Does ANYONE make a one piece, stainless steel OR X Pipe?

Insane3D

New Member
Jul 21, 2004
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I just got my Bassani OR X in, and I was very disappointed to find it comes in three pieces. I went by the picture posted for their pipe that shows it being ONE PIECE, and I get three pieces and clamps.

One of the main reason I wanted a one piece pipe was to not have to deal with clamps or welding AT ALL. I hate clamps, and I don't really have the cash to have a shop weld them, not that it matters. Up here no one will touch anything that doesn't have cats on it.

Man, first FRPP ceramic headers come in crappy shape and need to be sent back, and now this. I guess that addage about spending more for the "best" doesn't always apply...

:bang:
 
I thought that Bassani made one too but their site sucks. They don't provide any decent explanations or pictures on their website so I could not comfirm that.
 
Found this in another thread just below this one. lol

50932.jpg
 
I have had 3 other one-piece x/h pipes besides the Bassani. The 3 piece Bassani by far fits the best. The three piece design allows for pin point adjustment. Don't waste your time with a one piece. One you install the three piece and see how great it works you will never go back to a one piece. The Bassani is a breeze to put together too. They include the band clamps and the heater hose for the air pump return.
 
tunedin302 said:
I have had 3 other one-piece x/h pipes besides the Bassani. The 3 piece Bassani by far fits the best. The three piece design allows for pin point adjustment. Don't waste your time with a one piece. One you install the three piece and see how great it works you will never go back to a one piece. The Bassani is a breeze to put together too. They include the band clamps and the heater hose for the air pump return.


Well, the clamps do look really nice...not your average clamps. I suppose I will try and just install it. As for the air tube, it's long gone. I was considering sending it to a welding shop in the area to cut off the air pipe outlet flush with the pipe, and have them seal the hole somehow.

I wish they wouldn't post that pic of it being 1 piece when it's not... :mad:
 
Insane3D said:
I wish they wouldn't post that pic of it being 1 piece when it's not... :mad:

Totally understand and I felt the same way when I got it. Loosely bolt up each individual pipe to the header flangle first. Use a floor jack or tranny jack to hold the pipes in the air and off the ground. I then put the x on and adjusted everything with a tranny jack under the X portion. Unfortunately I couldn't use the hanger b/c my Tremec pushed the hanger back too far. I am in the process of welding new hanger on but the pipe doesn't move even w/o hangers. If done right, you will be thankful for this design and it will fit like a glove. Good luck.
 
Thanks for the advice...

When I get my replacement FRPP ceramic shorties back from Summit, and my ARP SS header bolts come in, I will be doing both the headers and X at once. I was thinking that putting the headers on first, but loose, attaching the pipes to the header flange loose, then fitting the back piece.

My only concern is will I be able to tighten the clamp enough with hand tools. Also, how about once I have the joints fitted, running a thin bead of ultra copper RTX around the seal between the two pipes, then clamping it down?

I'm going to be using some good copper anti-sieze on all the studs/bolts because I will need to take this off for inspection every year..
 
Insane3D said:
My only concern is will I be able to tighten the clamp enough with hand tools. Also, how about once I have the joints fitted, running a thin bead of ultra copper RTX around the seal between the two pipes, then clamping it down?

You shouldn't have any problem tightening the clamps with hand tools. The hardest part of the install is the upper header flange bolt on the passenger side. I use an extension, elbow, and a deep 19 mm socket. Also, because they are ball joint connectors, you do not need to use any seal at the joints. I have never used any sealant and have never had a leak of any kind. Furthermore, the band clamps do a superb job of clamping the pipes. If you tighten them down they will not leak at all. Trust me, as long as you tighten everything down, and you don't have to go crazy either, nothing will leak. I would focus more so on the adjustment phase before hand.
 
Gotcha. Thanks again.

I do have two long 3/8" extension, and a nice Craftsman set, but no elbow. Is the elbow super important, or could I get straight on it with a longer extension bar?

I've done some research of the ball and socket connections too, and I wouldn't use RTV there, I just meant the seam where the pipes clamp together. I figured a thin little bead around that seam, once it's fitted, then putting the clamp over that. I realize it's probably overkill, but I figured it would only take a extra second or two. Also, I hear it's good to just snug the header flange bolts, then alternate on each one, like each 1/2 turn or so, to make sure you pull the pipes together straight on.

Thanks again for the tips, that really helps. I should mention another reason I'm being overkill on this is because the car is driven year round, and is my only car. This includes the winter and road salt up here in northern New England...

I want to keep this pipe easy to take on and off every year..
 
Get yourself a elbow (universal joint) from sears. This one cost about $11 and it will make your life a lot easier.
View attachment 517838
You definately want to make sure the pipes sit close to even on the header flange. Once you get into it and do it you will see that a lot will make sense as you do it and it really is not that difficult. The RTV is up to you. I used run the same type of connection on an H-pipe for over 10 years with no sealant and just a clamp and it never leaked. Good luck and feel free to let me know if I can answer any questions.
 
89sleeper said:
VRS.
http://www.vrsexhaust.com/X-PIPES/x-pipes.html
Theres are 2 peice but bolt together like stock exhaust with a ball joint connector. They are less expensive and make more power than Bassani too.
Kind of look like this.
96_98_XPIPE_LRG.gif

VRS is a great quality piece for only 173 bucks. Stainless steel too. Only thing I wish it had was a bung for the air tube. The pieces with the clamp are the best, allows for better fitment and adjustment.