Long story short...my boss is nick named captain unicorn ( he said he believed in them during a motivational meeting. Lol ). He also owns a vette that I've been privy to work on. I found this and have been thinking about wrapping my hood. It would look better than green fatigue paint...
I think it'll blend into the body color of my car. Any thoughts ?
I think it'll blend into the body color of my car. Any thoughts ?
No..I don't have to slam them but they don't just fall shut anymore.
You may need to adjust the striker a little. There should be cushion when closing but not a lot.
I did adjust my striker, now the door sticks out just a bit and is annoying to look at. I thought after time the seals would relax a bit but after a year that's not the case.
If you read the reviews on LMR's site you'll see that it's a very common problem with no real remedy accept to have your door stick out which makes it looks like you didn't close your door all the way
Yeah I figured that out finally, got lucky found nos seals on eBay and found the others in good condition in the salvage yard. Some silicon spray will make the seals last longer and more malleable
Nah, I see that LMR sells "original Ford production" door seals which all the reviews claim that the door closes as it should. Some of the reviewers claim they started out with the cheaper less expensive seals to only throw them in the trash and buy the better ones for more than twice the cost. This is what I'm ordering next.
Me too. I just remembered I never left a review for that order so I just went in earlier and gave them the ONE star that the product deserves. We will see what LMR will do based on that review. Hopefully they'll discount the amount from my previous purchase toward my replacement order for door seals.
@Tyler@LMR @ZIAD@LMR
You guys should read the last few posts and also the reviews for your product. LMR is awesome in so many ways but this seems to be an inferior product that may reflect poorly on your guys good name.
You guys should read the last few posts and also the reviews for your product. LMR is awesome in so many ways but this seems to be an inferior product that may reflect poorly on your guys good name.
The only difference I see in the seals are little air vent holes. Maybe somehow air gets trapped or it a way of relieving some of the push back.
The seal I have is of the cheaper variety and is working well, but I have no idea where the PO got them from. The package says emustangs.com for the window run channels.
The seal I have is of the cheaper variety and is working well, but I have no idea where the PO got them from. The package says emustangs.com for the window run channels.
Today I planned on shooting a video of my car driving and data logging. Needless to say that did not happen.
When I swapped everything in this car I checked to make sure everything worked.
The AC compressor engaged then when jumped. Since then I installed the mspnp2 and tucked my harness on the drivers side.
I go to the parts store and buy a big can of r134a...get to the house and it won't connect to my retrofitted low side. It just wouldn't work. I abruptly take it back to the store, all 43 dollars of it, but the hose was connected to the can. ( so it was trash ). It gets exchanged for another brand. The guy at the counter let's me keep the first one, too.
Then the issues evolve. I try the new can and it won't lock on just like the other can. I find the Schrader valve is partially unscrewed...from when I vacuum tested the system with my vacuum pump ( stupid me ). I tighten it up and the can locks on. The car gets started...fans cut on...spray the can in and............the AC clutch doesn't cut on.
Now, I'm getting frustrated just a little.
I go to the pressure switch and it has 12 volts going in....but no voltage coming out. Easy fix...shoot more freon in until it switches....OK....done...we have power. Still no AC clicking....not one single click.
Check the clutch switch and nothing at all...nothing...no power or ground. I back probe the AC cut relay and find no voltage there either.
Seems simple...bad relay. This is what a 28 year old AC cut relay looks like inside...
Needles to say it is a little corroded....the picture was taken after cleaning it with electrical cleaner and a wire brush.
Since I had it apart I checked for continuity from the connector to the AC clutch...all good there. With the key and ac on the pressure switch has batt + in and out, the relay has battery + at the red and pink/ blue, the black/ green has nothing, and the orange/blue ( computer trigger ) is ground.
Now I'm getting
I pull the computer trigger ground and the relay clicks...sending power to the clutch but still no dice.
I'm
Black/ green at AC clutch has batt+....black/ yellow nothing. I immediately go to the driver side corner behind the strut tower and find black/ yellow....what do ya know...my power probe lights up green ( meaning ground ).
Now I'm beyond mad....I'm at a point there is no emoji for....
