DONE!!

stangjunkie

New Member
Nov 15, 2004
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Well i got everything installed last week in the engine bay next is suspension stuff. Everything works good and top end power is great!! the only question i have is around 15-1700 rpm in all gears if i am lightly pushing the acelorator pedal i get this bucking the whole car bucks almost like its stalling but if the rpm drops below 1500 it stops? any ideas??
 
Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR [[
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html

IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $35.
 
how far advanced is the timing. I have experienced low speed/load/rpm bucking as well and i believe the timing advance has something to do with it. Clean the MAF...and set the idle...see if that clears it up!
 
lol i think they said 37* total timing im not i genuis when it comes to this stuff. problem with setting idle sometimes it goes all the way up to like 1500 and sometimes its good at 900 i dunno why this happens either
 
i have the same problem and just about the same setup what you running for timming i moved mine up to 14 im thinking about bringing it back to 10. i also read some where that i could be the o2 sensors so im going to change thouse out. and im going to put the stock mass air back in and see if that makes any diff. everyone that i have seen that has this problem eather has the mass air systems mass air or the C&L. i have the mass air systems and alreays had it sent in once for a tune.
 
evilwater said:
i have the same problem and just about the same setup what you running for timming i moved mine up to 14 im thinking about bringing it back to 10. i also read some where that i could be the o2 sensors so im going to change thouse out. and im going to put the stock mass air back in and see if that makes any diff. everyone that i have seen that has this problem eather has the mass air systems mass air or the C&L. i have the mass air systems and alreays had it sent in once for a tune.
How come pepole throw parts at problems rather than try to diagnose the problem? Dump the codes & get some answers. It will save you time & money.
 
Guys -
Listen to jrichker he knows what he is talking about. I had major issue, dumped the codes like he said now, my car is just about finished (limited time to work on it). Pulled the codes and there were some major things wrong. This has fixed my check engine light and just about eliminated all the codes.

He also helped out with fixing the codes as well.
Thanks
 
90bluegt said:
Guys -
Listen to jrichker he knows what he is talking about. I had major issue, dumped the codes like he said now, my car is just about finished (limited time to work on it). Pulled the codes and there were some major things wrong. This has fixed my check engine light and just about eliminated all the codes.

He also helped out with fixing the codes as well.
Thanks

+ 1000

Listen to jrichker!! He is the MAN :hail2:
 
pulled codes but dont know what they mean i have code 67,81,82,95. the codes ran though twice and then the light flashed once then it gave me some new once and they are 29,32,66,95. i really have no idea at this point????
 
Check the link out and match the codes you are getting to what the link states they are.

http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html

67 (o): Clutch switch open, AC left on, transmission in gear.

81 (o): TAD or AM-2 (Thermactor Air Diverter)/ Secondary Air Injection Bypass (AIRB) solenoid circuit failure, or SCVNT (Speed Control Vent) circuit failure (IVSC test). 81 (o): 2.3 Turbo. Boost control circuit failure.

82: TAB or AM-1 (Thermactor Air Bypass)/ Secondary Air Injection Diverter (AIRD) solenoid circuit failure, or SCVAC (Speed Control Vacuum) circuit failure (IVSC test).

95 (oc): Fuel Pump Monitor circuit problems, processor to pump motor ground. Suspect inertia switch, FP relay, harness.

29 (c): VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) voltage too low.

32 (orc): EVP or PFE voltage below closed limit.

66 (rc*): MAF (2.3 Turbo, VAF) below minimum test voltage. -- I Cleaned the MAF and it cleared this for me..

You need to clear these codes and your car will run even better.

Thanks