Do these pictures suggest only a blown intake gasket?

[auto.pilot]

I've got a Ford Racing 302 crate motor in my 1966 Mustang. It's been sitting for about 3 years. I realize now it was a stupid thing to do but I charged the battery and jumped in it for about a 50 mile drive. It began to blow significant white smoke out of the driver side exhaust. Thinking this was likely a blown head gasket I started to tear it down this evening. I haven't removed the plugs yet but wonder if what is showing in these pictures might be only a blown intake gasket. there is a significant amount of white goo on the underside of the intake manifold but there was very little under the valve covers.

Ideally I would like to install new intake gaskets and leave the head gaskets alone.

I would appreciate any thoughts.

 

[stormsedge]

Did you lose coolant during this episode? I'd pull and inspect the plugs, drain the oil for a look, and maybe run a compression check since it's apart. If those check out okay, throw the intake on it with another gasket and chalk it up to moisture collecting over the period of storage.

 

[08GT500]

Hi,
Was the motor already broken-in, rings seated, have some mileage on it? Did you retorque the Intake post-install? They will settle at first, over a day two.
Determining whether the head gaskets are affected boils (no pun intended) down to performing a few tests.
IMO, #1) As it’s a large amount of coolant now in your oil, suggestion is to quickly eradicate it to preserve the Crank & Rod, Cam Bearings. Time increases the actions of the oxidizers inherent in glycol based coolant, glycolic acid, oxalic acid, formic acid & carbonic acid, pitting the clad surfaces of the bearing(s) lead/tin overlay, leading to accelerated failure. Will also begin to rust surfaces.
Absorb the mess in the valley, under covers with rags. The next is the cost of 2 oil changes, a small price to pay.
Dump oil/pull filter, add new detergent Oil/OE filter & spin the pump drive with a hex socket extension on a drill while slowly rotating the Crank a few degrees, dump that oil/filter & replace.
Troubleshoot the once you do the above, it will require rotating the motor, don’t want to do that at this point.
How hot did the motor get before this occurred? (Gauge will be inaccurate if not immersed in coolant as levels dropped).
Good luck
-John

 

[auto.pilot]

Yes. Coolant all drained during this time. I appreciate your suggestions.

 

[auto.pilot]

Hi,
Was the motor already broken-in, rings seated, have some mileage on it? Did you retorque the Intake post-install? They will settle at first, over a day two.
Determining whether the head gaskets are affected boils (no pun intended) down to performing a few tests.
IMO, #1) As it’s a large amount of coolant now in your oil, suggestion is to quickly eradicate it to preserve the Crank & Rod, Cam Bearings. Time increases the actions of the oxidizers inherent in glycol based coolant, glycolic acid, oxalic acid, formic acid & carbonic acid, pitting the clad surfaces of the bearing(s) lead/tin overlay, leading to accelerated failure. Will also begin to rust surfaces.
Absorb the mess in the valley, under covers with rags. The next is the cost of 2 oil changes, a small price to pay.
Dump oil/pull filter, add new detergent Oil/OE filter & spin the pump drive with a hex socket extension on a drill while slowly rotating the Crank a few degrees, dump that oil/filter & replace.
Troubleshoot the once you do the above, it will require rotating the motor, don’t want to do that at this point.
How hot did the motor get before this occurred? (Gauge will be inaccurate if not immersed in coolant as levels dropped).
Good luck
The engine was put in the car over 10 years ago, but rarely driven since. I appreciate your suggestions. Very good advice.