6100-6200 is probably a little high. Do you have a dyno sheet? I can tell you exactly where to shift if you do.
Scott
Scott
Dropped in to 13's for the quarter mile
- Thread starter Pops Fun
- Start date
Pops Fun said:Hi,
Made 5 runs and various mistakes. 2 Runs dropped me to the high 13s and the best time was13.89.
Timeslip for 13.89
http://members.nuvox.net/~zt.steveh/mustang/3 timeslip.html
Four of the slips are at: http://members.nuvox.net/~zt.steveh/mustang/Timeslip_april.html
High Flow cats and Drag radials are the only changes between 14.71 and 13.89 Iam a Happy Man.
what all do you have done to your car?
mo_dingo said:
Hi,
My dyno is at
http://members.nuvox.net/~zt.steveh/mustang/dyno2.html
Any help would be appreciated, I was shifting before 6100 but it drifted higher between shifts.
Steve
haulbalz said:
My Mods:
Under Drive Pullies, Ford 3.73 Gear, Steeda Tri-Ax, Flowmaster Exhaust, Mac Shorty Header, TFS TW Heads, Steeda 19 Cam, Cobra Intake, FMS 65mm T/B, Pro-M 75MM MAF, Steeda 24# injectors, 1.7 Roller Rockers, MSD 6al, Blaster coil,
New: High Flow Catted H-Pipe and Drag Radials, Time down to 13.89 YEA!!!!!!!!!
Steve, if I were you this is what I'd do...
Instead of working on getting the launch down (which may take you a long time to do... it did for me on drag radials) start by launching at idle next time, but run with altered shift points. Make your first run shifting at say 5500, then 5750, then 6000 and see what happens to the 1/8th and 1/4 ET and MPH. Learn what shift point yields the best for you, once you know that THEN start working on the launch. This will make your time at the track more useful and should help you get quicker faster. Don't be afraid to shift it at 6250 if the car keeps getting faster. Also, run the car as cold as possible. The cooler it is the faster you will run, trust me. Make sure you shallow stage too, meaning pull forward only far enough to just trip the second stage beams, this can be worth a few hundreths as you get about a 6" head start before your time starts when the back of the wheel breaks the beam. HAVE FUN! You WILL get faster with more trips to the track.
Instead of working on getting the launch down (which may take you a long time to do... it did for me on drag radials) start by launching at idle next time, but run with altered shift points. Make your first run shifting at say 5500, then 5750, then 6000 and see what happens to the 1/8th and 1/4 ET and MPH. Learn what shift point yields the best for you, once you know that THEN start working on the launch. This will make your time at the track more useful and should help you get quicker faster. Don't be afraid to shift it at 6250 if the car keeps getting faster. Also, run the car as cold as possible. The cooler it is the faster you will run, trust me. Make sure you shallow stage too, meaning pull forward only far enough to just trip the second stage beams, this can be worth a few hundreths as you get about a 6" head start before your time starts when the back of the wheel breaks the beam. HAVE FUN! You WILL get faster with more trips to the track.
WHat do you mean by that? Doesn't matter how good your reaction time is it won't help your times at all. It will help you win in bracket racing though... Unless you mean between shifts... Then that would make sence.Pops Fun said:
Reaction time has nothing to do with 60 foot times. The clock starts when the car starts moving not when the green light flashes.
Jake
Jake
Similar threads
- Locked
