Electrical Does EFI computer case need to grounded?

Fireriders

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Hi any help would be greatly appreciated. I purchased and installed the Ford racing EFI wiring harness on an 89 5.0 HO. Part # M-12071-A50. I've checked and rechecked then rechecked again all connections. I have battery voltage at all of the injectors but I get no pulse when cranking. To be sure everything was right I started at page one of the installation manual and went step by step again. Still no pulse but have battery voltage at the injectors. Engine fires and runs with ether then stalls. No fuel from the injectors. Does the case of the computer have to be grounded for fuel injectors to work?? One other issue is wiring kit comes with a amber dash, check engine light. Light only comes on dimly not bright. Can barely see it. Connector says about 5 volts at the light but light itself is marked with 12V. If you withe the light to a test 12v battery the light is brite. Any ideas are welcome. Thanks
 
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Blown88GT

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1. Does the case of the computer have to be grounded for fuel injectors to work??...
2. One other issue is wiring kit comes with a amber dash, check engine light. Light only comes on dimly not bright. Can barely see it. Connector says about 5 volts at the light but light itself is marked with 12V. If you withe the light to a test 12v battery the light is brite. Any ideas are welcome.
1. No.
2. This probably indicates some wiring harness issue which is why the injectors don't work, either.
 
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General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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There are other grounds the computer depends on, one between the battery and the solenoid and the back of the drivers side head to the firewall for the instruments
 

jrichker

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Ok thanks looks like I have some tracing to do.
It’s Decision Tree time:

No spark = go to step #1 & 2.
Good spark - what is a good spark can be a subjective judgment. If you have any doubts, borrow a known good coil from another pre 1996 Ford.
If you do have good spark = go to step # 3

Engine fires off and then dies = go to step # 4
Make sure that you have fuel pressure when the engine fires off. Leave the fuel pressure gauge connected while testing so that you can observe what the fuel pressure is doing.

Fuel pressure OK while cranking
Go to step # 5
Be sure to use a noid light to see if the injectors are pulsing. Use the most accessible fuel injector connector for the noid test.

Noid light pulses and fuel pressure is good.
Go to step #6


Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected 5.0 Mustangs model years 1986-1995

A word about this checklist before you start: it is arranged in a specific order to put the most likely failure items first. That will save you time, energy and money. Start at the top of the list and work your way down. Jumping around will possibly cause you to miss just what you need to see to find and fix the problem. Don’t skip any steps because the next step depends on the last step working correctly.

Revised 26-Jul-2017 to add fuse link diagram.

All text applies to all models unless stated otherwise.

Note: 94-95 specific changes are in red

1.) Remove push on connector (small red/blue wire) from starter solenoid and turn ignition switch to the Run position. Place car in neutral or Park and set the parking brake. Remove the coil wire from distributor & and hold it 3/8” away from the engine block. Jumper the screw to the big bolt on the starter solenoid that has the battery wire connected to it. You should get a nice fat blue spark.

Most of the items are electrical in nature, so a test light, or even better, a voltmeter, is helpful to be sure they have power to them.

