DOOE heads found; They're cheap!

89MustangGX · Dec 21, 2004

redrumracing01 said:
its a 74 351w form a ven ,i bought the motor from a freind it suposidly
is a omc boat motor its just the short block the heads arnet for sale
because they are on my 50 i dont know what the cond of the lower
end is but there is a ridge a the tops of the the cylinder bores the block
looks new the pistons had minor carbon build up on them it is a
flat tappet cam motor also its a 4v motor i also have the stock worthless
intake also if your interested or know any one who is pm me

Can you verify (through casting numbers I suppose) that it is in fact a 74 block? Condition of the internals wouldn't matter as if I was going to do something it would be all rebuilt anyway...the block itself would be the important part. What is the real condition of that? It is still all assembled or apart? TIA

redrumracing01 · Dec 21, 2004

the short block is still assembled the cyl bores just need to be honed theres
a ridge at the tops of the cyl.yes it is a 74 block
i have the block serial written down some where ill look for it so
youll know exactly what it is the pistons are pretty much useless they are
the stock deep dish cast pistons are the 74 351 blocks suposed to be tough
i was told it was from a van just from the seriel # so i guess that would be a
truck block

stock50LX · Dec 22, 2004

redrumracing01 said:
the short block is still assembled the cyl bores just need to be honed theres
a ridge at the tops of the cyl.yes it is a 74 block
i have the block serial written down some where ill look for it so
youll know exactly what it is the pistons are pretty much useless they are
the stock deep dish cast pistons are the 74 351 blocks suposed to be tough
i was told it was from a van just from the seriel # so i guess that would be a
truck block

Can you clean-off the top of a piston to see if the cylinders have been bored and how much. There should be a small number stamped on the piston: .030 or .060. Let us know what that number is please.

There is a 5.0 roller block at Pull a Part too, with heads but no intake.

stock50LX · Dec 22, 2004

redrumracing01 said:
stock50lx
give me a price for the porting and how long it would take you to
do them and if you have time of course,probly in end of jan or feb.thanks

Stage one is for $100. for my work -plus anything else your particular heads need or that you want to have done. I may need to send them out to get hot tanked ($60). You will probably need new guide seals (they're usually about 50 cents x 16). That will give you bowl blending and removal of the exhaust bump and I'll rework the exhaust runner. You should probably assume a total cost of about $180. and be happy if it ends up being less. You better figure that I need them for a week including a weekend. The weekend of Feb 5th is a bad one for me because I will be working that Saturday. You should realize some nice gains. You should pickup the Pull a Part DOOE's for spares and to use them while I am doing your others. You cannot beat the price.

You cannot use the E7's unless you drill out the 7/16 head bolt holes to 1/2 inch. You are better off with the DOOE's.

stock50LX · Dec 22, 2004

stock50LX said:
Stage one is for $100. for my work -plus anything else your particular heads need or that you want to have done. I may need to send them out to get hot tanked ($60). You will probably need new guide seals (they're usually about 50 cents x 16). That will give you bowl blending and removal of the exhaust bump and I'll rework the exhaust runner. You should probably assume a total cost of about $180. and be happy if it ends up being less. You better figure that I need them for a week including a weekend. The weekend of Feb 5th is a bad one for me because I will be working that Saturday. You should realize some nice gains. You should pickup the Pull a Part DOOE's for spares and to use them while I am doing your others. You cannot beat the price.

You cannot use the E7's unless you drill out the 7/16 head bolt holes to 1/2 inch. You are better off with the DOOE's.

OOps, I forgot that you have a 302. The E7's will be fine. I was mistakenly thinking you were running a 351.

5.0fox · Dec 22, 2004

i have 1.96 intake valves that were machined down form 2.02's because there wasnt much clearance. i just havent updated my sig in a while. unless you use perestal rockers like stock ones you will need guideplates. and if you have guideplates you will need to also get some hardened pushrods. and last but not least when using 351 heads on a 302 you will need to buy some hardened washers because the headbolts on 302's are smaller.

stock50LX · Dec 22, 2004

redrumracing01 said:
the short block is still assembled the cyl bores just need to be honed theres
a ridge at the tops of the cyl.yes it is a 74 block
i have the block serial written down some where ill look for it so
youll know exactly what it is the pistons are pretty much useless they are
the stock deep dish cast pistons are the 74 351 blocks suposed to be tough
i was told it was from a van just from the seriel # so i guess that would be a
truck block

351 blocks are all strong so that is not an issue. A '74 block has a two piece main seal -not the best, but I don't think an engine should be rejected because of it.

89MustangGX · Dec 22, 2004

stock50LX said:
351 blocks are all strong so that is not an issue. A '74 block has a two piece main seal -not the best, but I don't think an engine should be rejected because of it.

