• Mustang Forums
  • 2005 - 2014 S-197 Mustang -General/Talk-
  • 2005 - 2009 Specific Tech

Drive-Shaft Loop

  • Thread starter Thread starter xtweakerx
  • Start date Start date May 12, 2008
  • 1
  • 2
Next
1 of 2 Next Last

xtweakerx

New Member
Feb 26, 2007
411
0
0
Jupiter,FL
May 12, 2008
#1
  • May 12, 2008
  • #1
lookin for a place to find a two piece drive shaft loop for the stock 07 shaft that is two-piece without spending a fortune.. i mean BMR"s package is $229, a lot of money for flippin drive shaft loop.

i dont plan on changing the shaft out for awhile due to money to a single so i have to stick w/ the double for now.

This summer, 4:10's and U/C & L/C arms are going in.

So i expect to get into the 12's this fall when my track re-opens w/ new surface.
 

DarkFireGT

Playing with my wife's really makes me want one.
10 Year Member
May 23, 2004
692
10
89
East Moline, IL
May 12, 2008
#2
  • May 12, 2008
  • #2
Really, all you need is a front loop. If you drop the rear of the driveshaft, it'll just drag on the ground. If you drop the front, that's where you would have troubles. I've only seen a handful of people running a rear loop.
 

xtweakerx

New Member
Feb 26, 2007
411
0
0
Jupiter,FL
May 12, 2008
#3
  • May 12, 2008
  • #3
ah, ok.. i thought it was the rule if you went 12's w/ a two piece shaft to have a rear loop?

i kno my track is pretty loose on the rules so i wanted to get one just for safety purposes. any recommandations on an easy front loop then for the stock shaft w/ no drillin?
 

DarkFireGT

Playing with my wife's really makes me want one.
10 Year Member
May 23, 2004
692
10
89
East Moline, IL
May 12, 2008
#4
  • May 12, 2008
  • #4
Technically, you're supposed to have a front and rear with a 2 piece, but I've never heard of anyone getting busted for it, and if you think about it, there's not much safety risk if the rear drops. It's just going to dangle and drag against the concrete. If you break the front without a loop, you could hit a bump and lift the front end up, or it could put street on the middle joint, break off, and fly off, hurting someone, busting a tire, etc... It sounds like you plan on eventually going with a one piece driveshaft, and right now you're not pushing a bunch of HP, so you shouldn't break the DS anyway.

The BMR one requires no drilling and is simple to install, but I would recommend making a 1/4" spacer between the loop assembly and the bracket. The loop hits the bottom of the shifter arm in 1st, 3rd, and 5th with the stock shifter. It only hits in 1st with a Hurst shifter. But you can easily make a spacer for it. Otherwise, the rest of them require drilling.
 

xtweakerx

New Member
Feb 26, 2007
411
0
0
Jupiter,FL
May 12, 2008
#5
  • May 12, 2008
  • #5
are their any that do Not hit the shifter arm?

even if they do require drilling?

What about the one , on steeda's web site?

Shown here -
http://www.steeda.com/products/driveshaft_loop.php

161-M-5478-S197
Driveshaft Loop - '05-'08 $109.95
 

xtweakerx

New Member
Feb 26, 2007
411
0
0
Jupiter,FL
May 12, 2008
#6
  • May 12, 2008
  • #6
or what about these, any of these will hit the shifter arm?

http://www.jegs.com/i/Ford Racing/397/M-5478-S197/10002/-1
(ford racing)

http://www.jegs.com/i/Granatelli/467/GMDSL0507/10002/-1
(granatelli)

http://www.jegs.com/i/Roush Performance/832/401876/10002/-1
(rousch)
 

xtweakerx

New Member
Feb 26, 2007
411
0
0
Jupiter,FL
May 12, 2008
#7
  • May 12, 2008
  • #7
i spoke to steeda they use the ford racing one... urghh

i wish i could find someone who has used it to know if it bangs the shifter arm.
 

