Does Your Mustang Sit Level?

Opentracker said:

I spend a lot of time getting the cars to sit right. Lot's of coil cutting and leaf spring rebuilding till it's right. So, yes, my car sits level.

John

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Just got around to rebuilding the rear leafs last weekend. I thought my rear was off 1" side to side. I cleaned all the resto goods, parts and tools out of the car and it sits level now. I have a write up on another forum about leaf rebuilding to stiffen the leafs and lower the car without using lowering blocks. Not trying to steal the thread but I have a write up on lowering the rear end without lowering blocks. I learned this from my friend John:

Here goes:
what you need is an extra set of leaf springs preferably from a Ford but not necessary. You will need two long threaded rods, about 3 feet each, and nuts and washers for each end(5/16). Also you will need 4 squared u-bolts that will clamp the leafs together when you are done(2.5"-3" wide). Or just use the original sheetmetal clamps.
Remove the leaf springs from the car. Remove the clamps that keep the leafs in place from both pairs of leaf springs. Remove the through bolt that holds and centers the leafs. Now, I'll assume you have a 4 leaf setup. Number them from smallest to longest, #1 smallest #4 longest. You can remove the #1 from your set to lower more. Here's where it gets tricky. You might have to repeat this several times to get the perfect ride height. From the spare set of leafs use either the #2 or #3 or both. If you use the #2 it will lower the rear some. It you use the #3 it will lower it more. If you use both you're having fun. If the #3 alone is too low, go back and use the #2. Now, how to make sense of all that. Let's take the spare #2 and place it on a negative arch from the rest of the leafs. So from top to bottom you have a reversed #2, then normal#4, #3,and #2. Make sure the longer side of the added leaf is towards the front. Using the long threaded rod run it through the hole to center the leafs. Put the washers on the ends and thread the nuts on. Keeping the leafs from separating tighten the nuts down until it won't tighten anymore. As in everything is clamped together. Use 2 C clamps as close to center to hold the leafs togeter and remove the threaded rod. Install the original through bolt (or a 5/16 allen head bolt works)and tighten down. Add the leaf clamps(squared u bolts) or use the ones that came with the leaf springs. Make sure it is snug but not too tight. The clamp shouldn't slide back and forth on the leafs, but shouldn't be so tight the leafs can't flex between eachother when driving. Also, careful not to have them where they will contact the sidewall of the tires. What this does is sandwich the 2 #2's. or whicever combo you choose. Since they are working against eachother they pretty much cancel eachother out but they staighten out the #4 and brace it tightening up the rear suspension as well as lowering it. Now, if you get it lowered to almost where you want it but are like 1/4 inch too tall you can install the #1 on top but not inverted just as a spacer. Each leaf is about 1/4" thick by 2.5" wide. So, if you add a leaf and don't remove any you might want to get a 5/16 allen-head bolt that is 1/4 longer than the original.

Or, you can buy a set of reverse eye springs and call it done.
I'm just kidding...cool write up on dearching springs. I always wondered how guys did that in their garage.

my 1st 67: 1/2" lower driver side with maier leafsprings.
my 2nd 67: 1/4" lower driver grab a trak 5 leafs
dads 67: 3/8" lower driver grab a trak 5 leafs
dads 70 boss 302: 1/2" lower driver unknown springs
my 88 gt(!?!?!?!?): 1/2" lower driver side. and they are NEW eibach springs
mustang have a driver side rear curse. everyone ive seen besides coilover cars are uneven

huRACEmentPSR said:

my 1st 67: 1/2" lower driver side with maier leafsprings.
my 2nd 67: 1/4" lower driver grab a trak 5 leafs
dads 67: 3/8" lower driver grab a trak 5 leafs
dads 70 boss 302: 1/2" lower driver unknown springs
my 88 gt(!?!?!?!?): 1/2" lower driver side. and they are NEW eibach springs
mustang have a driver side rear curse. everyone ive seen besides coilover cars are uneven

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I think you're onto something here. I do think my drivers side is still 1/4 off, but am satisfied. My drivers front is 1/4 lower than the passenger front. I even cut the passenger coil a bit to get it to mach but it did nothing noticeable.

doesnt it also have to do with the way the engine torques the rear end from launching that may cause that. I see a lot of cars at the track that are uneven due to torque or due to the fact they make it that way..

Mine also leans a little on the driver side as well.

grego37 said:

I think that torque issue would make sense on the other side.
During launch , the driver side is the side that comes up first or higher, this would mean (i'm guessing here) that the right rear would squat more and get worn out sooner than the driver side rear. If the pass. side rear was lower the torque issue would make sense (I think)

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i think that make sense also. when i got my car the body was more than an inch off, no bent frame.i replaced all of my springs and it is now a little less than 1/2" off. i'm thinking 30 years of hard launches probably had a little to do with it.

My 67fb is also 1/2 higher on the passenger side. I noticed it after installing new springs. I removed the springs and had another set sent to me. Put them on and same thing. I then replaced the front springs and it is still off. I took it to a frame shop. They put it on the rack and just give it a good look over. They didn't find any thing actually bent but it was indeed 1/2 off. They told me they could straighten it but it would have the screw up every thing else like the door gaps etc. he recommended a lowering block on one side to compensate.

so can it actaully be possible that 30 years of hard launches could make that difference? hey guys, when you launch your car, what side goes up higher, drivers or passenger???

grego37 said:

If my pass. rear is 1/2" higher, do you think its ok to put a 1/2" lowering block on the pass. side to compensate, to get it closer to level?

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In my opinion a 1/2" spacer on one side would be okay. Anything taller and your pushing it. The half inchers are solid. The 1" are hollow. I was going to do the same thing on my car with a 1" difference. 1/2" spacer on one side and a 1/2" lift shackle on the other side to get my 1".

1/4 to 1/2" higher on the passenger side. It was worse before I installed new springs