There's a way to check your rear gear ratio if you don't know, but you'll have to remove the drive shaft from the third member yoke and have the rear end up on jackstands to do it.
Well, with the jackstands under the car so the rear wheels are in the air and the driveshaft removed from the rear yoke (leave the front end in the tranny unless you want a big nasty puddle, and make sure you don't loose the caps off the u-joint that are no longer in the yoke, use masking tape wrapped around the yoke and the end of the driveshaft to keep them on), first turn one of the wheels either direction and see what the other wheel does. Chances are, it's either not spinning, or going in the opposite direction, you most likely have a single trac rear end, meaning, if you do a burnout, only the right rear tire will spin, aka a peg leg. Now, you need to line up your yoke on the rear end in a manner that you can see and be able to count it's rotation in relationship to the rotation of one of the tires. Most likely crawl under the car from the driver's side so you can put your knee up against the driver's side tire. Make a mark on the inside, or the tread side of the passenger side tire so that you can see it when it comes around again. What your going to do is turn the yoke and count the number of times it rotates to the one rotation of the tire. Lightly put your left hand on the pass. side tire and turn the yoke with your right hand. If the yoke goes around 3 times, you have a 3.00:1 rear gear. If it goes around about 2 3/4 times, you have a 2.80:1 gear, or if its 3 1/4 times, a 3.25 gear. A 4.11:1 would be about 4 1/8 times.
Sure, let me find them first. I used to have a whole spare 8" rear end, well, come to think of it, I guess I still do. The housing (welded to the leaf springs as I couldn't find any u-bolts) is in my '63 Fairlane serving to make it a roller until I get my 9" big web truck housing narrowed. The axles are in my shed, but if I remember correctly, I don't think they have any studs in them. (or is that a pair of 9" axles I have ....) and the center section, I believe, is sitting under my bench with loose caps.
lol, sounds like u got lots of little goodies laying around hehe. this is my first car and also first time doing this sorta stuff basically, so i'm learning as i go. too bad i don't have an extra pair of axles laying around like you do haha
no big hurry on them, i have another car i drive, when the mustang is out of action.
how much did you say u'd want for them?
i'd need new bearings and seals i assume?
the studs aren't too hard to put in the rear hub is it? (.....if the 8" axles u have are the ones w/o studs )
Well, the studs aren;t bad, especially if the axles are out. You just push then into the back, and put a wheel on there and use the lug nuts to pull them thru until they seat.
The seals go into your housing ends, and for the price and ease of installation, worth the money since your there already.
I'm not sure of the condition of the bearings. The rear end came out of a street rod, but was originally in a '65-'66 Mustang or a Falcon. The bearings are sealed and they press on to the axle, most people don't have a press, so you'd have to get a shop to take the old ones off and put the new ones on.
I never did say how much I wanted for them. Make an offer.
If they don't have studs, and you want new ones, and if you want the bearings changed out to new ones, if you'll pay for what they cost, I'll put them on for you. I've got a buddy with a press. I'd clean them up with a wire brush front side and back and I'd paint the back side of them after the studs are installed, but I'd just spray some WD-40 on the front sides to prevent flash rust.
You might let me know of anything else you might need that's original, I had a parts car that I took a ton of stuff off of. Shipping would be easier that way.
well, i think u said earlier that 28 spline axles for a 8" would be like 20 dollars since they are so easy to obtain. But, since you'd clean em up and put new studs on and a new bearing if it was no good, I'd say like 30 dollars for the axles alone?
I've no idea what new bearings would cost. If you think the ones on them now are fine i guess those can wait.. I don't have a whole lot of money at the moment lol
erm, if you could tell me how much u think the bearings and seals would cost, aswell as the studs. and add that on the 30, so i have a rough estimate on what we're looking at.
do you also have a front drum hub assembly? i've been meaning to replace my driver side one...but haven't yet. lol
i did some research on autozones website. they have a Timken rear wheel bearing for 10 dollars a piece... then the seal is 3 dollars and the studs are a dollar a piece.. does that sound correct?
Sorry, I missed your reply. I guess I didn't scan down far enough on the board and missed it.
That sounds fine. Timken is the bearing you want also. I'll take the axles to my buddies chassis shop (he builds drag cars) and have him check the condition of the bearings. If he deems them to be okay, we won't replace them. I'm also hoping he'll have a spare box for shipping axles, if not, I'll have to make one up.
All I'm asking for is actual costs of new parts, the shipping and whatever, if any shipping materials I need to buy, plus whatever you offer for the axles. If the bearings are good and they have studs, then there are no new parts, other than I'd replace your seals, but they go into your housing ends.
As far as a hub, I don't have one of those. The car I parted out got hauled off before I could pull the front suspension, or the windsheild and rear glass out of it.
You might scour some salvage yards near you and try and find a set of disc brakes off a Granada. Although I think a Mavrick hub is the same as yours.
no worries on the front hub. I was planning on converting to disc's up front anyway, so thats why i haven't got a new one yet. lol didn't see the point.
It'll be next week before I can dig for those axles in my shed. I'm franticly trying to get a job out at work (I'm at work now) so I can leave tomorrow after work to go to St. Louis for WFC8. Won't be back until late Sunday.
66stangmeister: I noticed that you're in Lafayette. There's a Mustang salvage yard south of Baton Rouge, on the highway that runs through Gonzales, LA near the Tanger outlet mall. I dug up the directions from the Classic Mustang e-mail list, in case you're interested:
"Manchac Mustang" is in Manchac, Louisiana about 30-45 minutes south
east of Baton Rouge. If you're heading east on I-12 from Baton Rouge
get off at the Walker/Port Vincent exit and hang a left. (I'm not sure
of the exit number..I know Denham Springs is exit 10 and the exit
is about five miles east of that so I'm guessing exit 15.) You'll go about
5-7 miles until you hit a stop sign...turn right. From here on in, watch
your speed - Port Vincent police love speeders. Follow the road until you
come to a flashing light in Port Vincent proper...turn right. You'll cross
a bridge and the road will fork...take the right hand fork. He's down on
the right about 3-4 miles. Be prepared to pass it the first time around. I
did I before I knew exactly where he was located.
There are not many salvage yards that have older Mustangs for parts - check the place out when you have a chance.