This means I have to remove the drivers side fender....which I do. The probing begins again. Apparently, while running the AC wires through a home in the strut tower they pulled a little. Just enough to pull out of one of the crapiest looking butt connectors I've ever seen. How did I miss that thing for the 12 years that this harness has been in my vehicles ?
The piece of junk wasn't even crimped all the way. I correctly fixed the wire and my AC clutch cut on, finally.
While I was under there I replaced my shabby fuse holder for my sound system with a much better one. That worked out well.
Now, the issue with my AC cut out relay. From looking at the relay it seems that the relay is supposed to be closed normally transferring power to the AC clutch from the pressure switch. When the computer senses full throttle it grounds the relay control side opening the circuit ( cutting off the AC clutch ). If pressure gets too high or low the pressure switch cuts off the power to the AC clutch.
The only way my AC works is to pull the trigger wire from the relay so the computer is not supplying ground.
@a91what is there a setting for the AC output from the mspnp2 ? I've been searching but can't find much info.
Obviously, I'm replacing the relay but by opening it up I got it clean enough to function.
Rain tomorrow so maybe sometime later this week I can get a video and data log going
When I swapped everything in this car I checked to make sure everything worked.
The AC compressor engaged then when jumped. Since then I installed the mspnp2 and tucked my harness on the drivers side.
I go to the parts store and buy a big can of r134a...get to the house and it won't connect to my retrofitted low side. It just wouldn't work. I abruptly take it back to the store, all 43 dollars of it, but the hose was connected to the can. ( so it was trash ). It gets exchanged for another brand. The guy at the counter let's me keep the first one, too.
Then the issues evolve. I try the new can and it won't lock on just like the other can. I find the Schrader valve is partially unscrewed...from when I vacuum tested the system with my vacuum pump ( stupid me ). I tighten it up and the can locks on. The car gets started...fans cut on...spray the can in and............the AC clutch doesn't cut on.
Now, I'm getting frustrated just a little.
I go to the pressure switch and it has 12 volts going in....but no voltage coming out. Easy fix...shoot more freon in until it switches....OK....done...we have power. Still no AC clicking....not one single click.
Check the clutch switch and nothing at all...nothing...no power or ground. I back probe the AC cut relay and find no voltage there either.
Seems simple...bad relay. This is what a 28 year old AC cut relay looks like inside...
Needles to say it is a little corroded....the picture was taken after cleaning it with electrical cleaner and a wire brush.
Since I had it apart I checked for continuity from the connector to the AC clutch...all good there. With the key and ac on the pressure switch has batt + in and out, the relay has battery + at the red and pink/ blue, the black/ green has nothing, and the orange/blue ( computer trigger ) is ground.
Now I'm getting
I pull the computer trigger ground and the relay clicks...sending power to the clutch but still no dice.
I'm
Black/ green at AC clutch has batt+....black/ yellow nothing. I immediately go to the driver side corner behind the strut tower and find black/ yellow....what do ya know...my power probe lights up green ( meaning ground ).
Now I'm beyond mad....I'm at a point there is no emoji for....
This means I have to remove the drivers side fender....which I do. The probing begins again. Apparently, while running the AC wires through a home in the strut tower they pulled a little. Just enough to pull out of one of the crapiest looking butt connectors I've ever seen. How did I miss that thing for the 12 years that this harness has been in my vehicles ?
The piece of junk wasn't even crimped all the way. I correctly fixed the wire and my AC clutch cut on, finally.
While I was under there I replaced my shabby fuse holder for my sound system with a much better one. That worked out well.
Now, the issue with my AC cut out relay. From looking at the relay it seems that the relay is supposed to be closed normally transferring power to the AC clutch from the pressure switch. When the computer senses full throttle it grounds the relay control side opening the circuit ( cutting off the AC clutch ). If pressure gets too high or low the pressure switch cuts off the power to the AC clutch.
The only way my AC works is to pull the trigger wire from the relay so the computer is not supplying ground.
@a91what is there a setting for the AC output from the mspnp2 ? I've been searching but can't find much info.
Obviously, I'm replacing the relay but by opening it up I got it clean enough to function.
Rain tomorrow so maybe sometime later this week I can get a video and data log going