does the trans mainshaft wiggle?

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rockin_rick

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Apr 5, 2004

#1

• Apr 5, 2004

• #1

On a stock T-5, if you pull out the driveshaft yoke, can you move/wiggle the mainshaft (output shaft) laterally with a screwdriver? Is there some give in there, or is it supposed to be rock solid?

After looking through the rebuild manual, it doesn't look like there is a bearing in the tailhousing at all. Just the bearing between the input shaft and the bearing at the case between first gear and fifth gear. Then the output shaft hanging way out through the tailhousing.

Rick

 

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Black70Fastback

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Apr 5, 2004

#2

• Apr 5, 2004

• #2

the drive shaft's slip yoke rides on a bushing/seel unit in the back of the tailhousing. with the drive shaft installed, the driveshaft is what carries that output shaft.

 

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rockin_rick

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Apr 5, 2004

#3

• Apr 5, 2004

• #3

So in all of the tailhousing, the only support for the output shaft is the rear oil seal (through the yoke)?

Can you move the shaft at all, or should it be rock solid? Mine moves some, is this normal, or are the bearings bad? With the distance that the shaft goes unsupported (without the yoke/seal support), I'd guess that it would move a bit. Anyone know how much side to side play that shaft has?

Rick

 

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rockin_rick

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Apr 6, 2004

#4

• Apr 6, 2004

• #4

ttt

 

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Black70Fastback

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#5

• Apr 6, 2004

• #5

well not the oil seel itself but behind the seel is a bushing about 1 1/2 - 2 inches long. that is what supports it.

how much play are you talking? i wouldnt expect it to be rock solid b/c its quite a long shaft and only supported by the rear main bearing in the case that bearing inside of fourth gear (the input shaft) but not totally floppy either.

does your transmission make any noise of any kind? does it wine or click? how many miles are on it?

p.s. a cold transmission is supposed to have a coulpe thousandths of "slop" to give room for metel expension when warm and for the flow of oil.

 

AznStanger3v

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#6

• Apr 6, 2004

• #6

there is some play, but very little. It shouldnt be going all over the place though

 

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rockin_rick

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Apr 6, 2004

#7

• Apr 6, 2004

• #7

It's not going all over the place, but when I pried out the seal with a screwdriver last fall (yeah, I know, not the best method), I could pry against the shaft and it would move maybe a 1/4". I don't really remember how much, it was last fall. I need to get out there and check it again. I'm just trying to decide on if I'm going to rebuild/replace the trans, and want to take this into account. I just installed a new aluminum driveshaft and don't want it getting ruined (the yoke) because that shaft is moving around too much. I want to avoid excess wear on the yoke, and/or excess vibrations tearing up my U-joints.

Rick

 

mytight95

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#8

• Apr 6, 2004

• #8

There is a bronze/copper bushing in the extension housing that the yoke on the DS slides into via going over the outside of the output shaft. There is going to be some slop in it, but as long as it is only very little, there is nothing wrong with it, however if you can move it far enough for it to touch the casing of the extension housing this would be bad(i've seen it)

what kind of rebuild manual you using for that thing. Also let me know if you aren't gonna rebuild it, a buddie of mine in town needs one to go in his car, and i can rebuld it for him


jason

 

Slow5.0

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Apr 7, 2004

#9

• Apr 7, 2004

• #9

rockin_rick said:

Can you move the shaft at all, or should it be rock solid? Mine moves some, is this normal, or are the bearings bad? With the distance that the shaft goes unsupported (without the yoke/seal support), I'd guess that it would move a bit. Anyone know how much side to side play that shaft has?

Rick

Click to expand...

My play too about 5mm, I hope so this helps

 

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rockin_rick

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Apr 7, 2004

#10

• Apr 7, 2004

• #10

mytight95 said:

what kind of rebuild manual you using for that thing.
jason

Click to expand...

It's just a PDF file that I found on the internet. It looks like someone scanned a paper manual and turned it into a PDF. Not the best visual quality. I assume that this is a common one found online.

Rick

 

Rootus

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#11

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rockin_rick said:

It's just a PDF file that I found on the internet. It looks like someone scanned a paper manual and turned it into a PDF. Not the best visual quality. I assume that this is a common one found online.

Click to expand...

Call Hanlon and get their rebuild video. Then watch it a couple of times, and when you're doing the rebuild setup a small TV and VCR in your shop and reference the video. Makes it so much easier!

http://www.hanlonmotorsports.com/

Dave

 

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rockin_rick

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If I was going to rebuild it myself, that's what I would do. I just got the pdf a while ago for the hell of it.

Rick

 

Rootus

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#13

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rockin_rick said:

If I was going to rebuild it myself, that's what I would do. I just got the pdf a while ago for the hell of it.

Click to expand...

Ahhh, for some reason I thought you *were* going to rebuild it. My bad!

Dave

 

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rockin_rick

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I'm considering it, but I have a buddy that rebuilds rear ends and trannys for a living. He'd do it cheap.

But I would like to learn how. What special tools do I need? A press?

Rick

 

Rootus

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#15

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rockin_rick said:

But I would like to learn how. What special tools do I need? A press?

Click to expand...

Yeah, a press (cheap $100 one from Harbor Freight will do the trick). Other than simple hand tools, you'll need snap ring pliers and a dial indicator.

It's not hard at all, I was surprised at how straightforward the whole process is.

Dave

 

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rockin_rick

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#16

• Apr 7, 2004

• #16

Do you need arbor plates for that press, or do they come with it?

Does the video describe how to determine/examine parts not included in the rebuild kit for damage and replacement? Parts like gears, countershaft, shift forks, mainshaft, etc. How long would it take for someone reasonably mechanically inclined?

I got a dial indicator, just need the snap ring pliers, and the press. What I'd pay him would be about the same if I bought these tools. I'd much rather have the tools and experience, for the money...

(OT Dave - Are you still running TF 6.300 pushrods?)

Rick