Progress Thread Dirty Water Racing 89 Notch Project

Monkeybutt2000 said:

If you run a 26" tall tire,you will be real close to running out of gear at the end of a quarter mile. A 28" will help,but if you spray it no bueno. Not to downplay you,but ideally you want to cross the traps at you max rpm. There's calculators out there to help you choose the ideal rear gear.

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I'll live and I learn through trial, error and some.good info from y'all I'm sure. So used to trapping 140-150 just to get a low 10s pass, bogging the 60ft on stock axles.

I was ringing out the top of fourth in the 1/4 (stick car) that yeilded my best times, so I completely understand trying to be at top of the gear for best results. Still a learning curve with the C4 and RWD.

a91what said:

A well setup rwd car can easily cut a 1.4 60 and above 140mph you should be in the 9s

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I'm well aware. Seems like 60 foots are getting better and better for each platform every year. Better setups, slipper clutches, science for geometry going into suspension setups.
Just from watching cars run at World Cup Finals every year the progression is insane. (Not at that level I know) but eventually I'd like to be at that level. At least that's the goal.

Tough when ETs keep getting quicker and speeds keeps getting faster. The jump for entering WCF in 2018 to entering and licking in a spot in 2019 was incredible.

Got my toolbox back today.
Seat delete kit and rear TQ box kit came in as well. Held the rest of the stuff at FedEx for pickup. Can't have the wife seeing it all sitting on the doorstep lol.

Garage is slowly coming back. Wanted to guage some space for when the car is finally In The garage. Plenty of room 360° once the stuff on the sides are moved over to the other bay. Only issue will be pulling motors with the picker. May get a gantry style lift that I could potentially just push back over the table and toolbox. The welding table/station is going to replace that workbench in the corner. Easy access to the car if I need to fit something or just bring the torch over to it. With 4x4 spacer blocks and jack pads on the quick Jack's still had about a foot clearance on the ceiling.

I'd like to yank the motor out soon and see what it has going on in it. Reading some unliked info on the heads. Looks like some AFRs and a custom grind cam may be in my future Depending on what's inside will probably decide wether I stay NA with spray or build a turbo kit.
Also toyed around with assembling a dart block. Decisions, decisions.

Until then I'll probably start buying some materials to build the non powerplant specific stuff.
- Alum Fuel tank supplies for the trunk, fittings etc
(Already have a draw full of alumin weld AN fittings and fuel cell related parts that was going into the Mazda)
- Fuel hoses and fittings
- Order some materials to make some catch cans and coolant overflow canister.
- Some electrical stuff, raychem heat shrink rolls and other stuff to redo the harnesses and electrical. Add any extra sensors in while I have it opened up.

Half the goods are in, waiting for a few other things (boxes) to trickle in from stuff being backordered. I have another long night tonight in dispatch at work so odds are I'll be bored and order more stuff

Didn't get the motor yanked on the car yet but I yanked a 4' deep block of concrete out of the ground so we could get our new fence installed at the house

89 Saleen#455 said:

Hey Shed. Welcome aboard from a fellow Stangnet neighbor a couple towns away. Great build and love the Dirty Water Racing name and logo.

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Thank you, anyone local that ever needs any help y'all are welcome to stop by. I have about 15yrs of equipment and tools that I retired when I started on the Local FD. My cousin and I started DWR program after years of doing alot of custom Fabrication and drag car builds along with our own builds. We are building his 6.0 Swapped turbo LS Nissan S14, a 6.0 Turbo LS 68 Malibu and a few other small projects.

Steel1 said:

Who knew you could do that with an engine hoist.
I imagine that concrete was for a basketball hoop , bet that sucker was rock solid !

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It was lol. Previous owners had this hoop there. Guess they run around 7-800$. Who knew? Used to playing with a milk crate nailed to an electrical pole lol

Some more stuff trickling in. Seat mount and brackets. Ring and pinion, brake conversion rotors and drums (surprised the front LMR "no name kit" is actually Stoptech Brand. I've always been a big fan of Stoptech products)

Got some supplies to build a remote USB location for the serial cable. Male to female bulkhead assembly. Started stocking up on electrical supplies for a harness refresh.

Probably going to order a Hardwire Electronics PDM15 and Blink Marine Keypad this week.
If I can make it all work through CAN the MS3 will stay if not I may find another ECU that will. But I am pretty confident we can get it to work.
(Might wait till the holidays come around to start ordering more stuff)

House is finally nearing completion on the interior, ready to get the car into the garage and start tearing it down.

No new updates.

Tl;dr
Decided to stay with the 331 unless something else falls in my lap
Twin turbo setup
AFR heads
Lots of winter fun

Making a list and checking it twice for the holidays to start ordering parts again. I've made the final decision to stay with the 331 unless I get a killer deal that passes by on a dart block.

Also decided to go turbo, x2. Going to pick up an LS top/forward twin header kit, chop the flanges and weld on some hi port SBF flanges as I plan on picking up some AFR 185 heads Run VS racing mirrored 67/62s. Feel like this setup,.heads exhaust etc. will be good to grow into in the future as well.

I pretty much have all the sensors and everything from lowdollermotorsports.com that I already had from the Mazda to go turbo on the mustang, map sensor, electronic boost solenoids, Vaccum boost lines and accessories. Have a large stock of 3" aluminum tubing that was going to be used in making the charge system for the Mazda. Will run a 2 in, 1 out style intercooler or ice box I will fabricate myself as well.

Should be a fun winter for sure

Monkeybutt2000 said:

Plug clearance looks nil on those headers........

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Asked around on the internet about people running them and the plug clearance. Few people commented. Said they had no issues. Guess we will find out. At the price point they are worth grabbing to check while the engine is still in the car atm. If they aren't going to work then it's easy enough to return them.

Been slowly making a build worksheet. links, PDFs, etc. Keep circling back to the CoP setup.

@a91what was it you that was going back and forth with the setup for GM or LS coils?

At the moment it seems like the best route is going to be the explorer cam sensor, fabricated bracket and cherry bomb sensor with 32-1 wheel on the crank. I already have the sensor from the cam kits i had from the mazda. Then just a matter of power, signal and ground distribution for the coils. Stinger coil harness kit is nice, the dilema now is make my own harness or just grab a PnP harness. I've also seen mixed info about having to run at least a 70a relay or a smaller on both banks.

Or just bite the bullet and grab the Holley Cam sensor, trigger wheel, harness and coils. Vender pricing on the holley stuff isnt too bad but its still the more expensive option. The sloppy fabricator side of me wants to go budget. Decisions, decisions.