I hadn't really heard much about the different year blocks, just that in general the older ones were 'better.' Can you point me towards some info? -- maybe I've been looking in the wrong direction???

redrumracing01 · Dec 22, 2004

i will try to answer everyones questions yes i all ready have the washer kit
on my head bolts,i have al ready looked at the tops of the pistons no numbers
so they are most likly the stock pistons.also stock50lx are you able to cut
the valve seats for bigger valves and possibly hard seat the exaust valves
if possible. if anyone is interested in the 351, pm me im leaveing for california
tommarow mornig for x mas also i will go get the block casting # in a few minutes and i will be back on the 30th

stock50LX · Dec 22, 2004

redrumracing01 said:
i will try to answer everyones questions yes i all ready have the washer kit
on my head bolts,i have al ready looked at the tops of the pistons no numbers
so they are most likly the stock pistons.also stock50lx are you able to cut
the valve seats for bigger valves and possibly hard seat the exaust valves
if possible. if anyone is interested in the 351, pm me im leaveing for california
tommarow mornig for x mas also i will go get the block casting # in a few minutes and i will be back on the 30th

I don't have the machines to cut the seats for larger valves or to put in the hardened seats. I can take it to someone competent for that work; but I'd be happy if you had that part of the job done at a machine shop of your choosing. It needs to be done before I do the porting. If you have that work done, the heads will be clean by the time they get to me. Those heads already have 1.84 intake valves and 1.54 exhaust. Are you going to step up to 1.94's and 1.60's?

redrumracing01 · Dec 22, 2004

i will definitly step up the valve size if its worth it so do you know any compitent head shps in the bellvue area or in a 50 mile range. the block
casting number for any one whose interested is D4AE-6015-AA2

ironmedic · Dec 22, 2004

hey john, i should come by and visit your little workshop sometime so i can learn alot by watching. right now, i am gonna work on getting my little tools together and invest in air tools and a good compressor. for now, im gonna practice taking valves out LOL!

BTW thanks to all those who are giving up their old stuff to me for practice! u stangnet guys in the northwest are the best! i hope we can all get a really cool car meet together one day (even though dont have a stang right now but i at least own a ford!).

89MustangGX · Dec 23, 2004

redrumracing01 said:
the block
casting number for any one whose interested is D4AE-6015-AA2

A quick search of the internet gave me this:

D = 1970's
4 = 4th Year (1974)
A = 1958-Later Ford ???
E = Light Truck Engineering Department
6015 = Basic Part Number ???
AA2 = Revision ???

That's all I found so far, but it might be interesting to you as I'm learning about these.

stock50LX · Dec 23, 2004

89MustangGX said:
A quick search of the internet gave me this:

D = 1970's
4 = 4th Year (1974)
A = 1958-Later Ford ???
E = Light Truck Engineering Department
6015 = Basic Part Number ???
AA2 = Revision ???

That's all I found so far, but it might be interesting to you as I'm learning about these.

Yeah, it's a 74+ block. Not the low deck 69-70 block; it'll have a two piece rear main seal. I'd measure the bore size. Oversized pistons are not always stamped. It is unusual that it's never been rebuilt.

stock50LX · Dec 23, 2004

ironmedic said:
hey john, i should come by and visit your little workshop sometime so i can learn alot by watching. right now, i am gonna work on getting my little tools together and invest in air tools and a good compressor. for now, im gonna practice taking valves out LOL!

BTW thanks to all those who are giving up their old stuff to me for practice! u stangnet guys in the northwest are the best! i hope we can all get a really cool car meet together one day (even though dont have a stang right now but i at least own a ford!).

I don't like air tools for porting. I think you are better off with an electric die grinder. My workshop is my three car garage -I guess it's four cars since I get that many in. You are welcome to come by. I have ported heads holding down my workbench. I'll probably put them on my truck sooner or later.

stock50LX · Dec 23, 2004

redrumracing01 said:
i will definitly step up the valve size if its worth it so do you know any compitent head shps in the bellvue area or in a 50 mile range. the block
casting number for any one whose interested is D4AE-6015-AA2

I know nothing of Bellevue except that property values are high. Just take them to National on South Tacoma Way. They do well with valve jobs. You need to know how much this is going to cost. So you want: new valves, intake and exhaust ($150.) Intake seats cut for larger valves and new hardened exhaust seats ($180.) New seals and porting ($110.) Are you going to have screw in studs installed? You probably should. That would run $160 or so. All of these are estimates, but it gives you an idea. You should also have the valves back-cut $6 each (x16 =$96) It really helps with low lift flow. I'd sell you the ported hipo 289 heads that were on my 351 for less than the above total. They have everything done already (even more than above) and have 54cc chambers.

DOOE heads found; They're cheap!

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