*(&*&%#(#@ (don't do this!)

Edbert

Founding Member

Jul 13, 2002

3,548

32

109

Austin TX

Feb 24, 2004

#1

• Feb 24, 2004

• #1

http://www.edbert.net/oilpan.htm

 

hungrymonkey

White by Birth, Trash By Choice

Founding Member

Nov 29, 1999

3,077

12

108

Oregon.

Feb 24, 2004

#2

• Feb 24, 2004

• #2

duct tape works a bit better

whats that saying? If it happens once, its a mistake. If it happens again...

 

6Stang7

New Member

Jun 1, 2003

1,470

0

0

Livermore, CA

Feb 24, 2004

#3

• Feb 24, 2004

• #3

-Shaun

 

SuperDave

Early-Model Mentor

Founding Member

May 3, 2000

6,361

0

0

Tacoma, WA USA

Feb 24, 2004

#4

• Feb 24, 2004

• #4

Been there, done that. I find that using a small strip of paper to jam on the socket and extension works well. You can also just spin the extension with a 1/4" drive screw driver handle rather than use a drill.

I once did this on my former 430 Lincoln and was able to fish out the socket and extension using MAGNET.

 

rbohm

Founding Member

Apr 12, 2002

6,698

550

204

tucson,az

Feb 24, 2004

#5

• Feb 24, 2004

• #5

hey counted these things and you are totaly wrong. there are not 2,000 oil pan bolts, there are only 1765.

 

69 302/351c

Founding Member

May 29, 2001

1,147

0

36

Walkertown NC, originally Western Mass

Feb 24, 2004

#6

• Feb 24, 2004

• #6

It doesn't get any cheaper than going to Auto Zone and renting (for free if you return it) the correct tool. Needed to prime my 351c and it's 5/16 instead of 1/4 like the 302 so didn't really want to buy it. Returned it after 9 months and got my deposit back.

PS..also had to drop the pan since the oil pump shaft fell out when I brought the motor home from the machine shop..on it's side in the trunk of my Granada.

 

Edbert

Founding Member

Jul 13, 2002

3,548

32

109

Austin TX

Feb 24, 2004

#7

• Feb 24, 2004

• #7

69 302/351c said:

It doesn't get any cheaper than going to Auto Zone and renting (for free if you return it) the correct tool. Needed to prime my 351c and it's 5/16 instead of 1/4 like the 302 so didn't really want to buy it. Returned it after 9 months and got my deposit back.

Click to expand...

Thats a good idea! Hey Wickedmach...you guys got one of those at your AZ store?

BTW (for anyone who's interested) the 351W also uses a 5/16 shaft.

 

ashford

Member

Dec 19, 2003

485

0

16

fargo ND

Feb 24, 2004

#8

• Feb 24, 2004

• #8

if you have an old junk distributor laying around to gut out thats the cheapest way to make one

also always remember to install the oil pressure sending unit before priming and never stand in front of it( i always prime engines on the stand)

 

69stang351

New Member

Dec 23, 2002

191

0

0

Spokane, WA

Feb 24, 2004

#9

• Feb 24, 2004

• #9

Well look at it this way... you could have been working on an engine that had oil actually in the pan or even hot oil for that matter... making things worse for retreiving the lost part.... lol

 

I

injuner

New Member

Sep 25, 2002

17

0

0

South Carolina

Feb 24, 2004

#10

• Feb 24, 2004

• #10

At least you got some cool pictures, even if they aren't worth the labor.

 

mustang70

Founding Member

Nov 15, 2001

2,445

2

48

San Diego

Feb 25, 2004

#11

• Feb 25, 2004

• #11

I feel so much better about what I did now. I was putting the intake on my motor while it was on the stand and the engine was leaning down slightly. I was getting ready to put the last bolt in the back of the manifold when it slipped out of my hand and slid down the intake right into the distributor hole. Which I normally have a rag stuffed in or tape over. The bolt didn't even hesitate. I had to empty my brand new oil in the oil containers it came in since my container was full. Gotta love it.

 

ozstang65

Founding Member

Jul 13, 2002

313

0

0

Queensland, Australia

Feb 25, 2004

#12

• Feb 25, 2004

• #12

I hate it when things like that happen.....

Just as an aside, why prime the system anyway? If the engine is freshly rebuilt, it will be full of assembly lube, won't priming the system just wash this stuff into the sump? By the time you get the engine ready to start, the oil pressure will be back to zero and it, and the assembly lube, will be back in the sump. Would it not be better to prime the pump and fill the oil filter, and leave the assembly lube to do it's startup job??