No spark, possible failed items in order of their probability:
A.) MSD, Crane, or other ignition box if present - Bypass it and return to stock configuration if possible. Do this as a temporary measure to eliminate it as a possible problem source.
B.) PIP sensor in distributor. The PIP sensor supplies the timing pulse to trigger the TFI and injectors. A failing PIP sensor will sometimes let the engine start if the SPOUT is removed. See paragraph 5A – Using a noid light will tell if the PIP is working by flashing when the engine is cranking.
C.) TFI module: use a test light to check the TFI module. Place one lead of the test light on the red/green wire on the ignition coil connector and the other lead on the dark green/yellow wire on the ignition coil connector. If the TFI is working properly, the test light will flash when the engine is cranked using the ignition switch.
D.) Coil
E.) No EEC or computer power - EEC or computer relay failure
86-93 models only: EEC relay next to computer - look for 12 volts at the fuel injector red wires.
94-95 models only: EEC or PCM power relay in the constant control relay module. Look for 12 volts at the fuel injector red wires.
Both 86-93 and 94-95 models: No 12 volts with the ignition switch in the run position on the fuel injector red wires. The relay has failed or there is no power coming from the ignition switch. Make sure that there is 12 volts on the red/green wire on the coil before replacing the relay.
F.) No EEC or computer power - fuse or fuse link failure
86-93 models only: Fuse links in wiring harness - look for 12 volts at the fuel injector red wires. All the fuse links live in a bundle up near the starter solenoid. Look for a 20 gauge blue fuse link connected to 2 black/orange 14 gauge wires.
94-95 models only: 20 amp EEC fuse in the engine compartment fuse box. Look for 12 volts at the fuel injector red wires.
G.) Ignition switch - look for 12 volts at the ignition coil red/lt green wire. No 12 volts, blown fuse link or faulty ignition switch. Remove the plastic from around the ignition switch and look for 12 volts on the red/green wire on the ignition switch with it in the Run position. No 12 volts and the ignition switch is faulty. If 12 volts is present in the Run position at the ignition switch but not at the coil, then the fuse or fuse link is blown.
Note: fuses or fuse links blow for a reason. Don’t replace either a fuse or fuse link with one with a larger rating than stock. Doing so invites an electrical fire.
Ignition fuse links may be replaced with an inline fuse holder and 5 amp fuse for troubleshooting purposes.
94-95 models only: Check inside fuse panel for fuse #18 blown – 20 amp fuse
H.) Missing or loose computer power ground. The computer has its own dedicated power ground that comes off the ground pigtail on the battery ground wire. Due to it's proximity to the battery, it may become corroded by acid fumes from the battery.
In 86-90 model cars, it is a black cylinder about 2 1/2" long by 1" diameter with a black/lt green wire.
In 91-95 model cars it is a black cylinder about 2 1/2" long by 1" diameter with a black/white wire.
You'll find it up next to the starter solenoid where the wire goes into the wiring harness
I.) Computer. Don’t replace the computer just because you don’t understand how it works. Computers seldom fail, it usually is a sensor or wiring problem that causes the problems.
J.) Bad or missing secondary power ground. It is located between the back of the intake manifold and the driver's side firewall. It supplies ground for the alternator, A/C compressor clutch and other electrical accessories such as the gauges.
K.) Engine fires briefly, but dies immediately when the key is released to the Run position. Crank the engine & when it fires off, pull the small push on connector (red/blue wire) off the starter relay (Looks like it is stuck on a screw). Hold the switch in the crank position: if it continues to run there is a problem with either the ignition switch or TFI module. Check for 12 volts at the red/green wire on the coil with the switch in the Run position. Good 12 volts, then replace the TFI.
See the Ignition switch wiring diagram for more information on the ignition wiring fuse link because it is the next thing to be tested. You will need a Multimeter or DVM and know how to use the Ohms function to check continuity between the red/green wire on the ignition coil and the red/green wire on the ignition switch. Make sure that the ignition switch is in the off position when you do the check. You should see less than 1 Ω (Ohm) between the red/green wire on the coil and the red/green wire on the ignition switch. More than 1 Ω means that the fuse link may have blown open and needs to be replaced. If you get 1 Ω or less means the fuse link is OK and the ignition switch is bad.

Wiring Diagrams:
See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-95 wiring Mustang FAQ - Engine Information Everyone should bookmark this site.


Ignition switch wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif

Fuel, alternator, A/C and ignition wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 88-91 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 91-93 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/91-93_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 94-95 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/94-95_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

AutoZone wiring diagrams: You can navigate to the diagrams yourself via Repair Info | AutoZone.com and select the car year, make, model and engine. That will enable you to bring up the wiring diagram for your particular car.

