Brakes E brake doesn’t work on cobra brake swapped fox

[AnthonyA1234]

The e brake on my 92 gt with a cobra disc brake conversion barely works. To get it to somewhat work I have to pull it up as much as possible but if I’m on any sort of incline it does nothing. I got under the car and the driver side cable I see moving but the passenger is not. What is the procedure for fixing something like this?

 

[Rdub6]

I did a disc conversion myself, with GT rear discs, but my e brake doesn’t grab like it should either. Bought the new cables fromLMR for the conversion, still not much grab. Interested to see what comes of this thread!

 

[KRUISR]

Which cables did you get - LMR conversion pieces, 94/95 Mustang, 93 Cobra, stock 92 or some other aftermarket piece?

What e-brake handle are you using and is it modified?

How are you connecting e-brake cables to splitter cable?

 

[Rdub6]

Bought the conversion cables off of LMR. I’ll try to find the exact part in my purchase history. If I find, I’ll edit this post with the number.
On the ‘86, there is no conversion/ welding needed for the handle……. The new cables just have the correct end to attach to the new disc brakes as opposed to the drum. At the handle part, I’m using the original “t” or “splitter” whatever you want to call it. One connection from handle splitting to the two cables going to the calipers.
I can get it to grab, but there is still a slight roll on my driveway. Tighten the nut on the threaded rod gets it better, but at full adjustment, I still have slip.

Edit:
Here are the cables I used:

Mustang Rear Parking Brake Cable for Rear Disc Brakes (79-92)

Finish off your Mustang five lug conversion with these vital e-brake cables for rear disc brakes!

lmr.com

 

[AnthonyA1234]

Bought the conversion cables off of LMR. I’ll try to find the exact part in my purchase history. If I find, I’ll edit this post with the number.
On the ‘86, there is no conversion/ welding needed for the handle……. The new cables just have the correct end to attach to the new disc brakes as opposed to the drum. At the handle part, I’m using the original “t” or “splitter” whatever you want to call it. One connection from handle splitting to the two cables going to the calipers.
I can get it to grab, but there is still a slight roll on my driveway. Tighten the nut on the threaded rod gets it better, but at full adjustment, I still have slip.

Edit:
Here are the cables I used:

Mustang Rear Parking Brake Cable for Rear Disc Brakes (79-92)

Finish off your Mustang five lug conversion with these vital e-brake cables for rear disc brakes!

lmr.com

Where is that adjustment nut located?

 

[nickyb]

It's in the trans tunnel. Follow the cables from the rear foward , they will meet at the t and the nut is on the threaded stud/ cable that goes to e brake handle .

 

[AnthonyA1234]

I’ll try tightening that but I think it may be something more complicated since the passenger cable isn’t working. I’m thinking it might have rusted out.

 

[Mustang5L5]

What parts did you use for the parking brake? The center cable is adjustable and you reuse the original equalizer.

Tighten it up a bit more. Put the rear wheels up and turn them. Keep tightening the brake up until they start to drag and then back them off slightly.


I’ve found you really need to get to the edge of dragging to get the parking brake to hold.

When brand new, the cables stretch a tiny bit as well. I had to tighten mine three times before they stopped stretching and held very well.

 

[AnthonyA1234]

What parts did you use for the parking brake? The center cable is adjustable and you reuse the original equalizer.

Tighten it up a bit more. Put the rear wheels up and turn them. Keep tightening the brake up until they start to drag and then back them off slightly.


I’ve found you really need to get to the edge of dragging to get the parking brake to hold.

When brand new, the cables stretch a tiny bit as well. I had to tighten mine three times before they stopped stretching and held very well.

Not sure what the car has to be honest. I’ll take some pics when I can and also try tightening that nut.

 

[AnthonyA1234]

What parts did you use for the parking brake? The center cable is adjustable and you reuse the original equalizer.

Tighten it up a bit more. Put the rear wheels up and turn them. Keep tightening the brake up until they start to drag and then back them off slightly.


I’ve found you really need to get to the edge of dragging to get the parking brake to hold.

When brand new, the cables stretch a tiny bit as well. I had to tighten mine three times before they stopped stretching and held very well.

Here’s some pics from the back to front of the routing. Let me know what you think. I found the adjustment nut and it looks like it has some room for tightening so when I get the car off jack stands when I finish the suspension work I’m doing I’ll tighten it up and see what happens. Also, I just noticed this now, is that a aftermarket driveshaft cage I have or is that stock?

 

[rednotch]

Its an aftermarket drive shaft Loop, looks like a Lakewood or transdepo from what I can see.

. I've found that with the welded 2nd tooth paw and adjustable center cable on pre 93 cars it really depends on what cables you us with the factory splinter since there's more slop. On my 90 coupe I never welded the paw or used an adjustable center cable, i just fabbed a 93 style tunnel bracket and I can lock the e brake any time I want, its been like that since the 90s when it had a turbo couple disc rear till now with sn95 brakes on it. My current 93 beater has the adjustable center cable , welded paw and maybe 4 yr old BC94497 cables on it, Its towards the top of the range but I can still lock the rear with it and haven't adjusted it since I set it up..