Drilled Oil Pan....Need to get shavings out??

Rick 91GT said:
When you use a punch, you are actually poking a hole in the pan, then I use a large diameter punch and mark the diameter on the punch I need to acheive for the fitting. By beating the punch in the pan you are actually stretching the metal into the pan and it gives a surface for the tab to actually cut teeth into. If you pack the flutes on the tap it does help retain a lot of the chips, I have done it quite a few times but it makes me nervous every time. Just don't go to big or the fitting will be loose and leak like a sive.

That's exactly how I did it. It really requires that you take your time but it's much easier than having to pull the pan to clean out shavings from drilling it. I even had to cut my punch because I feared that it would hit the crank with it being so long. After I punched the pan, then I just greased up an NPT tap and carefully tapped the threads. Took me a little bit of time but I wanted to do it right and not screw anything up. Some silione on the NPT fitting and no leaks.
 
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use a telescoping magnet, put one of those magnets in your oil filter (get from most oil change places)
pour oil through your block to drain it out,

thats about it, short of pulling the motor and dropping the pan.
 
def. should of asked for advice before you did it. A good way to do something like that is get some sticky grease and put it on the drill itself so when you do the tap most of the shavings stick to the grease. After that, there shouldnt be many shavings in the pan, and a fresh oil change should wash the rest out. But since you didnt, i would say drop the pan and wash it out, and put some fresh oil in it.
 
How do you plan to get it to the shop? If you crank it, you will still have the engine damage.

That part of s/c installation has always made me say "Not on my car".

I am sure that thousands of people have done this without issue. But then they are not lucky like me (un).
 
you can do it. You need to get a grease that is sticky, sticky enough to hold the shavings to the bit that you are using. I would be very hesitant to tap my oil pan to but it can be done, and you can do it. This is how alot of the supercharger kits work. The idea for the grease came from a write up on putting a S/C on a 350Z. You just have to be careful and take your time, and then give it a fresh oil change afterwards.
 
Pull the pan.

I've never understood why folks don't run oil return lines into the front cover. You can easily pull it off to modify it with the proper fitting - and you can place the fitting low enough to handle gravity drains on any of the supercharger/turbocharger mounts I've seen.
 
BaXTeR3221 said:
I'm stuck at this point right now. I dont want to tap it because i know i will mess it up. And every garage i talk to tells me that there is no way that it can be tapped and hold. Very frustrating.

You won't mess it up .... if you take your time making sure you use the correct tools in the process. The old saying meaure twice and cut once applies here. It is easy in retrospect, just a little nerve racking. Let me know if I can offer any help.
 
Michael Yount said:
Pull the pan.

I've never understood why folks don't run oil return lines into the front cover. You can easily pull it off to modify it with the proper fitting - and you can place the fitting low enough to handle gravity drains on any of the supercharger/turbocharger mounts I've seen.

thats not a bad idea. you could modify a seprate cover and get it all ready to bolt on.
 
Michael Yount said:
Remember - the front cover is aluminum - so welding it will likely not be possible; most of the fittings are not made out of aluminum.

just drill a hole then get yourself an -AN fitting like THESE and weld it to it.. No different then when I welded them to my aluminum valve covers for breathers.. Then you could run steel braided hose from the blower to the cover and look good too. But if the thickness is there I would just drill and tap it and use an NPT to AN fitting and connect some steel braid hose.
 
Having just replace my dipstick tube since it was barfing oil from the front cover dipstick mount, why doesnt one just have a rubber fuel hose going from SC oil discharge then slipping over dipstick tube. It's already there and above the oil level and judging from the look of my driveway, can "flow" quite a bit of oil in a hurry =P

Then slip the dipstick over the top of the radiator for stoarge and keep a rag for wiping it off when needed and a squeeze clamp so you can yank the oilhose to perform dipsticking actions.

Just a crazypete idea.
 
crazypete said:
Having just replace my dipstick tube since it was barfing oil from the front cover dipstick mount, why doesnt one just have a rubber fuel hose going from SC oil discharge then slipping over dipstick tube. It's already there and above the oil level and judging from the look of my driveway, can "flow" quite a bit of oil in a hurry =P

Then slip the dipstick over the top of the radiator for stoarge and keep a rag for wiping it off when needed and a squeeze clamp so you can yank the oilhose to perform dipsticking actions.

Just a crazypete idea.

thats the "ghetto way" most people are looking for a more practical solution.


front cover dipstick mount?? :scratch: