DO I HAVE A BLOWN HEAD GASKET?

[88dragtop]

If it were me I wouldn't run the motor any more until you could do a leak down or compression test to narrow the problem. Running it with the milkshake can toast your bearings quick. It could be HG, intake gasket, or maybe even the dreaded crack Doing some of these diagnostic checks will help narrow it down otherwise it's just internet guess work. If you don't have access to compression testers try pulling the plugs and look for odd colored plugs, usually look all white from antifreeze.

Also,
don't use felpro 1250, it doesn't fit the 289 heads front water port well, atleast not mine. Not sure on the HG's but I'm pretty sure the old heads have a hole in the middle of each cylinder bore that the newer motors don't.

 

[D.Hearne]

I'm confused by the statement above. If you recently went from 2bbl to 4bbl, they the shop would have to replace the intake manifold. How much did they charge you for time on the work order? If it was just a carb swap, it should be no more than 1 hour.
.

I guess you've never run across Trans-Dapt's and other's 2 bbl to 4 bbl carb adapters. I have one in my shop and saw another saturday when I checked out a Mustang II for sale. The seller put a Holley 4 bbl carb on the Stang II's 2.8 V6 using one. More than likely, the car needed a new carb and when they was the price for the O.E. 2 bbl, this was a cheaper solution.

 

[jcode68]

Yeah, that is probably the case. I have seen them before, just didn't come to mind.

 

[66nathen]

I guess you've never run across Trans-Dapt's and other's 2 bbl to 4 bbl carb adapters. I have one in my shop and saw another saturday when I checked out a Mustang II for sale. The seller put a Holley 4 bbl carb on the Stang II's 2.8 V6 using one. More than likely, the car needed a new carb and when they was the price for the O.E. 2 bbl, this was a cheaper solution.

yah...have an adaptor....the shop said the same thing, then they saw it....

 

[66nathen]

If it were me I wouldn't run the motor any more until you could do a leak down or compression test to narrow the problem. Running it with the milkshake can toast your bearings quick. It could be HG, intake gasket, or maybe even the dreaded crack Doing some of these diagnostic checks will help narrow it down otherwise it's just internet guess work. If you don't have access to compression testers try pulling the plugs and look for odd colored plugs, usually look all white from antifreeze.

Also,
don't use felpro 1250, it doesn't fit the 289 heads front water port well, atleast not mine. Not sure on the HG's but I'm pretty sure the old heads have a hole in the middle of each cylinder bore that the newer motors don't.

yah im going to go get a kit asap...is the test fairly easy to do? a breakdown of what to do would help alot. sounds easy tho. any number thats looks off from the other 7 is the one that blew right?....

 

[66nathen]

I'm confused by the statement above. If you recently went from 2bbl to 4bbl, they the shop would have to replace the intake manifold. How much did they charge you for time on the work order? If it was just a carb swap, it should be no more than 1 hour.

As far as swapping the head gaskets yourself, you should be aware of what you are about to get into. I'm not trying to talk you out of this, but you should get a reality check. Doing the swap involves removing the distributor, intake manifold, rocker arms & push rods, the exhaust manifold and then finally the head. While taking it apart is fairly simple (assuming you don't run into a rusty head bolt and break one) the reassembly requires some knowledge. For example, you will need to adjust the rocker arms for the proper lash. If you get this wrong, the engine will not perform properly, develop a ticking noise or could bend a rod. The only other difficulties are proper gasket/sealing on intake and setting the timing. Again, I don't want to talk you out of this, but given your experience level, you would be far better off getting someone who knows the drill to work with you on this so you can learn without the expense and headache of potentially causing new problems.

advice well taken. im a young college student so any screw ups i make would be very very bad. I had already decided to take it somewhere after i read over the process in chiltons. I knew I could take it all apart, but i dont have the mechanical aptitude to put it all together mistake free......well i dont have the experience yet...ill have plenty of time to catch up to you guys. all of everyones advice and help is much appriciated tho!

 

[66nathen]

how long should a mechanic at a shop who specializes in classics take to do this process? 5 hrs? I dont want to get hustled for my money.

 

[351carlo]

Definitely head gasket or cracked block. Seeing as the motor is not quite an all out racer, I'd go with the former.

As already stated it won't cost you much at all to do it yourself and the job IS very easy on a small block. I think 5-6 hours wouldn't be reasonable for a shop to charge, depending on how much stuff you have on top of your motor.

Personally I could probably have the job done in under two hours. Find a decent classic car shop. Don't drive the car there. Don't drive the car at all. Don't start the motor.

 

[66nathen]

Definitely head gasket or cracked block. Seeing as the motor is not quite an all out racer, I'd go with the former.

As already stated it won't cost you much at all to do it yourself and the job IS very easy on a small block. I think 5-6 hours wouldn't be reasonable for a shop to charge, depending on how much stuff you have on top of your motor.

Personally I could probably have the job done in under two hours. Find a decent classic car shop. Don't drive the car there. Don't drive the car at all. Don't start the motor.

yeup, found a place that should be good. they do towing too. to do a compression test doesnt the motor have to be running?...

 

[351carlo]

No. Compression tests are done by cranking the motor over without starting it.