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  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
  • Classic Mustang Specific Tech

*(&*&%#(#@ (don't do this!)

  • Thread starter Thread starter Edbert
  • Start date Start date Feb 24, 2004
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69 302/351c

Founding Member
May 29, 2001
1,147
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36
Walkertown NC, originally Western Mass
Feb 25, 2004
#21
  • Feb 25, 2004
  • #21
Just make sure the end of the telescoping magnet is screwed on tight before you stick it in somewhere. From experience!!
 

groovyash

Ask me about my chemically burned nipples!
Founding Member
Mar 8, 1999
754
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0
Pittsburgh, PA
Feb 25, 2004
#22
  • Feb 25, 2004
  • #22
FWIW I'm a big fan of just disconnecting the coil and letting the engine turn via starter for 15 seconds to prime the pump before starting. Having done it on a dozen motors I'm of the firm belief that the 40 RPM the engine is turning at via starter is no where near fast enough to build up any significant amount of heat/friction, and you've primed the pump without any fuss providing instant pressure upon startup.


Dan
 
M

my66coupe

Founding Member
Apr 30, 2002
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Arizona fountain hills
Feb 25, 2004
#23
  • Feb 25, 2004
  • #23
Oh god been there and done that myself too. Me and OboeBrian were getting my timing down a while back, and couldnt line up the oil pump shaft. soo we would have to rotate it a few degrees to have the distibutor line up. Anyways we were also using the screwdriver, extension and socket, and the extension and socket dropped deep into the dark oil pan below. Dropped the crossmember, oil and pan. and got that bugger out. Anyways after that I learned too keep the shaft connected to the distributor by using a really good adhesive, and about a year later it still holds. I have to break it off though soon so i can prime the engine.

Mike
 
B

bones0351

New Member
Feb 11, 2004
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0
0
Arizona
Feb 25, 2004
#24
  • Feb 25, 2004
  • #24
Ive found that a little RTV gasket maker will hold just fine, and is easy to clean up once your through with it.

By the Way thats a pretty nice looking bottom end. Is that some type of main cap brace you have on there?
 

Edbert

Founding Member
Jul 13, 2002
3,548
32
109
Austin TX
Feb 26, 2004
#25
  • Feb 26, 2004
  • #25
65PROJECT:
I thought I could get away with it once. Now that I am forced to drop it again I am planning on a new gasket. Any suggestions? There's got to be a better choice than cork.

BONES0351:
That is a girdle from DSS Racing, they were one of the first companies to manufacture these for SBFs. I had them build and blueprint my shortblock plus install/degree my cam. I did the easy part by assembling the long block
 

groovyash

Ask me about my chemically burned nipples!
Founding Member
Mar 8, 1999
754
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Pittsburgh, PA
Feb 26, 2004
#26
  • Feb 26, 2004
  • #26
Edbert said:
65PROJECT:
I thought I could get away with it once. Now that I am forced to drop it again I am planning on a new gasket. Any suggestions? There's got to be a better choice than cork.
Click to expand...

Pick up a Felpro set from a newer 302, the one piece rubber version, bit more expensive but alot nicer than cork.


Dan
 
6

65 project

New Member
Mar 16, 2003
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Feb 26, 2004
#27
  • Feb 26, 2004
  • #27
I was thinking that when we rebuilt my sons 289, that the pan gasket we used was made out of some kind of rubber type material. It was part of one of those rebuild gasket sets that you buy at auto parts stores. I know, it was the first one that I've seen that wasn't cork. I would call the auto parts stores and ask them what type of gaskets they carry. I have a little Triumph, so I've had alot of experience with leaks.

Terry
 
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