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distributor

  • Thread starter Thread starter 72gs455
  • Start date Start date Mar 18, 2018
7

72gs455

Member
Jun 16, 2017
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Mar 18, 2018
#1
  • Mar 18, 2018
  • #1
okay i finally put the heads on my 302 now the final step is the distributor. I have never installed one i got the engine at top dead center and have the rotor pointing at cylinder #1 does this look right? sorry for the rookie questions hopefully this baby fires up tomorrow
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
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Mar 18, 2018
#2
  • Mar 18, 2018
  • #2
Thats not where #1 is on my distributor, is that pointing where #1 plug wire is?
 
7

72gs455

Member
Jun 16, 2017
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5
13
Mar 18, 2018
#3
  • Mar 18, 2018
  • #3
karthief said:
Thats not where #1 is on my distributor, is that pointing where #1 plug wire is?
Click to expand...
Yes it’s pointing to the #1 plug/cylinder
 

Mstng93SSP

You have a nice rear end there Dave.
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#4
  • Mar 18, 2018
  • #4
If you are looking at it like a clock, it is currently pointing at about 10 o'clock, it should be at about 11 o'clock if that makes sense.
 
Reactions: Rich2279
7

72gs455

Member
Jun 16, 2017
28
5
13
Mar 18, 2018
#5
  • Mar 18, 2018
  • #5
Mstng93SSP said:
If you are looking at it like a clock, it is currently pointing at about 10 o'clock, it should be at about 11 o'clock if that makes sense.
Click to expand...
makes complete sense thanks
 

jrichker

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#6
  • Mar 19, 2018
  • #6
72gs455 said:
okay i finally put the heads on my 302 now the final step is the distributor. I have never installed one i got the engine at top dead center and have the rotor pointing at cylinder #1 does this look right? sorry for the rookie questions hopefully this baby fires up tomorrow
Click to expand...
Putting the distributor back in and setting the timing.



Revised 15-Apr-2016 to add fix for TFI hitting the thermostat housing while trying to set the base timing at 14°.



You can forget about anything beyond this point if you don't have access to a timing light. You will never get the timing set right without one.



Note: If you don't have access to a timing light, most of the larger auto parts stores will rent or loan one if you have a credit card or leave a cash deposit.







Putting the distributor back in is fairly simple. Pull #1 sparkplug, put your finger in the sparkplug hole, crank the engine until you feel compression. Then line up the TDC mark on the balancer with the pointer on the engine block.



The distributor starts out with the #1 plug wire lined up at about 12:00 with you facing it. Align the rotor to about 11:00, since it will turn clockwise as it slides into place.



Align the distributor rotor up with the #1 position marked on the cap, slide the distributor down into the block, (you may have to wiggle the rotor slightly to get the gear to engage) and then note where the rotor is pointing.

If it still lines up with #1 position on the cap, install the clamp and bolt. If not, pull it out and turn 1 tooth forwards or backwards and try again. Put the #1 spark plug back in and tighten it down, put the clamp on the distributor, but don't tighten it too much, as you will have to move the distributor to set the timing. Note that there is no such thing as one tooth off on a 5.0 Mustang if you follow the spark plug wire order on the distributor cap. If it doesn't align perfectly with #1 position, you can turn the distributor until it does. The only problem is that if you are too far one way or the other, you can't turn the distributor enough to get the 10-14 degree optimum timing range. If the TFI prevents the distributor from being turned enough to get 14°, there is a simple fix. Pull the distributor out and turn the rotor 1 tooth counterclockwise Don't move the wires from the positions shown on the cap on fuel injected engines!!!! The #1 position cast into the cap MUST have the spark plug wire for #1 cylinder in it. Do it differently and the timing for the fuel injectors will be off. The computer uses the PIP sensor to time injector operation by sensing the wide slot in the PIP sensor shutter wheel. If the injector timing of #1 and the firing of #1 do not occur at the right time, the injector timing for all other cylinders will be affected.



Setting the timing:

Paint the mark on the harmonic balancer with paint -choose 10 degrees BTC or 14 degrees BTC or something else if you have NO2 or other power adder. I try to paint TDC red, 10 degrees BTC white and 14 degrees BTC blue.



10 degrees BTC is towards the drivers side marks.



Note: setting the timing beyond the 10 degree mark will give you a little more low speed acceleration. BUT you will need to run 93 octane to avoid pinging and engine damage. Pinging is very hard to hear at full throttle, so it could be present and you would not hear it.



Simplified diagram of what it looks like. Not all the marks are shown for ease of viewing.