StonePony

New Member
Jan 10, 2006
218
0
0
May 12, 2008
#8
  • May 12, 2008
  • #8
Dont believe for a minute that if you blow a rear u-joint that the driveshaft will just drag on the ground. I dont know where Darkfire GT came up with that idea, but let me tell you what happened to my car when the rear u-joint blew and I had no loop:
1967 GTO running through the gears at the track. I shift to 4th and somewhere aroung 110 MPH my drivehshaft u-joint let go. The driveshaft slammed in to the ground and back up in to the car and took out my whole drivetrain:
bell housing (cracked)
transmission (case cracked in half)
shifter (linkage bent)
driveshaft (twisted)
12 bolt rear-end
6 teeth off ring gear
pinion bent
axle bent
axle tube busted
damage to entire floorpan

I was lucky the car did not go in to the wall.
So if I was you i would put on two loops and bite the bullet and just pay for them because it is a cheap insurance policy.
 

xtweakerx

New Member
Feb 26, 2007
411
0
0
Jupiter,FL
May 12, 2008
#9
  • May 12, 2008
  • #9
StonePony said:
Dont believe for a minute that if you blow a rear u-joint that the driveshaft will just drag on the ground. I dont know where Darkfire GT came up with that idea, but let me tell you what happened to my car when the rear u-joint blew and I had no loop:
1967 GTO running through the gears at the track. I shift to 4th and somewhere aroung 110 MPH my drivehshaft u-joint let go. The driveshaft slammed in to the ground and back up in to the car and took out my whole drivetrain:
bell housing (cracked)
transmission (case cracked in half)
shifter (linkage bent)
driveshaft (twisted)
12 bolt rear-end
6 teeth off ring gear
pinion bent
axle bent
axle tube busted
damage to entire floorpan

I was lucky the car did not go in to the wall.
So if I was you i would put on two loops and bite the bullet and just pay for them because it is a cheap insurance policy.
Click to expand...


do you know if the BMR Kit, would interfere w/ the stock shifter arm?

is it a fact it it will bang?

or what about the ford racing kit?
 

DarkFireGT

Playing with my wife's really makes me want one.
10 Year Member
May 23, 2004
692
10
89
East Moline, IL
May 12, 2008
#10
  • May 12, 2008
  • #10
Meh.. it's not nearly as dangerous as not having a front loop. Even with a 1 piece and a front DSL, or two-piece and a rear DSL, you're going to have damage if you break something. It's the nature of the beast.

Obviously, it's most safe to have both. But the front is more critical than the rear. And as I stated, few people are running a rear DSL on a lightly modified car.

I can tell you with most certainty that the BMR piece hits the shifter. I have it. But as I stated, it's an easy fix. The CHE piece requires drilling, but it's all done under the car, so you don't need to pull up the carpet or anything.
 

xtweakerx

New Member
Feb 26, 2007
411
0
0
Jupiter,FL
May 12, 2008
#11
  • May 12, 2008
  • #11
I dont have a problem drilling if i dont have to deal w/ the bangin or anything..

do you know if the CHE has had any clearance/bangin issues?
 

kooldawg6

mine works really well and can take a fair amount
Aug 31, 2006
1,679
2
38
Central VA
May 12, 2008
#12
  • May 12, 2008
  • #12
I could see having a F/R loop for the OEM 2-piece...in case the middle joint breaks and the back half drops down(not really different than having no loop and the front of a 1-piece dropping, just shorter).
 

xtweakerx

New Member
Feb 26, 2007
411
0
0
Jupiter,FL
May 12, 2008
#13
  • May 12, 2008
  • #13
I'm leaning towards the granatelli kit right now, cuz for Front and Rear its only 180 and the design looks old school as it should not cause any rubbing or banging also a local guy sent me pictures of his setup and he says it does not bang or rub.

 

DarkFireGT

Playing with my wife's really makes me want one.
10 Year Member
May 23, 2004
692
10
89
East Moline, IL
May 12, 2008
#14
  • May 12, 2008
  • #14
I would never buy another GMS product personally. Too many bad experiences out there. Also, is it just me, or is that rear loop really far forward? That'd be fine for a 1 piece, but it doesn't look like it would do a whole lot of good for the back half of the shaft anyway.

