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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-

E Brake Handle/disc Swap

  • Thread starter Thread starter billison
  • Start date Start date Oct 26, 2016

billison

I like tinted tail
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#1
  • Oct 26, 2016
  • #1
Ok, starting my swap this weekend.

Having a hard time finding the best solution for the e brake handle. Some say to cut the spring, ratchet to the 2-3 tooth and spot weld. Some say to swap in a sn95 handle...
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
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Oct 26, 2016
#2
  • Oct 26, 2016
  • #2
Funny, someone on one of the FB groups I'm on just asked the same question.


You can do either really, but you gotta pay attention. The purpose of welding the handle is to lock the self adjuster from moving. 99 times out of 100, it will never ever move, but that one case that it does can either cause your brakes to drag, or the e-brake to slightly loosen.

The is exactly what happened with the SN95 handles on 94-01. Ford had to issue a recall because some of the self-adjusters would slip, and the manual cars would roll. The fix? To lock the self adjuster. Basically they did the same thing as welding the pawl on the fox handle mods.

Ford did the fix around 2001, so plenty of unrecalled handles out there that I personally wouldn't want in my car. I'd just rather weld it as it's cheap and I already had the handle.

Now, if you could get a cheap SN95 cobra handle, they are leather wrapped, so a bit nicer than Fox handles, but I'd prob still tack weld the pawl.


Info on the recall
http://mon.garage.free.fr/mustang2001/bulletins/00S37.pdf
 

billison

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#3
  • Oct 26, 2016
  • #3
Yup, that's me on fb. I'll ask there for a fast answer and here for the RIGHT answer .

But sounds like welding and using the adjustable 3rd cable is best
 

HotFox

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Oct 26, 2016
#4
  • Oct 26, 2016
  • #4
I found the SN is a little larger pulley for more travel and leverage. Also it is not just a bolt in, it requires relocation of rear bolt mount.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
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#5
  • Oct 26, 2016
  • #5
billison said:
But sounds like welding and using the adjustable 3rd cable is best
Click to expand...

If you have access to a welder, it takes all of 10 mins and it's back in your car. You need to use the adjustable cable underneath anyway, so there is no benefit of going SN95 unless you want one of the Cobra handles.
 

billison

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#6
  • Oct 26, 2016
  • #6
Mustang5L5 said:
If you have access to a welder, it takes all of 10 mins and it's back in your car. You need to use the adjustable cable underneath anyway, so there is no benefit of going SN95 unless you want one of the Cobra handles.
Click to expand...


Any reason not to tack it while in the car?
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
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#7
  • Oct 26, 2016
  • #7
No, you can certainly do it on a car. I'd probably disconnect battery and pull the EEC beforehand. I just took it out because I had to install the new cables anyway. Was either to weld on a bench. Just need a small tack. Nothing crazy.
 

billison

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#8
  • Oct 26, 2016
  • #8
Just for conversation, I could drill and use a bolt as well right?
 

elarm1

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#9
  • Oct 26, 2016
  • #9
Just weld it. I took mine to a local exhaust shop and they did it for lunch money
 

billison

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#10
  • Oct 26, 2016
  • #10
I got a welder sitting in my garage for the next few days. Just not started the swap yet. Will I run into issues if I weld it before I swap the rest?
 

billison

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#11
  • Oct 26, 2016
  • #11
Not driving the car before the swap is done, starting it this weekend I hope
 

90sickfox

Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands
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#12
  • Oct 26, 2016
  • #12
I took the cable bracket from under an sn95....98 I believe. Drilled the spot welds out and drilled my floor and used bolts.

The handle and extension cable came out if a 98 as well...just drilled a hole and used a nut and bolt on the handle. The bracket for the arm rest in foxes needs to be ground down to clear the longer handle assembly. Also, be prepared to drill out the few rivets that hold the armrest bracket on.
 

billison

I like tinted tail
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#13
  • Oct 26, 2016
  • #13
90sickfox said:
I took the cable bracket from under an sn95....98 I believe. Drilled the spot welds out and drilled my floor and used bolts.

The handle and extension cable came out if a 98 as well...just drilled a hole and used a nut and bolt on the handle. The bracket for the arm rest in foxes needs to be ground down to clear the longer handle assembly. Also, be prepared to drill out the few rivets that hold the armrest bracket on.
Click to expand...
That's more than I wanna mess with . I already got all the parts I need. Just gonna cut and weld.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,225
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Oct 26, 2016
#14
  • Oct 26, 2016
  • #14
billison said:
Just for conversation, I could drill and use a bolt as well right?
Click to expand...

You could.....





Honestly. Just bring it to a muffler shop and ask them to put a quick tack weld on it. I can't imagine them wanting much for that.
 

billison

I like tinted tail
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#15
  • Oct 26, 2016
  • #15
Wait, so 2 cuts?
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,225
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Oct 26, 2016
#16
  • Oct 26, 2016
  • #16
Yup. Remove the spring, cut at yellow line, set on third pawl and tack


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Shakerhood

20+ Year Stangneter
Oct 28, 2004
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Oct 26, 2016
#17
  • Oct 26, 2016
  • #17
I used a Handbrake from a 1998 Cobra as I liked the Leather, I cut and removed the Spring and also Welded the Pawl.
 
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