E-curve distributor question...

Hi,
I like cool stuff too, but at the same time I look at practicality, as well. When I was designing my build, I looked at all of the digital stuff. In the end and not liking all of those "garish" colors in the engine bay, settled for a custom ignition curve and a Pertronix in my OEM distributor and It's "stealthy" too. Besides, having the ability to change curves, how often will one really do that, unless perhaps, it's a track car?
I think the money is better spent on a real power booster. If you are running a "carbed" engine, get a custom tuned carb. It'll add more "bang" than a fancy dizzy.
If you still want to pursue your quest, have you seen these?
http://www.hotrodhotline.com/pr/2011/compu-tronix-dis-8-distributorless-ignition-system/

Hi
With proper attention to a factory dizzy that is re-bushed and custom curve working in conjunction with a good CD box, like Mallory, MSD, Jacobs etc. You won't run out of spark. My junk makes 392 RWHP at 6100 and will run to 7K. I run the aforementioned OEM distributor (custom curve and a 1st gen. Pertronix) in conjunction with a Jacobs box, it never missed a beat during my dyno runs. As I re-call, I might have $175 total in my distributor. This includes the mechanical rebuild, re-curve, and Pertronix.
Good luck with your decision.

mustangmike6996 said:

Is it really worth saving the 100 or so dollars to build a stock dizzy tho? Or would you recommend an msd? I'm sure my old stock one could handle the use ill put it thru, I just don't wanna toss cash into it if it'll be upgraded later on.

Click to expand...

Hi,
Before I lifted a torch to my 6 restoration, I sat down a created a goal. I ask myself what did I want this mustang to become. Among the thoughts were, not to hack it up, to make any mod reversible, and to store all the parts replaced by "go-fast" or safety related parts. As far as the engine goes, I picked a color theme and it was black, aluminum, silver with very little chrome. The only unit that differs from that is my Jacob box which is blue. I do have setting in the wings a couple of DEI (NASCAR boys) MSD track boxes which are black! These are actually better than the standard MSD as they put out 150 joules, as opposed to the lower rated mallorys, MSDs and even the Jacob.
To answer your question, look at the MSD and the Mallory, both have a following, both, are good in their standard versions. I just think with the digital curve feature, will you take the time to exploit it. That is, make several Dyno runs looking for the best possibility. Then once it's found, you're done with that feature. There are standard curves that any good shop can set-up on a distributor machine and be done with it. The $$s I put into my dizzy was broken down as $125 for the rebuild (bushings), testing, then setting up a curve based on my engine's requirements. The remainder was for the Pertronix unit. What do I gain, I have my OEM dizzy, I gained lots of knowledge from the guy who did the curve, I have the graph from the testing, and know there is not one vibration or wobble in the unit. So it's matter of choice, my way is not the end-all, it's just the way I perceived it in sticking with my original goal charted in 1996.
Good luck with yours!

There's a lot of bang for the buck in this distributor:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PFS-30001/

MSD cap and rotor fit for easily accessible replacement parts. Professional Products makes some pretty good stuff all around and in a reasonable price range.
My $.02,
Gene

I have a Mallory magnetic breakerless that I'm not real thrilled with. If I weren't financially challenged, I would have that Pro Products unit. Home brewed Borgeson power steering (bone yard Isuzu box) is first on my list and then this "New Kit":

http://www.classicperform.com/NewProducts/2006/NewFiles/NovaSubFrame.htm

I was going to go with the "Standard Kit" but my "new, high quality" upper control arms are already getting sloppy after 11K miles.
My $.02,
Gene

seems silly to talk about the track or dyno with the e-curve. the timing is basically all in around 3000 RPM with the curves. who dynoes engines starting from idle? how long does a car spend in the 1000 to 3000 rpm range when trying to really accelerate? very little.

that e-curve appears to have a nice little feature to allow to retard the timing on startup. this could help if you want to run a decent amount of initial timing like 20+ degrees and don't have an animal for a starter.

and it has a rev limiter...

+1 Buckey dude!