2.) Spark at coil wire, pull #1 plug wire off at the spark plug and check to see spark. No spark, possible failed items in order of their probability: [/b]
A.) Moisture inside distributor – remove cap, dry off & spray with WD40
B.) Distributor cap
C.) Rotor
D.) Spark Plug wires
E.) Coil weak or intermittent - you should see 3/8" fat blue spark with a good coil

3.) Spark at spark plug, but no start.
Next, get a can of starting fluid (ether) from your local auto parts store: costs a $1.30 or so. Then pull the air duct off at the throttle body elbow, open the throttle, and spray the ether in it. Reconnect the air duct and try to start the car. Do not try to start the car without reconnecting the air duct.

Two reasons:
1.) If it backfires, the chance for a serious fire is increased.
2.) On Mass Air cars, the computer needs to measure the MAF flow once the engine starts.

If it starts then, you have a fuel management issue. Continue the checklist with emphasis of fuel related items that follow. If it doesn’t, then it is a computer or timing issue: see Step 4.

Clue – listen for the fuel pump to prime when you first turn the ignition switch on. It should run for 2-4 seconds and shut off. To trick the fuel pump into running, find the EEC test connector and jump the connector in the Upper RH corner to ground. The EEC connector is near the wiper motor and LH hood hinge.



If the relay & inertia switch are OK, you will have power to the pump. Check fuel pressure – remove the cap from the Schrader valve behind the alternator and depress the core. Fuel should squirt out, catch it in a rag. Beware of fire hazard when you do this. In a pinch, you can use a tire pressure gauge to measure the fuel pressure. It may not be completely accurate, but you will have some clue as to how much pressure you have. If you have any doubts about having sufficient fuel flow/pressure, rent a fuel pressure test gauge from the auto parts store. That will tell you for sure if you have adequate fuel pressure.

4.) No fuel pressure, possible failed items in order of their probability:

A.) Tripped inertia switch – Coupe & hatch cars hide it under the plastic trim covering the driver's side taillight. Use the voltmeter or test light to make sure you have power to both sides of the switch
B.) Fuel pump power relay – located under the driver’s seat in most stangs built before 92. On 92 and later model cars it is located below the Mass Air Flow meter. Look for 12 volts at the Pink/Black wire on the fuel pump relay.
C.) Clogged fuel filter
D.) Failed fuel pump

E.) 86-90 models only: Blown fuse link in wiring harness. Look for 12 volts at the Orange/Lt Blue wire on the fuel pump relay.
91-93 models only Blown fuse link in wiring harness. Look for 12 volts at the Pink/Black wire on the fuel pump relay.

The fuse links for all model years 86-93 live in the wiring harness near the starter solenoid.



64326.gif




94-95 models only: 20 amp fuel pump fuse in the engine compartment fuse box. Look for 12 volts at the Dark green/yellow wire on the constant control relay module.

F.) Engine seem to load up on fuel and may have black smoke at the tailpipe. Fuel pressure regulator failed. Remove the vacuum line from the regulator and inspect for fuel escaping while the pump is running. If fuel is coming out the vacuum port, the regulator has failed. Check the regulator vacuum line for fuel too. Disconnect it from the engine and blow air though it. If you find gas, the regulator has failed.

5.) Fuel pressure OK, the injectors are not firing.
A.) The PIP sensor in the distributor tells the computer when to fire the injectors. A failing PIP sensor will sometimes let the engine start if the SPOUT is removed.
A noid light available from any auto parts store, is one way to test the injector circuit to see if the injectors are firing. The noid light plugs into the fuel injector harness in place of any easily accessible injector. Plug it in and try to start the engine: it will flash if the injector is firing.
I like to use an old injector with compressed air applied to the injector where the fuel rail would normally connect. I hook the whole thing up, apply compressed air to the injector and stick it in a paper cup of soapy water. When the engine cranks with the ignition switch on, if the injector fires, it makes bubbles. Cheap if you have the stuff laying around, and works good too.
B.) Pull an injector wire connector off and look for 12 volts on the red wire when the ignition switch is on.
C.) No power, then look for problems with the 10 pin connecter (salt & pepper shakers at the rear of the upper manifold).

