DSS 331 stroker rotating assembly anyone??

[Must5a0angGt86]

I am in the process by building up my 89 notch. I just got the engine pulled yesterday actually. I bought a set of AFR 165's and I wanted to rebuild the shortblock pretty much to stock specs just so I can drive it the rest of the summer.....Well plans change, lol. After looking into the machine work that has to be done to the block i figured that wasn't too much money to spend instead of buying a new one. But then I looked into getting the rods and the crank checked...then having all the machine work done that might have to be done, it wasn't a whole heck of a lot less then getting the 331 kit from dss, plus I won't need to worry about strength. I was just wondering if there was anyone in here that has any of thier stroker kits, and what thier experience was with them? Any help would be great! Help me get my stang on the road again!

Thanks a lot guys,
Josh

 

[TT91]

Im using their low comp 331 forged Twisted Wedge kit, awesome quality and great customer service. two thumbs up

 

[Must5a0angGt86]

Did you build your egine or did they. The reason i ask is I was just curious if there was any additional machine work that had to be done at all, or if ou just dropped it into the block and was good to go?

 

[nitrousED]

just notch the bottom of clyinder wall

 

[Must5a0angGt86]

Yeah, thats a given to noth the cylinder wall, I was just curious if there was anything extra that had to be done to put it all back together or if it was just a straight swap with your old rotating assembly. The only reason I ask is because I have done more than enough work to all of my cars to know that almost nothing is a direct bolt on or easy swap! lol

 

[Grn92LX]

Get a 347 stroker rotating assembly instead. Its the same price as a 331, but you'll easily get an extra 15-20hp from inches alone. I'd use the CHP kit which comes with a 5.315" rod, cast crank, probe forged pistons, bearings, rings and arp rod bolts. Machine work thats needed is, bore/hone with a tq plate, notch cyl walls, align hone the mains, magnaflux the block, sonic check it, deck the block and theres a bunch of other little odds and ends also depending how good a work you want done.

Whats your h/c/i combo gonna be? You also would need a 28oz balancer and flywheel and the rotating assembly would need to be balanced as well. I'm planning on a 347 as soon as I have the money. I'm pretty set on my combo as well

Mike

 

[Must5a0angGt86]

I just got AFR 165's, the engine is going from injected to carb'd. The carb is a Barry Grant 650 double pumper, and I was going to get in touch with ed curtis about an intake and cam combo for my setup. I will be getting another blancer, but I figured if the flywheel was in good shape I could reuse the stock one...maybe i am wrong though.

 

[nitrousED]

Yeah, thats a given to noth the cylinder wall, I was just curious if there was anything extra that had to be done to put it all back together or if it was just a straight swap with your old rotating assembly. The only reason I ask is because I have done more than enough work to all of my cars to know that almost nothing is a direct bolt on or easy swap! lol

as said below the normal stuff ,nothing different,kit went right in