Differential leak...

GDawg

GDawg

Founding Member
Mar 22, 2002
1,469
19
68
Nevada
#1
Tomorrow I'm taking my car in for a leak coming from my differential. The guy said it could be a pinion seal.

Is that a major deal? If it is a pinion seal and not just a gasket (that I assumed it would be) would replacing the pinion seal cost any real bucks? I don't want this guy taking me for a ride. I've left the car parked until I can get that taken care of.

Any opinions would be greatly appreciated.
 
#3
I had found out my car had a leak when I got it and it was the pinion seal. I went to the best Ford dealership around here and it was still only $100. Its not costly if you catch it early before it destroys your whole rear-end.
 
#5
I don't know what a dealer would charge to do it but my Son and I just did a pinion seal change on his '04 GT. The seal was only 5-6 bucks. His rear gear was set up without a crush sleeve using a spacer instead, with that it's just a matter of removing the Pinion Nut, changing the seal and torquing the Pinion Nut to spec.

If you have a stock type rear end set up you should change the crush sleeve when the Pinion Nut is removed. That is not that difficult to do just time consuming. All the shimming for the differential is just reused so no re-shimming is involved, you just have to remove the ring and pinion gear to get to the crush sleeve.
 
#6
hotrodnut said:
I don't know what a dealer would charge to do it but my Son and I just did a pinion seal change on his '04 GT. The seal was only 5-6 bucks. His rear gear was set up without a crush sleeve using a spacer instead, with that it's just a matter of removing the Pinion Nut, changing the seal and torquing the Pinion Nut to spec.

If you have a stock type rear end set up you should change the crush sleeve when the Pinion Nut is removed. That is not that difficult to do just time consuming. All the shimming for the differential is just reused so no re-shimming is involved, you just have to remove the ring and pinion gear to get to the crush sleeve.
Click to expand...
That is a lillte more involved than changing the seal.

04gtdrop: if the cover is leaking you can fix that yourself, very easy, need sealant, new fluid and a bottle of friction modifier. Just take the cover loose , leave the top bolt in but very loose pop the bottom loose to drain the fluid, clean all surfaces well, put sealant on cover, reinstall and fill with fluids.
 
#8
hotrodnut said:
I don't know what a dealer would charge to do it but my Son and I just did a pinion seal change on his '04 GT. The seal was only 5-6 bucks. His rear gear was set up without a crush sleeve using a spacer instead, with that it's just a matter of removing the Pinion Nut, changing the seal and torquing the Pinion Nut to spec.

If you have a stock type rear end set up you should change the crush sleeve when the Pinion Nut is removed. That is not that difficult to do just time consuming. All the shimming for the differential is just reused so no re-shimming is involved, you just have to remove the ring and pinion gear to get to the crush sleeve.
Click to expand...

No crush sleeve in 04s? when did that start. I've only been 8.8s up to 02.They all have them.
 
#9
forpit2000gt said:
That is a lillte more involved than changing the seal.
Click to expand...
Why is that? If you remove the Pinion Nut (which is required to get the old seal out), it is required to replace the crush sleeve or you do not get the proper pinion bearing pre-load. If anyone tells you they did different, they are lucky to not have had problems. :shrug:
 
#11
04gtdrop said:
i have the same issue, mine is leaking from the rear side of the Differential. can i fix this myself? is this a common prob? mine only has 22k on it.

under warrenty maybe?
Click to expand...
Sounds like yours is leaking from the cover. That's an easy fix. Do what forpit2000gt says.
 
#12
hotrodnut said:
Why is that? If you remove the Pinion Nut (which is required to get the old seal out), it is required to replace the crush sleeve or you do not get the proper pinion bearing pre-load. If anyone tells you they did different, they are lucky to not have had problems. :shrug:
Click to expand...

you are correct, I read one thing and was thinking another. Was thinking about replacing the bearing as well and that requires the pinion to be pulled. Sorry about the misquote. You are correct about the crush sleeve. We always replace when changing a seal. I have always had a car on a lift and a long pull bar to crush the sleeve. I can't imagine working off of jacks or stands to crush that thing.
where did you get a spacer? haven't ssen one.
 
#13
forpit2000gt said:
I can't imagine working off of jacks or stands to crush that thing.
where did you get a spacer? haven't ssen one.
Click to expand...
Yea, I have done some off jack stands and it's tough for sure. I also have a long bar to hold the pinion and have slipped a piece of steel pipe over the breaker bar to crush the sleeves, lol. When it's up on stands you don't get much rotation with each pull!

I got the spacer from DTS up in Michigan. http://www.drivetrainspecialists.com/categories/small-parts/products/product-1171.html
 
#14
I couldn't find much fluid on my garage floor but it was all over the rear cover of the pumpkin. So I'm probably just looking at ~$100. That's not too bad. I would do the gears right now but I'm unemployed so I have to hold off on all tempation to sink any unnecessary money into my car right now. I'm living off my savings currently and it's painful to see money going out and none coming in.

Thanks for the input guys! :nice:
 
#15
forpit2000gt: thanks for the heads up. Yeah my gears were JUST shipped out today. UPS says they will be here friday. I was going to wait and get the 31 spline axles and a torsen but i wouldnt have those until like november. So now that i have this leak i was thinking just pay to have the gears put in and do the axle and torsen later OR fix the seal now myself and hold off on the gears till i get my other parts. The shop that was going to do my gears said a flate rate of 400 bucks. I found another shop that sid just labor on gears would be 250. How does that sound to you guys?

I think i have lost a decent amount of fluid so i dont want to run the risk of blowing up my rear end if i wait. Just curious but, about how much fluid is in the diff? sorry for high jacking the thread....
 
#16
04gtdrop said:
forpit2000gt: thanks for the heads up. Yeah my gears were JUST shipped out today. UPS says they will be here friday. I was going to wait and get the 31 spline axles and a torsen but i wouldnt have those until like november. So now that i have this leak i was thinking just pay to have the gears put in and do the axle and torsen later OR fix the seal now myself and hold off on the gears till i get my other parts. The shop that was going to do my gears said a flate rate of 400 bucks. I found another shop that sid just labor on gears would be 250. How does that sound to you guys?

I think i have lost a decent amount of fluid so i dont want to run the risk of blowing up my rear end if i wait. Just curious but, about how much fluid is in the diff? sorry for high jacking the thread....
Click to expand...

That's alright about the highjack, at least it has substance and isn't just babble like another site I used to frequent. ;)
 
#17
ok, so i think i am going to try and fix this leak over the weekend. I am leaving for a short (110 mile) trip on sunday. So do you think it would be ok to fix this on sat? then drive a lonf distance like that? so in a nut shell all i need to do is drain it, clean the outside edge seal it and fill it up? any advise? has anyone done this before?
 
#20
i have a question here, the tag on the diff calls for 75-140 synthetic, so i bought valvoline synpower. on the bottle it says limites slip after the weight. and on the back it says its made especially for limited slip differentials. so i bought friction modifier from ford and used it too just to be safe. but do you have to use friction modifier with synth. fluid? i just re-sealed my cover because it was leaking, just to make sure i got enough permatex on there i put a bead on the inner and outer part of the cover and around all the bolt holes cause thats were it looked like they put it from the factory. is that right, im waiting til tomorrow to drive the car because the permatex says it takes 24 hours to completely cure.
 
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