Progress Thread Diagnosis front end clunk (and more)

AeroCoupe · Apr 21, 2026

Again, its all about the specs on the camshaft. I have seen 185's on stock bottom ends and after claying the motor they had plenty of clearance. AFR is covering their ass from dumb dumbs that just bolt stuff on and send it.

TOOLOW91 · Apr 21, 2026

JD1964 said:
I’m shimming pedestal rockers. I have stock forged piston in this 302. According to Airflow Research, the AFR 165 Renegade pedestal style heads are the only AFR heads that work with stock pistons.

I understand , just so you know TFS twisted wedge heads work with the stock pistons to but that’s not the convo here. Especially with a stock cam.

I had those same rockers years ago they are the same as 93 cobra rockers.

All the shims end up realistically doing is making up for pushrod length. If they were right length the pre load would come in correct with no shim.

Either way , can’t wait to see it all buttoned up and running good for you again !

JD1964 · Apr 22, 2026

TOOLOW, do the Twisted Wedge heads you mention have pedestal mount rocker options or are they all stud mount?

TOOLOW91 · Apr 22, 2026

JD1964 said:
TOOLOW, do the Twisted Wedge heads you mention have pedestal mount rocker options or are they all stud mount?

Stud mounts

JD1964 · Apr 22, 2026

.020 shims give me 1/2 to 5/8 turns preload on cylinder #1. I’m going to rotate the engine 90 degrees at a time and follow the firing order to continue with .020 and see what happens

JD1964 · Apr 26, 2026

Heads are on and torqued. Headers on. Valve train on with .020 shims in each position getting 5/8 to 3/4 turn to cinched in all positions. Next I’m going to put the exhaust and o2’s back on underneath and then to water pump.

JD1964 · Apr 30, 2026

I got the exhaust back and o2’s back on underneath, gapped a new set of 3924’s at .035” and put them in.

Which ones of these water pump mount bolt holes extends into the water jacket?

JD1964 · Apr 30, 2026

It’s a 92 if that matters to the question

AeroCoupe · Apr 30, 2026

It would be the four you already have bolts in.

JD1964 · May 1, 2026

AeroCoupe said:
It would be the four you already have bolts in.

So thread sealer on those four is a must, is that correct?

AeroCoupe · May 1, 2026

So use some Permatex thread sealant on those four and anti-seize on the other ones.

JD1964 · May 1, 2026

I’m waiting on a 5/16 extended reach tap to chase the threads before I continue. Should be here tomorrow

AeroCoupe · May 1, 2026

If you are going to tap the threads going into the water jacket be sure to use some grease on the tap. Clean the grease and debris off after each use so that crap doesn't end up in the cooling system.

JD1964 · May 2, 2026

Got the intake torqued on today

The extended tap for water pump holes is late getting here but that’s next

JD1964 · May 3, 2026

AeroCoupe said:
So use some Permatex thread sealant on those four and anti-seize on the other ones.

I probed the bolt holes and for the life of me I couldnt confirm that they break through into the water jacket. I also searched the web and watched multiple videos and saw none where thread sealer was used on the bolt threads. I then found this from out old friend. So just to clarify, it looks like thread sealer is not needed on the bolt threads but anti seize is highly recommended on all of them.

Thread 'Water Pump Bolts'

Oct 10, 2015

My friend installed a new water pump on his 5.0 Mustang but he didn't use any thread sealant on the water pump bolt threads. There are no leaks at the bolts. Is it bad not having thread sealant on the threads? Does he need to add thread sealant or is ok without it?

JD1964 · May 3, 2026

Im planning on retorque the head studs after the first heat cycle.

Incidentally, I forgot to use anti seize on the intake manifold bolts when I put them in. So, when I remove the upper to retorque the head studs, my plan is to remove the intake bolts in sequence one at a time and apply anti seize and then retorque. Do you see any potential problems with this plan?

Thanks, John

DadLife0724 · May 3, 2026

JD1964 said:
Im planning on retorque the head studs after the first heat cycle.

Incidentally, I forgot to use anti seize on the intake manifold bolts when I put them in. So, when I remove the upper to retorque the head studs, my plan is to remove the intake bolts in sequence one at a time and apply anti seize and then retorque. Do you see any potential problems with this plan?

Thanks, John

I would loosen all bolts before pulling one out completely. Maybe I'm over thinking it, but pulling one completely out while others around it are still torqued screams sketchy in my head. Better safe than sorry.

AeroCoupe · May 3, 2026

You are overthinking it. What concerns me more is using a lubricant (anti-seize) on the bolts. If you set your torque wrench to the same value it will over torque the bolts and possibly pull the aluminum threads on the AFR heads. I have posted this in a few threads and I will here as well. You need to toss the bolts and move to studs on the lower intake. With bolts you are exerting two forces on the threads which are torsion and tension. With studs you are only exerting tension which is less of a load on the threads when torquing.

I ended up installing helical inserts on my AFR and Edelbrock aluminum heads as I got the Edelbrocks used and a couple of the threads were mostly pulled. The AFR's I just did for good measure the last time I build the motor.

Of course ARP makes a set and they are ARP pricey. Speedmaster also makes a set and they are a little less than half of what ARP wants and in this case I would not hesitate to run them. Rotating assembly and cylinder heads are a different story but being you are torquing to about 18 ft-lbs on an aluminum intake it does not take a super high quality steel for this.

Ford SB 289 302 351 Windsor 12 Point Black Oxide Intake Manifold Stud Kit

OverviewSpeedmaster black-oxide coated chromoly intake manifold bolts are rated at 170,000 psi. They're precision-machined for optimum thread engagement and have a wide-area flange for better load distribution. They also feature precision-rolled threads, which prevent galling, while promoting...

www.speedmaster79.com

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-354-2103?seid=srese1&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=1012069904&gclid=CjwKCAjw5NvPBhAoEiwA_2egfuULYRMmJU24JRnFco07hDoORWBwU6laFUq8EP3C_M-5dQyAbV8GWxoCapYQAvD_BwE

JD1964 · May 3, 2026

Definitely got to be careful either way the aluminum threads. My final tq value was 225 in/lbs

JD1964 · May 3, 2026

So if I went 225 in/lbs with dry threads, I’m probably not clamped down enough. I’m going to retorque the intake using anti seize. 225 in/lbs with anti seize

Progress Thread Diagnosis front end clunk (and more)

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes

If you're the village idiot what's that make me?

there is enough sticking out to grab on to

If you're the village idiot what's that make me?

there is enough sticking out to grab on to

there is enough sticking out to grab on to

there is enough sticking out to grab on to

there is enough sticking out to grab on to

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes

there is enough sticking out to grab on to

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes

there is enough sticking out to grab on to

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes

there is enough sticking out to grab on to

there is enough sticking out to grab on to

there is enough sticking out to grab on to

Active Member

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes

there is enough sticking out to grab on to

there is enough sticking out to grab on to

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