ATC ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' '!' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' BTC

---------------- > Direction of Rotation as viewed standing in front of the engine.



The ' is 2 degrees.

The ! is TDC

The ' is 10 degrees BTC

Set the timing 5 marks BTC. Or if you prefer, 5 marks towards the driver's side to get 10 degrees.



To get 14 degrees, set it 7 marks BTC. Or if you prefer, 7 marks towards the driver's side to get 14 degrees.



The paint marks you make are your friends if you do it correctly. They are much easier to see than the marks machined into the harmonic balancer hub.



At this point hook up all the wires, get out the timing light. Connect timing light up to battery & #1 spark plug. Then start the engine.



Remove the SPOUT connector (do a search if you want a picture of the SPOUT connector) It is the 2 pin rectangular plug on the distributor wiring harness. Only the EFI Mustang engines have a SPOUT. If yours is not EFI, check for a SPOUT: if you don’t find one, skip any instructions regarding the SPOUT

Warning: there are only two places the SPOUT should be when you time the engine. The first place is in your pocket while you are setting the timing and the second is back in the harness when you finish. The little bugger is too easy to lose and too hard to find a replacement.



Start engine, loosen distributor hold down with a 1/2" universal socket. Shine the timing light on the marks and turn the distributor until the mark lines up with the edge of the timing pointer. Tighten down the distributor hold down bolt, Replace the SPOUT connector and you are done.



The HO firing order is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8.

Non HO firing order is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8



 
7

72gs455

Member
Jun 16, 2017
28
5
13
Mar 19, 2018
#7
  • Mar 19, 2018
  • #7
jrichker said:
Putting the distributor back in and setting the timing.



Revised 15-Apr-2016 to add fix for TFI hitting the thermostat housing while trying to set the base timing at 14°.



You can forget about anything beyond this point if you don't have access to a timing light. You will never get the timing set right without one.



Note: If you don't have access to a timing light, most of the larger auto parts stores will rent or loan one if you have a credit card or leave a cash deposit.







Putting the distributor back in is fairly simple. Pull #1 sparkplug, put your finger in the sparkplug hole, crank the engine until you feel compression. Then line up the TDC mark on the balancer with the pointer on the engine block.



The distributor starts out with the #1 plug wire lined up at about 12:00 with you facing it. Align the rotor to about 11:00, since it will turn clockwise as it slides into place.



Align the distributor rotor up with the #1 position marked on the cap, slide the distributor down into the block, (you may have to wiggle the rotor slightly to get the gear to engage) and then note where the rotor is pointing.

If it still lines up with #1 position on the cap, install the clamp and bolt. If not, pull it out and turn 1 tooth forwards or backwards and try again. Put the #1 spark plug back in and tighten it down, put the clamp on the distributor, but don't tighten it too much, as you will have to move the distributor to set the timing. Note that there is no such thing as one tooth off on a 5.0 Mustang if you follow the spark plug wire order on the distributor cap. If it doesn't align perfectly with #1 position, you can turn the distributor until it does. The only problem is that if you are too far one way or the other, you can't turn the distributor enough to get the 10-14 degree optimum timing range. If the TFI prevents the distributor from being turned enough to get 14°, there is a simple fix. Pull the distributor out and turn the rotor 1 tooth counterclockwise Don't move the wires from the positions shown on the cap on fuel injected engines!!!! The #1 position cast into the cap MUST have the spark plug wire for #1 cylinder in it. Do it differently and the timing for the fuel injectors will be off. The computer uses the PIP sensor to time injector operation by sensing the wide slot in the PIP sensor shutter wheel. If the injector timing of #1 and the firing of #1 do not occur at the right time, the injector timing for all other cylinders will be affected.



Setting the timing:

Paint the mark on the harmonic balancer with paint -choose 10 degrees BTC or 14 degrees BTC or something else if you have NO2 or other power adder. I try to paint TDC red, 10 degrees BTC white and 14 degrees BTC blue.



10 degrees BTC is towards the drivers side marks.



Note: setting the timing beyond the 10 degree mark will give you a little more low speed acceleration. BUT you will need to run 93 octane to avoid pinging and engine damage. Pinging is very hard to hear at full throttle, so it could be present and you would not hear it.



Simplified diagram of what it looks like. Not all the marks are shown for ease of viewing.



ATC ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' '!' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' BTC

---------------- > Direction of Rotation as viewed standing in front of the engine.



The ' is 2 degrees.

The ! is TDC

The ' is 10 degrees BTC

Set the timing 5 marks BTC. Or if you prefer, 5 marks towards the driver's side to get 10 degrees.