See the graphic for the 10 pin connector circuit layout.


The injector power pin is the VPWR pin in the black 10 pin connector.

D.) No power and the 10 pin connections are good: look for broken wiring between the orange/black wire on the EEC relay and the red wire for the 10 pin connectors.
E.) TPS voltage exceeds 3.7 volts with the throttle closed. This will shut off the injectors, since the computer uses this strategy to clear a flooded engine. Use a DVM, a pair of safety pins, and probe the black/white and green wires to measure the TPS voltage.

On a 94-95 Mustang, probe the black/white and grey/white wires to measure the TPS voltage.

It should be .5-.1.0 volts with the key on, engine not running. Note that if the black/white wire (signal ground) has a bad connection, you will get some strange readings. Make a second measurement using the battery post as the ground to eliminate any ground problems. If the readings are different by more than 5%, you may have a high resistance condition in the black/white signal ground circuit.

6.) Spark & fuel pressure OK.
A.) Failed IAB or improperly set base idle (no airflow to start engine). Press the throttle ¼ way down and try to start the car. See the "Surging Idle Checklist for help with all your idle/stall problems.
B.) Failed computer (not very likely)
C.) Engine ignition or cam timing off: only likely if the engine has been worked on recently. If you removed the distributor, there is a good probability that you installed it 180 degrees out of time.
D.) Firing order off: HO & 351 use a different firing order from the non HO engines.

HO & 351W 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8

Non HO 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8

E.) No start when hot - Press the throttle to the floor & try starting it, if you get this far. If it starts, replace the ECT.

F. ) Engine that has had the heads off or valves adjusted. Do a compression test to make sure the valves are not adjusted too tight. You should have a minimum of 90 PSI on a cold engine.
 
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Fireriders

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There are other grounds the computer depends on, one between the battery and the solenoid and the back of the drivers side head to the firewall for the instruments
Thank you for the quick response. This is a brand new stand alone harness by Ford performance racing. Part #M-12071-A50. It's for rodders like myself who want to install a 5.0 HO into a hot rod. I am working to put it in a 1955 Ford 2 door sedan. It sits on an engine stand right now. Wired it up per instructions. Checked everything 3 times. Have 12 volts to red wire on all injectors. If I spray ether in the intake and it will run till ether burns off then stalls. Tried noid light on harness and had NO impulse on any injector I could reach. I think I also mentioned the MIL light supplied with the kit when hooked to 12v burns bright. when connected to it's respective harness wires only glows dull. Voltage at the light is 5 volts +/- a half volt. Ford harness also has the self test connector which I have plugged my OTC 4000 into and it tells me no codes available. I just downloaded the flow chart that is on stangnet for just this type of issue. I am leaning toward the computer as I got it on ebay and the owner assured me "it works perfectly" famous last words. LOL Any help or direction would be awesome. thanks, Jeff
 

Fireriders

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Mar 27, 2020
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Long Island, NY
Rechecked all the wiring according to the Ford installation manual that came with the harness. All connections are correct. One other thing I have found is that in addition to the other issues the fuel pump never shuts off. When the key is turned to the run position it will pump until the key is turned off. Everything including most of the sensors are brand new. The only used part is the computer. So what I have so far is 1. power at the red wire of the injectors but NO pulse. 2. Check engine light supplied with kit is very dim. When hooked to a 12 volt source to test it burns brite. 3 Fuel pump continues to run all the time even with a no-start condition as I have never shuts off till I turn the key off.
 

Fireriders

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Fuel pump running all the time is a symptom of a damaged EEC-IV.
Here is where I am today. Friend brought over a EEC he had sitting on the shelf. Was an 88 speed density computer. He wasn't worried about burning it up so we plugged it in. Fuel pump ran and shut down just as it should so that's a plus. Hit the switch to crank and the motor fired up. It continued to run but that's a stretch of the word "run". Seems was running on the 5,6,7 and 8 cylinders only and was loping along. Only let it go like this for about 10 to 15 seconds then shut it off. I think it's pretty clear the computer I got off Ebay is shot. Maybe good for a core trade in? Hope so anyway. If anything comes to mind I'm very open to ideas and will get another EEC if I can find one.
 

