the next piston to TDC, so if you are using a breaker bar and you start @ the 1 o'clock position and go to 3 o'clock it will bring the next piston to TDC all the way throught the firing order.

Actually wouldn't that be 12-3 or 1-4

 

[94TURBO5 O]

Actually wouldn't that be 12-3 or 1-4

OMG dude! You are exactly correct! I meant 12-3 and don't know why I didn't realize that frigg'n typo before! Thanks man!

 

[BlueOvalStangGT]

OK NEW PROBLEM! Put all the plugs back in and tryed to start it. It cranks over but makes a funny noise. Its hard to explain but its like a 55gallon drum when you knock on it. It was pretty loud the last time I tried it before I turned it off. Any ideas?

 

[BlueOvalStangGT]

I had someone crank it while i listened and i think it sounded like it came from where my air filter is, but now it doesnt do it anymore

 

[BlueOvalStangGT]

HEY, TTT for me. I want my car! Heres a sound clip
http://s2.yousendit.com/d.aspx?id=A2B890E375DBFBBFE86FF61B45D03561

 

[5spd GT]

I listened to the sound clip...I have never heard anything like that...it doesn't sound good...but what do I know...

 

[BlueOvalStangGT]

I dunno what happened the night I was working on it, I must have been too tired or intoxicated off of the oil and antifreeze all over my garage floor because I checked my timing again and it wasnt even close. Fixed it in like 10 minutes but then my coil died. That noise I think may have been backfireing being muffled by the vortech.