To get 14 degrees, set it 7 marks BTC. Or if you prefer, 7 marks towards the driver's side to get 14 degrees.



The paint marks you make are your friends if you do it correctly. They are much easier to see than the marks machined into the harmonic balancer hub.



At this point hook up all the wires, get out the timing light. Connect timing light up to battery & #1 spark plug. Then start the engine.



Remove the SPOUT connector (do a search if you want a picture of the SPOUT connector) It is the 2 pin rectangular plug on the distributor wiring harness. Only the EFI Mustang engines have a SPOUT. If yours is not EFI, check for a SPOUT: if you don’t find one, skip any instructions regarding the SPOUT

Warning: there are only two places the SPOUT should be when you time the engine. The first place is in your pocket while you are setting the timing and the second is back in the harness when you finish. The little bugger is too easy to lose and too hard to find a replacement.



Start engine, loosen distributor hold down with a 1/2" universal socket. Shine the timing light on the marks and turn the distributor until the mark lines up with the edge of the timing pointer. Tighten down the distributor hold down bolt, Replace the SPOUT connector and you are done.



The HO firing order is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8.

Non HO firing order is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8



Click to expand...
Okay so do I start the car with the distributor at 0tdc or do I hand crank to -10 or is all the adjustment going to be done with the timing light?
 

jrichker

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#8
  • Mar 19, 2018
  • #8
72gs455 said:
Okay so do I start the car with the distributor at 0tdc or do I hand crank to -10 or is all the adjustment going to be done with the timing light?
Click to expand...
The plan is to stab the distributor as best you can to line up as described in the tech note so that the engine starts and runs.Then use the timing light to set the timing where you want it - 10, 12° or 14°.
 

mikestang63

SN Certified Technician
Aug 27, 2012
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Mar 19, 2018
#9
  • Mar 19, 2018
  • #9
take that breather element off the valve cover vent tube and put the tube back on that goes from the VC to the throttle body
 
Reactions: Deleted member 215073, General karthief and 88LXSleeper
W

Wayfastxl1250

Member
Jan 28, 2018
6
1
13
Mar 19, 2018
#10
  • Mar 19, 2018
  • #10
Also, make sure you're on the right stroke it's in between the intake valve closing and exhaust opening. And hope no one put a 302 non h.o cam in lol. That was a headache to figure out. I must have retimed it 15 times before pulling the driver side valve cover.
 
7

72gs455

Member
Jun 16, 2017
28
5
13
Mar 19, 2018
#11
  • Mar 19, 2018
  • #11
Okay to fully understand I’ve marked the balancer 0tdc -10 -14 I got the distributors rotor pointing at the 11 o’clock position got the wires hooked up next step? Fire it up and time it?
 

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General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
27,826
10,507
203
polk county florida
Mar 19, 2018
#12
  • Mar 19, 2018
  • #12
Yup
 
W

Wayfastxl1250

Member
Jan 28, 2018
6
1
13
Mar 19, 2018
#13
  • Mar 19, 2018
  • #13
Don't forget to pull the spout when you time it. You should be able to start it. If it doesn't start, I've used the timing light with a remote starter to see where the timing is. If it still doesn't start and the timing is right, or it runs terrible and dies it's probably 180 degrees off.
 
7

72gs455

Member
Jun 16, 2017
28
5
13
Mar 19, 2018
#14
  • Mar 19, 2018
  • #14
Alright guys thanks will post to see what happens
 
7

72gs455

Member
Jun 16, 2017
28
5
13
Mar 19, 2018
#15
  • Mar 19, 2018
  • #15
Update the car fired up right away only thing is it was idleing around 2k and was hearing a ticking noise don’t have time right next w since I’m heading out to work but feed back would be nice
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
27,826
10,507
203
polk county florida
Mar 20, 2018
#16
  • Mar 20, 2018
  • #16
The high idle could be a vacuum leak, tb screw miss adjusted, the ticking noise could be a rocker arm adjustment, sticky valve.
At the top of the 5.0 tech page there is 5.0 tech/tips thread that is very helpful with these problems, one in particular is the surging idle checklist, this will cover checking for vacuum leaks, base idle reset procedure and other problems and how to fix them. Knowledgeable members contributed to the thread giving us access to their vast amount of experience.
 
7

72gs455

Member
Jun 16, 2017
28
5
13
Mar 20, 2018
#17
  • Mar 20, 2018
  • #17
Here’s the noise I was talking about
View: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=cNLfNkJ4jcg
 
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