I just installed an e303 cam and a Cobra intake and it will not start, while in there i changed out the stock timing chain and i know that that is right i made sure the 2 cirles matched on the cam gear and the crank gear. I reused the stock lifters and rockers but i used new FR Pushrods. There is spark for sure and there is fuel pressure but it wont turn over, it cranks but wont turn over. Ive double checked firing order i know thats right 13726548. Spark plugs are now soaked with gas cause i disconnected the coil to prime the oil pump. Any suggestions?
E303 cam installed now no start!
- Thread starter horsepower302
- Start date
ls1beater4eva
New Member
Ok well what is the car doing ? is it spitting through the exhaust or back through the intake? check the dizz make sure you dont have it 180 out . I would pull the num 1 plug and make sure the dizzy is rite . let us know more info on what else is going on with car while trying to crank it.
Italian-LX
Member
For future reference, instead of disconnecting the coil, just disconnect the TFI connector from the distributor. This will not only keep it from sparking, but will also not allow any fuel to spray.
If I were you go get some new plugs, gap them properly, put them in and give it a shot. I bet you it starts right up for you. The reason I say this is because when I built my 2000 Camaro SS and had a very nasty cam in it and crazy port work, I put it all together and foulded the plugs a few times before I had the car tuned! I bet I fouled about 32 plugs in a week haha....it would just crank over, not backfire through the exhaust or intake. I'm not saying that you need a tune or anything but I would just swap in some new plugs and give it a shot....I bet it fires right up. Let us know and we'll go from there. Good luck!!
tording
Founding Member
I agree. I did a similar thing one time and cranked it and soaked the plugs in fuel and it would not let the car start. I however just removed the plugs for a few hours and let them dry out and then put them back in and it started right up. You could also go with new plugs though to be sure it didnt mess them up.
JChalfan
Member
I've heard that with some fuel injected cars, if you hold the gas pedal to the floor while you crank it, that shuts off the injectors. Anyone know if this is true with 5.0's?
Since you said it almost started at first, I agree a new set of plugs may do it. Otherwise, if you're sure the cam is installed correctly, check your ignition timing. Is the distributor tight? If not, it could have almost started, then slipped and now it won't start...
Since you said it almost started at first, I agree a new set of plugs may do it. Otherwise, if you're sure the cam is installed correctly, check your ignition timing. Is the distributor tight? If not, it could have almost started, then slipped and now it won't start...
I would try the same thing, I have been working on a 67 coupe and had the same problem. When I took the plugs out, they were soaked in fuel. I have always been told to have another set of plugs laying around when doing work like that. I also learned that you can clean spark plugs with a torch, I used a propane bottle style one(not very expensive, most auto parts stores have them or places like orchard supply). Hold the spark plug with pliers and torch the top part, the fuel will burn off and cleans the plug nicely plus you don't have to let them dry out for a few hours... I have done this a few times, car starts up everytime so this could definetely be your problem.
True. Anything over ~ 3.7 TPS volts while cranking should shut down the injectors.
ok well put new plugs in and it back fired out the left exhaust pipe real load with about 1ft flame. i spun crank around to bring number 1 top dead center button is really close it should still run but like crap right what should i do now? firing order is right checked 4 times 13726548 is that right?
89streetbeast
New Member
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DMAN302
My mom says thanks for the pearl necklace.
I'm starting to think that maybe the you are 180* out. If not the new plugs should have hit it right off...all of the fuel should have evaporated out if it had set with the plugs out for a while. I would check the timing thing now....keep us up to date on the situation.....I'm sure it's something simple!!!
Putting the distributor back in is fairly simple. Pull #1 sparkplug, put your finger in the sparkplug hole, crank the engine until you feel compression. Then line up the TDC mark on the balancer with the pointer on the engine block.
The distributor starts out with the #1 plug wire lined up at about 12:00 with you facing it. Align the rotor to about 11:00, since it will turn clockwise as it slides into place.
Align the distributor rotor up with the #1 position marked on the cap, slide the distributor down into the block, (you may have to wiggle the rotor slightly to get the gear to engage) and then note where the rotor is pointing. If it still lines up with #1 position on the cap, install the clamp and bolt. If not, pull it out and turn 1 tooth forwards or backwards and try again. Put the #1 spark plug back in and tighten it down, put the clamp on the distributor, but don't tighten it too much, as you will have to move the distributor to set the timing. Note that if it doesn't align perfectly with #1 position, you can turn the distributor until it does. The only problem is that if you are too far one way or the other, you can't turn the distributor enough to get the 10-14 degree optimum timing range.
At this point hook up all the wires, get out the timing light and start the engine. Set the timing where your car runs best. Don't forget to disconnect the SPOUT jumper connector when you set the timing, and plug it back in when you finish.
The distributor starts out with the #1 plug wire lined up at about 12:00 with you facing it. Align the rotor to about 11:00, since it will turn clockwise as it slides into place.
Align the distributor rotor up with the #1 position marked on the cap, slide the distributor down into the block, (you may have to wiggle the rotor slightly to get the gear to engage) and then note where the rotor is pointing. If it still lines up with #1 position on the cap, install the clamp and bolt. If not, pull it out and turn 1 tooth forwards or backwards and try again. Put the #1 spark plug back in and tighten it down, put the clamp on the distributor, but don't tighten it too much, as you will have to move the distributor to set the timing. Note that if it doesn't align perfectly with #1 position, you can turn the distributor until it does. The only problem is that if you are too far one way or the other, you can't turn the distributor enough to get the 10-14 degree optimum timing range.
At this point hook up all the wires, get out the timing light and start the engine. Set the timing where your car runs best. Don't forget to disconnect the SPOUT jumper connector when you set the timing, and plug it back in when you finish.
ls1beater4eva
New Member
no prob thats why we are here. lol well go out and have somoe fun with the car now good luck with it.:SNSign:
tording
Founding Member
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