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Does a high flow water pump really make a difference

  • Thread starter Thread starter vnmsgt
  • Start date Start date Nov 10, 2006

vnmsgt

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Oct 20, 2003
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Nov 10, 2006
#1
  • Nov 10, 2006
  • #1
I just ordered a electric fan from a Mark VIII to install while I am fixing a valve on one of my heads and am wondering before I put the motor back together if a high flow water pump really makes a difference. I have only 800 miles on this motor before I bent a valve from overrevving so my water pump is new but stock and I do have a cooling problem. Thats why I am trying the new fan instead of the stock one. Any help please.
 
D

Deleted member 87397

Nov 10, 2006
#2
  • Nov 10, 2006
  • #2
You might as well upgrade it if you have the time and money. Especially if you have a built motor.
 

Glaze

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Apr 3, 2005
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Gainesville, GA
Nov 10, 2006
#3
  • Nov 10, 2006
  • #3
Yes it can if paired with the proper size radiator/fan. But expect a slight drop in horsepower.

How was the clutch on the old fan?
 

vnmsgt

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Oct 20, 2003
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Nov 10, 2006
#4
  • Nov 10, 2006
  • #4
Glaze said:
Yes it can if paired with the proper size radiator/fan. But expect a slight drop in horsepower.

How was the clutch on the old fan?
Click to expand...
The clutch is fine. Its just if I try and go downtown to cruise and I get caught in a couple of lights my temp shoots up to 205-210 like nothing and will keep climbing if I do not find some open road. I have a 3 row heavy duty truck radiator in it and am going to try the electric cooling fan I bought. This is also with the a/c condensor taken off from in front of the radiator.
 

Glaze

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Apr 3, 2005
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Nov 10, 2006
#5
  • Nov 10, 2006
  • #5
seems odd. is this radiator used or purchased new? How old. Reason im asking is that partially clogged radiators are of course inefficient.

I know that every engine is different as friend of mine had a 302 that never ran over 160 (very little heat in winter time!). Possibly with your power adder and mods maybe your A/F ratio or timing is not correct causing it to overheat? What do you think?

Also how is oil pressure and flow? Accurate gauges for both water and oil?
 

vnmsgt

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#6
  • Nov 10, 2006
  • #6
Glaze said:
seems odd. is this radiator used or purchased new? How old. Reason im asking is that partially clogged radiators are of course inefficient.

I know that every engine is different as friend of mine had a 302 that never ran over 160 (very little heat in winter time!). Possibly with your power adder and mods maybe your A/F ratio or timing is not correct causing it to overheat? What do you think?

Also how is oil pressure and flow? Accurate gauges for both water and oil?
Click to expand...
Radiator was used but everything was fine until I installed the supercharger. Then I have the overheating problem. The car is setup to run on the rich side and my timing is stock at 10 degrees. My oil pressure is monitored with the stock gauge and water temp is with a autometer. Oil flow should be fine with the motor new and all the oil gally's and passageways in the block were coated for better flow.
 
E

El_CUCUY

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Nov 10, 2006
#7
  • Nov 10, 2006
  • #7
I had the same problem with my car i would cruise down the strip and the temp would start to creep up so i got a fluidyne rad and it made a little diff. It wasn't till i heard a noise coming from my water pump that i replaced it and i replaced it with an edelbrock high flow and it made a huge diff. Waterpump went bad when the pulley got loose

This is the one i got :
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=EDL%2D8840&N=700+400065+4294924500+4294838996+4294908331+115&autoview=sku

And this is with a small e fan
 

vnmsgt

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Nov 10, 2006
#8
  • Nov 10, 2006
  • #8
I will have to look into that. I just always thought the main sources for cooling the car are the radiator and fan. I used to think the high flow pumps would not help that much in cooling due to the fact that they are movine water alot faster and if coolant does not stay in radiator long enough it will not have time to cool enough and hot coolant will go back into the motor and heat up more. I had that problem once before when I removed the thermostat completely for one of my older stangs and had to put it back in for that exact reason of flowing to fast with no restriction.
 

Glaze

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Apr 3, 2005
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Nov 10, 2006
#9
  • Nov 10, 2006
  • #9
rgr but id still inspect the radiator closer. Might want to have it flow tested. Is there any corrision inside tanks? I know you didnt have any problems before supercharger, but once you did any flow weak links in cooling system will and did show. Just dont want you to go to all the trouble and money with water pump if you didnt have to.
 

vnmsgt

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Nov 10, 2006
#10
  • Nov 10, 2006
  • #10
Glaze said:
rgr but id still inspect the radiator closer. Might want to have it flow tested. Is there any corrision inside tanks? I know you didnt have any problems before supercharger, but once you did any flow weak links in cooling system will and did show. Just dont want you to go to all the trouble and money with water pump if you didnt have to.
Click to expand...
Where would I get the radiator flow tested or can I do that myself? Never done it before.
 

Glaze

New Member
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Gainesville, GA
Nov 10, 2006
#11
  • Nov 10, 2006
  • #11
on another thought, if the radiator is indeed fine the extra capicity waterpump will make more use of the larger radiator.

sorry english cud b beter
 

Glaze

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#12
  • Nov 10, 2006
  • #12
There is a measurement. Like how much flows out per minute once you fill it up. If you have a radiator/ac shop in your area they should be able to test it for you.

Im pretty picky on radiators since all my cars have been used and abused that ive purchased. Just about everyone of them had dirty corrioded radiators and once cleaned (or replaced) ran a whole bunch cooler.

If your rad has a little corrision inside (get flashlight and look at flat tubes inside the tank), id pull out radiatior and clean. I think i used some strong all purpose cleaner and let soak 1 day and than flushed and flushed and flushed (rad out of car i said). If radiator looks clean and water does gush out of bottom port at a pretty fast rate (use your judgement unless someone knows the measurement), move on to purchasing and installing higher flow pump.

someone correct me if im wrong or have better way of cleaning radiator without flushing it through a brand new motor.
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
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Nov 10, 2006
#13
  • Nov 10, 2006
  • #13
vnmsgt said:
The clutch is fine. Its just if I try and go downtown to cruise and I get caught in a couple of lights my temp shoots up to 205-210 like nothing and will keep climbing if I do not find some open road. I have a 3 row heavy duty truck radiator in it and am going to try the electric cooling fan I bought. This is also with the a/c condensor taken off from in front of the radiator.
Click to expand...
This is most often a fan issue, or from U/D's. The rest of the system functions properly if you can cool down once underway.

Good luck.
 

vnmsgt

Member
Oct 20, 2003
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Nov 11, 2006
#14
  • Nov 11, 2006
  • #14
HISSIN50 said:
This is most often a fan issue, or from U/D's. The rest of the system functions properly if you can cool down once underway.

Good luck.
Click to expand...
yeah, once I get going again it always cools down. It just heats up way too fast when I stop.
 
S

Sicarius428

Active Member
Jan 6, 2004
2,085
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49
Nov 13, 2006
#15
  • Nov 13, 2006
  • #15
High volume probably will help. I suggest a Stewarts or an edelbrock. I have a high volume to compensate for my UD pullies and the stewarts works awesome. I had a Milodon(total junk) and it actually caused my engine to overheat at a light. With your radiator and the Mark 8 combo you should be pushing plenty of air.
Kevin
 

Prime Lord

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#16
  • Nov 13, 2006
  • #16
+1 for Stewart Components water pump.

Great high volume pump and only runs about $70.
 
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