Drilled Oil Pan....Need to get shavings out??

goldsmjr · May 30, 2005

I was in the process of tapping my oil pan to put the oil return bung in there for my supercharger, and it just wasn't working out. So I decided to drill the damn thing and of course I ended up getting shavings in the oil pan. What do you all suggest I do to clean up this mess? I was thinking maybe take some clean oil and just pour it through? Im sure there are some other ways to solve this....thats where all you guys come into play!
Thanks in advance
Jon

Matts89LX5.0 · May 30, 2005

i would change the oil

goldsmjr · May 30, 2005

I plan on doing that. But I think this is a serious problem....I really need to know exactly what to do and what may happen?????? Everybody's advice is appreciated.

TheUser · May 30, 2005

prob should have posted for tips on how to tap the pan instead of drilling it, but it's a little late for that

The only sure fire way I can see of getting all of the pieces out would be to drop the pan. I believe that involves some work; it's your decision.

You could buy a couple cases of the cheapo oil, pour it through, and get a magnet (maybe a telescoping magnet), to put up in there. I think some places also have some sort of magnetic thing to capture metal particles in the oil, but not quite sure how that works.

Good luck

331 stang91 · May 30, 2005

for the next couple of oil changes I would get a magnet that goes aroung the oil filter incase you don't get it all out. Not sure where to get them but know they are made.I'f you have the time to drop the pan I would do that. I would rather have a little down time droping the pan instead of messing up a motor!! Good luck let us know what you do

goldsmjr · May 30, 2005

That is what I plan to do for now, but isn't the oil filter supposed to filter that sorta stuff out? Also, when I pour the oil in, should I keep the bolt in to allow the oil to collect, or should i just pour it straight through?

sgarlic · May 30, 2005

As stated above, I'd use a small telescoping magnet up inside the hole, and use a strong magnet from the bottom of the pan, and drag it along the outside, toward the hole. Hopefully that will remove most of the shavings.

A second option (and probably what I would try,) would be to find some sticky rubberish substance on a roll (we call it Tacky-Tape in the Air Force,) wrap it around something bent to a 90 degree angle, which you could stick in the hole, then probe the pan with the sticky stuff, and hope it catches most of it.

And regarding your question, I would definately leave the bolt out when you flush it. If you leave the drain plug in, it'll allow the shavings to circulate (and probably end up stuck to the walls and other inaccessible places on the pan.) Right now, you probably only have a few shavings all gathered right around the hole.

tunedin302 · May 30, 2005

Was there oil in the pan when you driled it? Do you have a magneticdrain plug?

jrichker · May 30, 2005

Hasn't anyone ever thought about brazing a 1/4" pipe union on the pan? Next you punch a hole through the pan where the the pipe union was brazed on. No shavings and a nice leakproof way to connect an oil return line.

I think I would find some way to use bung in the pan for the low oil sensor. It isn't tied to the computer & is almost useless anyway.

BLOWN 5.0 FOX · May 30, 2005

a next best thing to dropping the pan is pulling your timing cover off- this gives your a 1"x8' (roughly) window to check out the situation and prodd around with a magnet. I would definetly suggest spending some money to flush out the system rather than cycling metal shavings through your oil feed to your blower. Good Luck

BaXTeR3221 · May 30, 2005

How are you planning to attach the fitting now that you've drilled it out? This is the last hang up on my blower install, so i'm curious what others have done.

cjman15 · May 30, 2005

jrichker said:
Hasn't anyone ever thought about brazing a 1/4" pipe union on the pan? Next you punch a hole through the pan where the the pipe union was brazed on. No shavings and a nice leakproof way to connect an oil return line.

I think I would find some way to use bung in the pan for the low oil sensor. It isn't tied to the computer & is almost useless anyway.