(any theories on this would be appreciated as my rebuild will be ready to run in a few weeks and I am in two minds as to what to do)

 

67bluestang

New Member

May 13, 2003

193

0

0

Tucson, Arizona

Feb 25, 2004

#13

• Feb 25, 2004

• #13

ozstang65 said:

I hate it when things like that happen.....

Just as an aside, why prime the system anyway? If the engine is freshly rebuilt, it will be full of assembly lube, won't priming the system just wash this stuff into the sump? By the time you get the engine ready to start, the oil pressure will be back to zero and it, and the assembly lube, will be back in the sump. Would it not be better to prime the pump and fill the oil filter, and leave the assembly lube to do it's startup job??

(any theories on this would be appreciated as my rebuild will be ready to run in a few weeks and I am in two minds as to what to do)

Click to expand...

I've always gone by the reasoning, assembly lube is just that. I've always primed any new motor and just about everyone i know does the same thing, even if assembly lube was used. Majority of the time we never use assembly lube on the race motor. Just the good ole Kendall 50w, which is getting hard to find now.

 

LMan

Founding Member

Aug 10, 2002

1,246

0

0

Mom's basement

Feb 25, 2004

#14

• Feb 25, 2004

• #14

Cam Assembly lube, as I understand it, is actually not that good for the motor overall as it doesnt break down well during the heat of engine operation. In fact, I have been told (and I could be wrong) that a good reason for that first post-cam-break-in oil change is to help get the assy lube out of the motor (after it has done its job, which is essentially to make the cam's transition from dry to oil-lubed without disaster). The other, of course, is to catch as much of the metal shavings as possible after that first cranking.

The prime job should be fine as long as you dont wait forever to crank it after priming, which if so, you can always prime it again. I prime when Im about 5 mins or so from cranking, but again thats personal preference only. I also use STP for assy lube (other than the cam) for a cpl reasons - one, it does break down during motor operation, and two, its thincker than most motor oils and thus sticks to inverted surfaces and so on, so I dont have to worry about it running down to the pan while Im getting the motor installed.

I would like to hear from anyone who actually cranked a new motor on assy lube alone. That would rank with me with the guy who ate the first oyster

 

Edbert

Founding Member

Jul 13, 2002

3,548

32

109

Austin TX

Feb 25, 2004

#15

• Feb 25, 2004

• #15

I primed mine because it has been sitting for a few months, nothing more. I am probably still a ways away from starting it since I have no electrical system yet. I am working on that now (see http://www.edbert.net/brain.htm), and will probably swish some more oil throught it every few weeks until I am ready to fire.

 

G

GaPonyFarm

New Member

Jan 2, 2004

663

0

0

Columbus, GA

Feb 25, 2004

#16

• Feb 25, 2004

• #16

You might want to go to a junkyard and get an old, useless distributor... break off the top section, remove the gear, and remove eveything else, except the sleeve that fits into the block opening. You can then attach it to a drill and you have a great tool for pre-oiling. Most junkyards will just give you one, once they know what you're making.

 

S

speedy66

Founding Member

Jun 20, 2000

629

0

0

glendale,arizona,usa

Feb 25, 2004

#17

• Feb 25, 2004

• #17

did you drop the cross member to get at the pan?

Crap i pulled the motor back out to get the pan off.. DOH!!!!

 

Edbert

Founding Member

Jul 13, 2002

3,548

32

109

Austin TX

Feb 25, 2004

#18

• Feb 25, 2004

• #18

speedy66 said:

did you drop the cross member to get at the pan?

Crap i pulled the motor back out to get the pan off.. DOH!!!!

Click to expand...

I have a TCP rack and pinion which replaces the cross-member, so...yes-and-no

regarding the distributor method...I tried using one of the old 289/302 distros I have lying around to no avail. The shaft is too short for the 351 and the hex is too small. I guess I could look for an F-series in the junkyards if I don't hear back from WICKEDMACH (manager of local Autozone). Hello? Beuhler?

 

6

65 project

New Member

Mar 16, 2003

27

0

0

Feb 25, 2004

#19

• Feb 25, 2004

• #19

Before you get everything back together and crank it up, you might want to consider replacing that cork pan gasket. My experience with those gaskets is that once they have been compressed, they just don't seem to seal that well the next time you compress them.

 

Pakrat

Founding Member

Aug 6, 2000

3,843

0

56

Currently: NH Originally: Rhode Island (and all po

Feb 25, 2004

#20

• Feb 25, 2004

• #20

Man, wrong tool for the job will just about get ya everytime. Sorry you gotta go thru that again now, ugh. Smart move walking away for the night though.

I'll tell ya, the best $5 I ever spent was on a telescoping magnet. Basically like an antenna with a small magnet on the end powerful enough to grab (so far to my needs) a 3/4" long handle box wrench. That little guy has saved me from many a busted knuckle and coins in the swear jar.