doing brakes tomorrow need a little help

abouttobeglue

Founding Member

Nov 25, 2001

529

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18

birmingham al

Oct 29, 2004

#1

• Oct 29, 2004

• #1

my brakes have been not stopping as good, and the rotors feel warped so i bought 4 new rotors and new front and rear pads. i was going to get a shop to do it, but they want 300 for front and rear, and thats turning the rotors, i got all new pads and rotors for 200. is there any special tool for taking the pads off, on my 98 gmc 1500 the front calipers have a special tool to undo the bolts does the stang need this, any tips or help is greatly appreciated

 

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bdcardinal

tree hugger

Jun 10, 2003

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santa barbara, CA

Oct 29, 2004

#2

• Oct 29, 2004

• #2

theres just a special tool for putting the rear caliper piston back in. you can pick one up at most auto parts stores. while youre at it, get some Speed Bleeders, got mine at Pep Boys, and get some Valvoline Synthetic DOT 3 ABS fluid. i got the big jug and flushed with that. helped the braking a ton.

 

TweekedGT

New Member

Jul 22, 2004

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Alberta

Oct 30, 2004

#3

• Oct 30, 2004

• #3

The rear brakes are the hardest part. As stated you need the caliper piston tool for your ABS in the rear. The one I have is shaped like a little cube and is gold. i just got it at the parts store for like $15. Once you get that tool it is smooth sailing. You pull the back wheels off, unbolt the brake calipers, remove the rotor, put the new rotor on, take the old brake pads out, put the new ones in, twist your caliper piston in with the tool, put the caliper on the rotor, bolt it up and put your tire on. That simple. I've never had to do my fronts yet but I'm guessing they are easier than the back. Good luck and have fun.

 

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bdcardinal

tree hugger

Jun 10, 2003

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santa barbara, CA

Oct 30, 2004

#4

• Oct 30, 2004

• #4

also, when you take the rotors off, use some sandpaper on the hub and clean that up real good. that will help the rotor sit better on the hub. just make sure everything is clean and the calipers slide smooth.

 

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Origommi

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Aug 14, 2004

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Oct 30, 2004

#5

• Oct 30, 2004

• #5

Do you still need the tool to change out the pads. And how important is it to change the roters and pads as opposed to just the pads. Thanks

 

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Jay99

New Member

Oct 4, 2004

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Sac/Rancho

Oct 30, 2004

#6

• Oct 30, 2004

• #6

yes you still need the tool if your just changing pads - example: old pads 5/16" thick - new pads 1/2" thick so for the new pads to fit in you need to compress the caliper to allow this, and the rear takes a special tool.

since most people dont feel like taking the rotors to have them turned they just buy new ones and hope they arent warped.

you get new rotors or turn them cause if you use your old rotors and they happen to be heavily glazed and/ or grooved your braking is not going to be very true and have a higher chance of squeaks.

so whats better two flat srufaces matching to each other or one flat surface matching to a mountain range?

 

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Origommi

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Aug 14, 2004

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Oct 30, 2004

#7

• Oct 30, 2004

• #7

Is there any other way to do the job without the tool. I havent changed pads in a long time, but the last time I did I just used a C Calmp to compress the piston. Can I do it that way or........? Thanks

 

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Jay99

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Oct 4, 2004

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Sac/Rancho

Oct 30, 2004

#8

• Oct 30, 2004

• #8

uh yeah hmm uh good luck, I just picked up that tool at kragens for 12 bucks and after all the years in wrenching i can say some tools were so worth it compared to the alternative. you can try but there is a chance you might have a big dollar mistake with your rear calipers(compared to 12 bucks)

http://www.partsamerica.com/PartDet...de=PBI&MfrPartNumber=648410&CategoryCode=3479

 

AirWolf87

New Member

Mar 14, 2004

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L I, NY

Oct 30, 2004

#9

• Oct 30, 2004

• #9

Origommi said:

Is there any other way to do the job without the tool. I havent changed pads in a long time, but the last time I did I just used a C Calmp to compress the piston. Can I do it that way or........? Thanks

Click to expand...

if i remember correctly, you can do that to the front ones, but the back ones require that you turn the piston for it to compress. in other words you need to screw it back in. That tool is the only practical way to do it. On an old nissan i had, i did this by using a pipe wrench to turn the piston but i would suggest that you DO NOT do this!!! you can realy screw up the seals and copletely kill your piston to save $10 on a tool. I dont know how old your car is, but if its any more than 5 or 6 years old, those bolts on the caliper are going to be pretty stiff and hard to turn. Be patient, use the right tools, a little wd-40 and dont take shortcuts. Remember...this is your brakes, this is probably the last place on your car that you want to do a half-assed job.
sorry for the lecture.lol

 

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Origommi

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Aug 14, 2004

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Oct 30, 2004

#10

• Oct 30, 2004

• #10

Thanks for the part info. I am in Germany and will have to order the part, however I am a little miffed. I looked at the tool and cant imagine how it would work. The last time I checked it was just a piston that needed to be compressed and held in place until the pads would fit. Right?