Where's that sensor? I don't really want to be drilling out my pan either.

ponyboy19 · May 31, 2005

My question is when your drill bit was spinning at full speed where all did it throw the shavings.. Did it fling them up onto your lower end? Who know's... Seems like everyone is assuming they are still in the bottom of the pan. well anywere there was an oil film would likely have caught shavings if they came in contact. Personally I would yank it and give it a good inspection and clean job. Then while the pan is off and clean I would weld fittings onto it since you drilled it and there sure isn't very much metal there to expect to thread (and last). While the pan was off I would also look higher for shavings and possibly run a magnet around and maybe flush with an oil can. After words I would run the motor with fresh oil for a minute and change it again right away. And I would do this without the blower hooked up so there wasn't any possiblity of shavings going to it. A lot of work but if it were me, I'd go the extra step.. Metal shavings and bearings don't mix IMO.

jrichker · May 31, 2005

cjman15 said:
Where's that sensor? I don't really want to be drilling out my pan either.

On my 89 GT, it is on the driver side aft sump. It is the only sensor on the oil pan.

Rick 91GT · May 31, 2005

ponyboy19 said:
My question is when your drill bit was spinning at full speed where all did it throw the shavings.. Did it fling them up onto your lower end? Who know's... Seems like everyone is assuming they are still in the bottom of the pan. well anywere there was an oil film would likely have caught shavings if they came in contact. Personally I would yank it and give it a good inspection and clean job. Then while the pan is off and clean I would weld fittings onto it since you drilled it and there sure isn't very much metal there to expect to thread (and last). While the pan was off I would also look higher for shavings and possibly run a magnet around and maybe flush with an oil can. After words I would run the motor with fresh oil for a minute and change it again right away. And I would do this without the blower hooked up so there wasn't any possiblity of shavings going to it. A lot of work but if it were me, I'd go the extra step.. Metal shavings and bearings don't mix IMO.

I have to agree here...you know should PULL the pan.

1 small sliver can cause a bearing failure, I just finished a motor for a guy who did it. Did everything as directed,Tapped the pan, grease in the flute, ran a magnet up in the pan, poured through oil to ensure it was clean, etc..

Car started to lose oil pressure and after pulling the filter off and inspecting the media I found lots of bearing material. After getting the bottom end apart I could see how some debris had come up through the oil holes in the crank to the bearings and trashed the rod and main bearings.

On all aftermarket oil pan I either weld in a bung or I use a bulkhead fitting through the pan, make things much easier down the road.

USING EXISTING OIL SENSOR HOLE

Can't be used since it is below the oil level in the pan, the drain fittings for the supercharger need to be above the oil level, about 1.5" down from the rail if I remember correctly.

92GreenGT · May 31, 2005

Pull the pan, it will save you a lot of headaches. The whole point in punching the pan is rolling the metal back so you you will have some material to tap threads into. Now you wont have anything for your fitting to screw into. I would recommend pulling the pan and cleaning everything real good and getting a fitting welded on the pan for a drain hose to go over.JMHO

cjman15 · May 31, 2005

jrichker said:
On my 89 GT, it is on the driver side aft sump. It is the only sensor on the oil pan.

Definately should be in tha same spot for mine too. Sweet.
...but since I can't use it anyhow... haha

tunedin302 · May 31, 2005

For anyone wondering about how to install a return line to a pan still in the car:

DO NOT DRILL THE PAN!!!

cjman15 · May 31, 2005

I don't understand how you do it tha other ways... what do you punch it with and how does it not go into tha tank too??

Rick 91GT · May 31, 2005

cjman15 said:
I don't understand how you do it tha other ways... what do you punch it with and how does it not go into tha tank too??

When you use a punch, you are actually poking a hole in the pan, then I use a large diameter punch and mark the diameter on the punch I need to acheive for the fitting. By beating the punch in the pan you are actually stretching the metal into the pan and it gives a surface for the tab to actually cut teeth into. If you pack the flutes on the tap it does help retain a lot of the chips, I have done it quite a few times but it makes me nervous every time. Just don't go to big or the fitting will be loose and leak like a sive.

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