hey does anyone know what the difference between the shorty and full length headers are, other than the size difference...does one give you better power or what are the advantages compared to each other
difference in headers
- Thread starter 92riceeater
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Mavrick
Founding Member
Shorty's are an easy bolt on part, whereas longtubes require lifting the motor up and make starters a bitch to get at. Having said that, shorty's will likely lose you a little low end on a stock motor and you probably won't notice anything other than exhaust tone. Longtubes create more power all accross the RPM range and sound better to boot.
Shorty's are a waste of time, because you'll probably go LT's down the road anyways.
Shorty's are a waste of time, because you'll probably go LT's down the road anyways.
Mavrick
Founding Member
You will need a long-tube specific midpipe, although an exhaust shop would be able to fix you up (maybe $50).
Curse
Member
Mavrick said:Shorty's are an easy bolt on part, whereas longtubes require lifting the motor up and make starters a bitch to get at. Having said that, shorty's will likely lose you a little low end on a stock motor and you probably won't notice anything other than exhaust tone. Longtubes create more power all accross the RPM range and sound better to boot.
Shorty's are a waste of time, because you'll probably go LT's down the road anyways.
:Word: I have shortys now, but want LTs so now I need to spend more $$$. Should have done it right the first time. .
would the install be easier with a different k member? one small question is will the motor sit in the same spot as before and utilize the stock engine mounts, and is this a home install or would it be best to take it to a shop and have them worry about it all? is there a website that exlains all about headers and that, if there is could you post the address to the site
Yes, is at home install. I have heard of people doing the install without pulling the motor up. The motor will not move in terms of mounts. They are just as they are called, long tubes...longer tubes, meaning shorter mid (H or X) pipe. You will need extensions for your O2 sensors (Summit, everyone sells them).
Some would say that if you have to ask, you probably shouldn't do it yourself. To that I say, do it yourself, because everyone has to learn sometime. Plus, it'll save you some money.
EDIT: don't forget to get new gaskets for between the headers and heads - stock ones will be long gone in terms of their useful lifetime.
Some would say that if you have to ask, you probably shouldn't do it yourself. To that I say, do it yourself, because everyone has to learn sometime. Plus, it'll save you some money.
EDIT: don't forget to get new gaskets for between the headers and heads - stock ones will be long gone in terms of their useful lifetime.
Mavrick
Founding Member
I don't agree with longtubes being the only way to go on headers.
Longtubes create less ground clearance, possible starter heatsoak problems, harder to work around (clutch installs for one). More expensive. The inability to use your stock h pipe. Less emissions legally possible, which is crucial to states that give smog checks. Steering clearance problems. Harder to install for sure, usually requiring the engine to be lifted or tilted. Clutch cables are more likely to be weakened by exhaust heat. 02 extensions are possibly needed. I have heard of more interior heat...
Or shorties without these problems for about $400 dollars cheaper. Or you can spend $400 dollars more (if not more) to go .05 tenths faster at the drag strip. It's all in what you want and what you willing to give up.
I am getting longtubes by the way...almost on. I have different reasons for that. My old shorties were rusty and my offroad H pipe had a big dent in it...so I figured I would replace it.
Midrange is the only real longtube advantage. It looks better on paper than it shows at the track from what I have seen. The upper rpm range is very very similar in longtube vs. shorty comparisons.
Shorty's usually make it louder compared to longtubes of the same primary diameter.
Longtubes create less ground clearance, possible starter heatsoak problems, harder to work around (clutch installs for one). More expensive. The inability to use your stock h pipe. Less emissions legally possible, which is crucial to states that give smog checks. Steering clearance problems. Harder to install for sure, usually requiring the engine to be lifted or tilted. Clutch cables are more likely to be weakened by exhaust heat. 02 extensions are possibly needed. I have heard of more interior heat...
Or shorties without these problems for about $400 dollars cheaper. Or you can spend $400 dollars more (if not more) to go .05 tenths faster at the drag strip. It's all in what you want and what you willing to give up.
I am getting longtubes by the way...almost on. I have different reasons for that. My old shorties were rusty and my offroad H pipe had a big dent in it...so I figured I would replace it.
Midrange is the only real longtube advantage. It looks better on paper than it shows at the track from what I have seen. The upper rpm range is very very similar in longtube vs. shorty comparisons.
Shorty's usually make it louder compared to longtubes of the same primary diameter.
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