Couple of things I'd add:
1) it won't run a KOER test (engine running) without a neutral safety switch - don't ask how I know. You can jumper across pins 3 and 6 on the ecu plug and fool it into thinking it's in neutral.
2) Timing and idle are VERY related -- the ecu uses both the IAB solenoid AND timing changes to control idle speed. When it needs a quick blip to up the idle speed (like when you turn the a/c on, or almost kill it) it will advance the timing for a second because the response time of that change is much quicker than trying to open the IAC enough to catch the idle.
Turn the THROTTLE STOP screw (it's not idle adjustment -- the computer controls the idle) until it just touches the throttle arm, and then a 1/4 turn more; otherwise you risk sticking the throttle plate in the bore of the throttle body.
1) it won't run a KOER test (engine running) without a neutral safety switch - don't ask how I know. You can jumper across pins 3 and 6 on the ecu plug and fool it into thinking it's in neutral.
2) Timing and idle are VERY related -- the ecu uses both the IAB solenoid AND timing changes to control idle speed. When it needs a quick blip to up the idle speed (like when you turn the a/c on, or almost kill it) it will advance the timing for a second because the response time of that change is much quicker than trying to open the IAC enough to catch the idle.
Turn the THROTTLE STOP screw (it's not idle adjustment -- the computer controls the idle) until it just touches the throttle arm, and then a 1/4 turn more; otherwise you risk sticking the throttle plate in the bore of the throttle body.