Drilled Oil Pan....Need to get shavings out??

[crazypete]

If it works and it can be done "invisibly" then it's not ghetto. You can sacrifice the stick tube and bend it under so the metal tube passes under the headers and exits facing front of the engine. Then this "assembly" is invisible with some neat tucking of hoses. Sure is a lot easier than trying to drill a piece of the engine that cannot be removed without engine lifting.

Yeah, some of the aftermarket FMS timing chain covers for use with mech fuel pumps have a dipstick hole drilled in the PS wing of the tc cover. It's great if you ever wanted an oil fountain or want to engage in a continuous oil change

Actually.......would this not also be another solutiuon? Get an aftermarket TC cover with this dipstick hole and use it as described above. Put a short line from the SC back down the side of the motor to the dipstick hole on the TC cover.

 

[Michael Yount]

That's what I was thinking Pete - leave the stock dipstick assembly as it is; and use one of the covers for the mech. fuel pump/dipstick for your oil return. You could either use the dipstick tube on the cover, or block it off and make a cover for the fuel pump with the proper fitting in it. A very "unghetto" approach I think.

I think what the other guy was referring to was to have to pull the drain hose off everytime you wanted to check your oil level. Might work for some - wouldn't work for me.

 

[mustangdaren]

I left the oil in the pan as directed by Vortech. I marked the whole as indicated in the instructions. I used a small sharp punch to make a 1/4 inch hole. I then used a larger punch with a long taper to open the whole larger. Every 1/2 inch it would go in I would cut it off and then open the hole some more to prevent it from hitting the crank until I reached a 9/16 inch whole. I used a tap packed with #2 grease. It got probably 95% of the shavings out. I then used a magnet around the whole to get any shavings in the area. After that I drained the pan and changed the filter. Filled it up with some cheap oil and drained it again. I filled it up again and took it for a drive up the road and back then drained and changed the oil and filter again. After that I filled it up with synthetic and it has been going for 2 years so far with no problems. Installing the oil drain was the easiest part of the install. It took me 3 times as long to get the stupid fuel lines disconnected to install the FMU. Cheap plastic fuel line disconnect tools suck.

 

[BaXTeR3221]

just drill a hole then get yourself an -AN fitting like THESE and weld it to it.. No different then when I welded them to my aluminum valve covers for breathers.. Then you could run steel braided hose from the blower to the cover and look good too. But if the thickness is there I would just drill and tap it and use an NPT to AN fitting and connect some steel braid hose.

Excuse my retardedness, but how does the hose attach? i assume it goes into the back whichever fitting isn't welded to the cover and then screws into the other fitting?

 

[ponyboy19]

Excuse my retardedness, but how does the hose attach? i assume it goes into the back whichever fitting isn't welded to the cover and then screws into the other fitting?

If I was going to try and do it on the TC cover, I would drill the correct size hole and weld a Male -an fitting over it on the cover.. Then I'd use I'm guessing -4an hose and attach the correct hose ends to it and simply screw it on the fitting that is installed to the cover. On the blower side I would get the correct fitting(s) I'm guessing the blower fitting would need to be a npt to -an fitting and screw it in and connect the hose onto it.

If you didn't want to weld the fitting on, you could drill and tap it, then get the proper NPT to -AN fitting reducer and just screw that into it and attach your hose to it. Either way would work as far as the hose connections are concerned.