Disappointing Dyno Numbers 93 Cobra

Here is the dyno sheet.
 

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We made 275RWHP with our near stock 93 Cobra, Crane 2031 cam, mildly cleaned up stock cast iron GT40's Extrude honed Cobra intake, stock TB, 83mm MAF, full exhaust and full emissions, cats, etc...
 
BAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!



excessive motorsports, thats why...... you prolly got a set of gt40y heads on it, and got charged for afr.......


if it is a mustang dynom your still way low. go run it at the track, and weigh it. see if those numbers look better......


fwiw, i dynod a stock w catback only 95 cobra, and it makes your numbers look poor..... 245/290 with only 10* of timing, and a stock airfilter.......eventually did 266/303 with ALL the bolt ons without removing the valve covers.
 
better tune, try again, my friend went to one of those on truck dyno's and got 35 less hp to the wheels than what he got at an in house dyno, just bring it somewhere else. was your ac on...
 
what kind of dyno did you get tuned on. a mustang dyno will give way lower #s than a dynojet. My stock longblock made 248hp & 290tq.(SAE) on the dynjet. On the mustang dyno it would have been more like 220hp and 260tq. If you had your car tuned on a mustang dyno find a dynojet and pay for a couple of pulls and compare.
 
the reason the difference is so large is because on the mustang dyno you enter the vehicle weight with driver and a drag coefficient at 50 mph. In other words, a real world load on the motor. On a dynojet there is a brake applied to the drum to put resistance on it, but it is the same resistance the entire way through the rpm range.
 
Are you still using the stock Cobra computer? It pulls a lot of timing out up top, not the best for making good power.

We ran the 2031 and it was made for the 1.7, very smooth and we made 425/465 with an A-trim on the combo.
 
This may not be the case BUT.......
I worked on a dyno-jet dyno for two years and if all the info isn't entered into the computer correctly the numbers will be out of whack.
We would play with the numbers when a ricer would come in we would make the reading high like 400rwhp and then let him down when we set it up correctly. 85rwhp :rlaugh: :rlaugh: :rlaugh:

With a dyno it is just as accurate as its opperator.

The best dyno is good traction at the track. Nothing is more real than an actual run.

Use this formula Vehicle Weight x speed squared divided by 10,000 x e.t. equals rwhp.

This is as real as it gets. Every factor is accounted for and this is the actual hp being put to the ground. This is actually more scientificly correct than the best dyno. This even includes wind drag on the car. The figure will be the exact hp it takes to move a car of its shape and weight a certain distance in a certain amount of time at a certain speed.