Fireriders

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Send that one off and get it fixed. Prolly money ahead.
How many guys out there unloading crap computers?
To many losers unloading crap I would guess. I ordered the capacitor set as I can do that myself. If it doesn't work then I can always trade it in as it would be way above my skill set to go further with it. Do you know anyone who does overhauls on these at a decent price? Thanks for all the help to. Jeff
 

Mstng93SSP

You have a nice rear end there Dave.
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90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
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Make sure you are using the firing order that's correct for the engine. It depends on the camshaft. Truck and sedans had the regular 5.0 firing order. Aftermarket camshafts and the mustang, mark vii, and explorer ( ? ) have the HO firing order.
 
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Blown88GT

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To many losers unloading crap I would guess. I ordered the capacitor set as I can do that myself. If it doesn't work then I can always trade it in as it would be way above my skill set to go further with it. Do you know anyone who does overhauls on these at a decent price? Thanks for all the help to. Jeff
IIRC, the fuel pump running all the time was due to someone thinking the underhood light connector is the STI connector.
You should be able to see the bad trace.
selftest01.gif

Connecting it burns up a trace on the circuit board which is easily repaired. If you can do a cap replacement, you can do a trace repair.
 

Fireriders

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Mar 27, 2020
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Long Island, NY
Make sure you are using the firing order that's correct for the engine. It depends on the camshaft. Truck and sedans had the regular 5.0 firing order. Aftermarket camshafts and the mustang, mark vii, and explorer ( ? ) have the HO firing order.
Wasn't even thinking about wrong firing order. Checked the casting number has a T for truck but hascam was changed to roller cam so I'm using the right HO firing order. Thanks for the help though.
 

Fireriders

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Hi and I checked the firing order to be sure. Even took the plugs out to be positive what piston was on compression stroke. Firing order is a-ok. I sent the ECM to the place in florida that was recommended. Got it back day before yesterday. Plugged it in today and "most" of the issues I had are resolved save one. Fuel pump now shuts off when engine not running with key on. Turn key off then on pump runs for about 3 seconds and shuts off. Other problem fixed is I can now use my OTC 4000 scanner and I get codes. KOEO codes are 67, 81, 82, and 85. None of these codes should affect the actual running of the engine but just as before it is running only on 5,6,7 and 8. 1,2,3 and 4 DO NOT fire. I checked spark and is very, very weak on the right side. (1234 side). Even if I spray starting fluid in it has no effect. Only left side fires so this confirms not a fuel issue. Can the TFI cause spark to one bank of pistons but not the other?? Or is this still an ECM issue? Any help out there will help me keep from going nuts. Thanks.
 

Blown88GT

Founding Member
Nov 13, 1999
2,037
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Palm Beach Gardens, FL
Hi and I checked the firing order to be sure. Even took the plugs out to be positive what piston was on compression stroke. Firing order is a-ok. I sent the ECM to the place in florida that was recommended. Got it back day before yesterday. Plugged it in today and "most" of the issues I had are resolved save one. Fuel pump now shuts off when engine not running with key on. Turn key off then on pump runs for about 3 seconds and shuts off. Other problem fixed is I can now use my OTC 4000 scanner and I get codes. KOEO codes are 67, 81, 82, and 85. None of these codes should affect the actual running of the engine but just as before it is running only on 5,6,7 and 8. 1,2,3 and 4 DO NOT fire. I checked spark and is very, very weak on the right side. (1234 side). Even if I spray starting fluid in it has no effect. Only left side fires so this confirms not a fuel issue. Can the TFI cause spark to one bank of pistons but not the other?? Or is this still an ECM issue? Any help out there will help me keep from going nuts. Thanks.
What makes you think that this is a problem?
This is exactly the way it is supposed to work.
 
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