 

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Jay99

New Member

Oct 4, 2004

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Sac/Rancho

Oct 30, 2004

#11

• Oct 30, 2004

• #11

to use the part it attaches to the end of a 3/8' extension just like a socket. basically its a socket to allow you to turn your piston back into to rear caliper. its square and every side is a different application, nissan, subaru, ford etc.

a parts store may have it in stock under special parts, i just wanted to give you a good example. you should be able to get one. print it out and take it with you.

Don't set the parking brake. This should be obvious. The parking brake handle simply engages the rear brakes. If they are engaged, how are you going to compress them?
Compressing the piston - DO NOT use the C-clamp. The rear pistons must be compressed by turning them (I think it was clockwise) into the caliper. There is a special tool that I'm told is about $10. Or you can do it the way I did, use a good pair of needle nose pliars. You will see two notches in the piston where you can plant the pliars and use every ounce of strength to start turning the piston (it gets easier after the first few full turns).
You must transfer the side clips from the old pads to the new pads (unless they came with new clips, which mine didn't).
There is no stubborn torx bolt on the rears (thank goodness). Use a crescent wrench on the bolt that's there.
The manual I followed did not instruct me to put anti-squeal on the rear pads, so don't.
You will actually have to hold the rear calipers in place while you bolt them back down, due to the springs on top of the brake pads. This was the most difficult part (2nd to compressing the pistons, though). Make sure the pistons are fully seated to make this a little easier, and you'll probably need a buddy to hold the caliper down while you slip the bolt through.
http://www.hotrod.com/howto/51360/

 

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Origommi

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Aug 14, 2004

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Oct 31, 2004

#12

• Oct 31, 2004

• #12

Has anyone else done this without the special tool? If so what did you use?

 

stangman

15 Year Member

Jul 10, 2003

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in a 3 bed, 2 bath

Oct 31, 2004

#13

• Oct 31, 2004

• #13

Origommi said:

Has anyone else done this without the special tool? If so what did you use?

Click to expand...

if you use a c-clamp to compress the piston, you are going to trash your calipers. get the tool

 

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bdcardinal

tree hugger

Jun 10, 2003

3,612

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69

santa barbara, CA

Oct 31, 2004

#14

• Oct 31, 2004

• #14

dude get the tool. yesterday i was at the SVTOA event at Buttonwillow and there were guys from griggs and maximum motorsports as well as numerous 03/04 cobra, an 00R, tiger racing people there and when i asked them about the tool they all said that the tool is insanely important and you are a total moron to not use it. its a cheap tool, and worth the $10 it costs. i think that ford uses a similar pattern worldwide to if you go an and say you have a mustang and need the rear tool at any ford dealer they should hook you up. if you are in germany because of the military, AAFES might be able to score you one. or else go to www.sears.com theres one there.

 

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ForPointSex

Founding Member

Mar 19, 2002

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Mercer, NJ

Nov 1, 2004

#15

• Nov 1, 2004

• #15

You don't need any special tools. Use a C clamp to push the pistons back in and needle nose plyers for the rear pistons. Just don't scatch up the side of the pistons or they will leak.

 

AirWolf87

New Member

Mar 14, 2004

382

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L I, NY

Nov 1, 2004

#16

• Nov 1, 2004

• #16

ForPointSex said:

You don't need any special tools. Use a C clamp to push the pistons back in and needle nose plyers for the rear pistons. Just don't scatch up the side of the pistons or they will leak.

Click to expand...

and if they do...ur ****ed! might as well get the damn tool, dont you guys know the murphy law? "anything that can go wrong will." dont take a chance to save 10 bucks

 

NYStang2002

Member

Apr 10, 2003

231

0

16

Wappingers Falls, New York

Nov 1, 2004

#17

• Nov 1, 2004

• #17

Origommi said:

Has anyone else done this without the special tool? If so what did you use?

Click to expand...

Do not attempt to do the back brakes without the tool!!! Its relatavely inexpensive and will save you a major headache. Also DONT compress the rear pistons without turning them clockwise with the tool you will ruin them.

 

NYStang2002

Member

Apr 10, 2003

231

0

16

Wappingers Falls, New York

Nov 1, 2004

#18

• Nov 1, 2004

• #18

ForPointSex said:

You don't need any special tools. Use a C clamp to push the pistons back in and needle nose plyers for the rear pistons. Just don't scatch up the side of the pistons or they will leak.

Click to expand...

This is bad advise get....the tool.