The CHE piece does not hit the shifter. As far as I know, the BMR one is the only one that has had complaints.
 

xtweakerx

New Member
Feb 26, 2007
411
0
0
Jupiter,FL
May 12, 2008
#15
  • May 12, 2008
  • #15
hmmph, im maybe leanin towards the CHE frontal loop.

i mean hell i have no loop now so having one would be safer than none

And as time goes on ill replace the two piece for a single.
 

StonePony

New Member
Jan 10, 2006
218
0
0
May 13, 2008
#16
  • May 13, 2008
  • #16
I have the GMS kit. It is very easy to install. It mounts using the existing shield studs and is in two pieces so there is no need to remove the driveshaft.
 

xtweakerx

New Member
Feb 26, 2007
411
0
0
Jupiter,FL
May 13, 2008
#17
  • May 13, 2008
  • #17
Stone pony, what do you think about the GMS kit? Is it good, a lot people bash GMS.

Are you using the stock 5 speed shifter and/or shaft? Have u had any problems of banging?
 

DarkFireGT

Playing with my wife's really makes me want one.
10 Year Member
May 23, 2004
692
10
89
East Moline, IL
May 13, 2008
#18
  • May 13, 2008
  • #18
Honestly, if the items fit fine as he said, I wouldn't worry about it. It's not a component that sees stress like suspension and other pieces. But because of the quality (more like lack of) of their other pieces, I choose not to give my money to GMS.
 

NastyStang113

New Member
Sep 12, 2008
1,567
1
0
Florida
May 16, 2008
#19
  • May 16, 2008
  • #19
It's a good idea to have both but without a doubt the front is much more important than the rear. The driveshaft, if you don't have a rear loop, will hit the ground and just as quick bounce up and hit the bottom of your car and whatever else ends up in it's path.
 

DarkFireGT

Playing with my wife's really makes me want one.
10 Year Member
May 23, 2004
692
10
89
East Moline, IL
May 17, 2008
#20
  • May 17, 2008
  • #20
This is true, but if the front drops, it's going to put a lot of force back on the car, which could cause you to lose control, or the front end to lift. There's no doubting that both is best, even with a 1 piece. But if you are only going to get one, it's safe to assume the front is the one to get (which is why most companies only make the front one).
 
  • 1
  • 2
Next
1 of 2 Next Last
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Drive Shaft/Rear Diff Issue on 2014 GT
  • DudeStang
  • Jun 16, 2025
  • 2010 - 2014 Specific Tech
Replies
11
Views
1K
2010 - 2014 Specific Tech Jan 21, 2026
gkomo
Tuners come on inside
  • squeak93
  • Feb 13, 2026
  • SVT Tech Forum
Replies
1
Views
214
SVT Tech Forum Feb 20, 2026
squeak93
D
2008 Bullitt take-off parts (muffs & shaft)... recycle or resell?
  • D-Tex
  • Nov 3, 2024
  • What is it Worth?!?!?
Replies
4
Views
337
What is it Worth?!?!? Nov 3, 2024
D-Tex
D
J
2004 Mustang 3.8L V6 vibrations above 65 MPH and differential leaks
  • joeybuddy96
  • Mar 16, 2026
  • SN95 V6 Mustang Tech
Replies
12
Views
371
SN95 V6 Mustang Tech May 5, 2026
joeybuddy96
J
SOLD For Sale '92 LX Street/Drag car - WV
  • MikeyMustang
  • Apr 12, 2025
  • Fox Body Mustangs For Sale (1979-93)
Replies
4
Views
2K
Fox Body Mustangs For Sale (1979-93) Dec 31, 2025
MikeyMustang
Share:
Bluesky Email Share Link
  • Mustang Forums
  • 2005 - 2014 S-197 Mustang -General/Talk-
  • 2005 - 2009 Specific Tech
Menu
Log in

Register

  • Forums
  • What's new
  • Media
  • Resources
  • Contact
  • Sponsor
X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?

X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?