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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
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Disconect Coolant Temp. Switch-Car runs 100% better

  • Thread starter Thread starter f6cobra
  • Start date Start date Mar 29, 2004
F

f6cobra

Member
Feb 24, 2004
38
0
6
Mar 29, 2004
#1
  • Mar 29, 2004
  • #1
So I did the maf conversion a little while back. When i first did it the car ran sort of crapy. Stalling surging and a real bad hesitation. Had a buddy adjust the tps and idle/set screw. It was better, but not great. The stalling is gone but the surging is not. Since i had it "in" for the winter i did not drive it that much. Now i want to and the surging is driving me nuts. I read a lot of the other forums and so I spent all day cleaning the TB and Idle Air Control Valve and also the egr vavle. It did not seem to make that much of a difference. I then remembered that with the directions for the MAF conversion it said to disconnect one of the hoses from that vaccum block or whatever on the drivers side of the car. It was the second hose from the left. I had done this earlier and it did not seem to make a difference. I then tried blocking it and the surging seemed to go away. But during driving it seemed like it was starving for fuel or air. I left the port open and it ran like it did before, with a hesitation. I then remember someone telling me that if you disconnect the Coolant temp switch (the one for the computer) it will make the computer think the car is cold all the time, therefore giving it more fuel. Anyway I disconected it and the car feels like it gained about 25hp. Thats not real acurate but it ran a heck of a lot better and was much snapper and faster. Should i keep it disconected? Why is it running like this? Why do I keep typing? Can anyone help?
 

Look Its Aaron

Your car looks like it came straight from Mexico.
Founding Member
Nov 18, 2001
2,634
0
48
Fontana, Cali
Mar 29, 2004
#2
  • Mar 29, 2004
  • #2
dude you have a huge vaccum leak! Block up all the lines that run to that tree or make sure they are being used properly. Who ever told you to have a vaccum leak on purpose is a damn moron.

You are getting a lot of unmetered air into your chambers, which means you need more fuel. Now that your car is running rich it is giving you more fuel causing you to think that its runs better.

NO VACCUM LEAKS!
 

Stump1000

New Member
Apr 5, 2003
495
0
0
Morristown Tn
Mar 29, 2004
#3
  • Mar 29, 2004
  • #3
Yeah.. i agree. Do you still have a vacuum line hooked to your map sensor? I dont think you should anymore.
 

larrendeuce

Member
Sep 13, 2003
649
1
19
Southern NJ
Mar 29, 2004
#4
  • Mar 29, 2004
  • #4
Is your BAP sensor connected to a vacuum line? On speed density cars it is used as a manifold air pressure sensor(MAP), on a mass air car it is a Barametric Air Pressure sensor(BAP). It is the same thing. Having it connected to a vacuum line on a mass air car will give a ton of problems.
 
F

f6cobra

Member
Feb 24, 2004
38
0
6
Mar 30, 2004
#5
  • Mar 30, 2004
  • #5
Ok guys figured it out. I think. I did disconnect the hose going to the MAP sensor but I pluged both ends-that is the hose and the sensor. I guess your supposed to leave the MAP end open. So I did that and then realized-I ALSO took of a cap that was on the vaccum tree on the drivers side. The port that is second from the left. I didnt see any hose that was supposed to go to it so i think it just gets blocked off??? Could one of you guys confirm this for me? Anyways did all of that set the idle/stop screw lower and re adjusted the tps. Also reconnected the coolant temp switch and she runs like a dream. That is until i get my heads and cam!

It seems alright for now so thank you guys for your responses. Really appretiate it. Looks like I should go back to school before I BREAK somthing on my car though.
 
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