dss pro306 or pro331

Joes95GT said:
Please, no one take offense to this:

Why a 331?

Joe
maybe because of the hype. and i recently seen the follow up on the " 331 ways to beat a Ls1". and i probably don't won't to spend another 500 or so on a 347(pro). the people at dss themselves even seem that they aren't to trusting of anything but the 331(pro).
 
Grn92LX said:
Look at other companys. You can get a 347 stroker shortblock cheaper from www.horsepowerengineering.com or www.coasthigh.com The price is the same for a 331 vs 347. Then it becomes 347 ways to smoke an LS1 ;) Dont beleive the "347's are bad for the street" hype you'll hear on the net. Its ALL in the machine work and build. God I want a 347 so bad I can taste it :(
i was wrong. the prices on the 331(pro) and the 347(pro) are identical. but i think that having a longer rod will have a tendency to break.in the links you gave me, none of those engines where cheaper pro vs pro(mid grade) than the dss engines, so do a check and see it yourself.
 
Your very wrong pal :) For a 347 shortblock built by HPE using the probe/coast high kit erik quoted me about $2200 WITH a main support. Thats ALL machine work, parts, balancing and labor. Thats with forged pistons, forged h beams and a cast crank. Forged cranks are HUGE waste on stock block combo's AND it adds more weight to the rotating assembly.

Thats about $200-300 LESS than dss. I'm willing to bet the machine work is better at erik's shop rather than dss. Its more of a 1 on 1 basis than building a bunch of engines in a day with less focus on tolerances. Believe me dude, I researched my balls off on this. I found these 2 places to be one of the best and affordable. I wouldnt buy into dss's "level 20" marketing spree. Its just a fully machined block IMO nothing special. Its just a stock block all prepped for a rotating assembly. I guess its a good buy since the machine work is done, but it isnt gonna make a stock block hold more power. Its nothing different than any good machine shop will probably do.
 
Grn92LX said:
Your very wrong pal :) For a 347 shortblock built by HPE using the probe/coast high kit erik quoted me about $2200 WITH a main support. .... Believe me dude, I researched my balls off on this. I found these 2 places to be one of the best and affordable. .....

Grn....
Since you researched this, can you tell me what heads you think would go best with that 347, and if you know the TOTAL price for the WHOLE long block?

Reason I'm asking:

If something on my engine blows, instead of spending $$$ here and there for fixes, I will just sell the Vortech, and get a great N/A setup. I would only be able to spend about $3k(plus what I get for the Vortech). I want to go with a 347 that I could "pound on" ANYTIME I want without worrying about blowing anything..but still stay ahead of the newer cars coming out. It would cost me more than I want to spend to do the other mods to convert to a 351.

I would appreciate NE info you have...
OH btw...could I keep my 70mm TB ;) :rlaugh:

RC
 
chrismillion said:
maybe because of the hype. and i recently seen the follow up on the " 331 ways to beat a Ls1". and i probably don't won't to spend another 500 or so on a 347(pro). the people at dss themselves even seem that they aren't to trusting of anything but the 331(pro).
My friend, you just bought into their marketing hype. Do you ever realize that DSS are the only people that really push the 331 over the 347.

Also, if they are charging 500 bucks more for the 347, I'd suggest going with a different company.

Joe
 
94GTLaserRC said:
Grn....
Since you researched this, can you tell me what heads you think would go best with that 347, and if you know the TOTAL price for the WHOLE long block?

Reason I'm asking:

If something on my engine blows, instead of spending $$$ here and there for fixes, I will just sell the Vortech, and get a great N/A setup. I would only be able to spend about $3k(plus what I get for the Vortech). I want to go with a 347 that I could "pound on" ANYTIME I want without worrying about blowing anything..but still stay ahead of the newer cars coming out. It would cost me more than I want to spend to do the other mods to convert to a 351.

I would appreciate NE info you have...
OH btw...could I keep my 70mm TB ;) :rlaugh:

RC


How much power do you wanna make? If your using a stock block i'd use an FTI stroker prepped 185 head with a TFS R or a victor intake and around 10.5-11:1 compression. I'd also look into a victor jr head. If your gonna build up a aftermarket block like a dart, i'd use NO less than an afr 205 and rev it a little higher. 1 3/4" longtubes and reuse your old injectors unless you do option 2 then upgrade to a 42lb.

No, you'll need a 65mm tb since those "big" heads kill all your velocity :lol: j/k!
 
Grn92LX said:
How much power do you wanna make? If your using a stock block i'd use an FTI stroker prepped 185 head with a TFS R or a victor intake and around 10.5-11:1 compression. I'd also look into a victor jr head. If your gonna build up a aftermarket block like a dart, i'd use NO less than an afr 205 and rev it a little higher. 1 3/4" longtubes and reuse your old injectors unless you do option 2 then upgrade to a 42lb.

No, you'll need a 65mm tb since those "big" heads kill all your velocity :lol: j/k!


I have 36's now....
I have AODE, so the longtubes are out.

I would want something FULLY assembled so I could just drop it in.

Also, I would just keep my Typhoon Intake, because it is "decent" and I would have to go lease expensive route possible....Maybe I could have the lower ported :shrug:

In terms of power, mid to high 300's to the wheels would be nice...It's still my daily driven vehicle.

OH, and I have a 70mm TB, so that could be a "happy medium" b/t the 65 and 75!
 
Rob, your thinking of going NA!?!? Wow! If you do it right, you should have just as was said above 350rwhp easily. You could keep your intake and t-body, add some AFR185 heads, a good cam (you know who I recommend!!!), and you'd be set. You'd be within your budget too.

Nik- a 342 and the 347 are the same, but the 342 maintains the stock bore.