E7 heads with stock springs, e,f,b,x cams?

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nidyanazo

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Mar 30, 2005

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805 dawg

Nov 9, 2005

#1

• Nov 9, 2005

• #1

I am finally getting e7 heads, and want a bigger cam. What can I get away with using stock e7 heads, with stock valve springs? e cam? f cam? x cam?
What's the max lift I can use? (Notched KB pistons)

 

gt40_2003wes

I did sound a wee bit gay there.

Aug 14, 2005

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ky

Nov 9, 2005

#2

• Nov 9, 2005

• #2

stay out of the alphabet cams.

 

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emagdnim

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Feb 5, 2003

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Nov 9, 2005

#3

• Nov 9, 2005

• #3

Dont run any aftermarket cam on the stock springs or your looking for trouble they can barely handle the stock HO cam!

 

R

-=Red5.0GT=-

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Feb 1, 2004

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Nov 9, 2005

#4

• Nov 9, 2005

• #4

nidyanazo said:

I am finally getting e7 heads, and want a bigger cam. (Notched KB pistons)

Click to expand...

did your car not come with e7? hmmmm anyway try 1.7 RR instead of a cam

 

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87gtconv

ragtopman

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Nov 9, 2005

#5

• Nov 9, 2005

• #5

The stock cam is OK if yu are not going to port or replace the stock heads. 1.7 cobra rockers is not a bad idea but you will still need to get new springs unless these are almost new!!

 

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87'GTstang

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Feb 16, 2004

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#6

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As time passes, springs wear out. The stock springs are only 85 lbs/in seated to begin with. I would never resuse a stock spring with such age on them (the newest being 11 years old). New springs can be had (a fairly decent set) can be had for between $50-$75.

 

91ghp5.0

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May 25, 2005

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Nov 9, 2005

#7

• Nov 9, 2005

• #7

Im installing a fresh 306 w/ a B cam in it, and I don't believe i had to upgrade springs. not sure, ill check if you'd like (had the engine built 2 years ago).

 

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87gtconv

ragtopman

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#8

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Maybe you didn't but you should have and I am surprised you are not experiencing valve float with a B cam!!

 

91ghp5.0

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like i said, I'm not totally sure. my "first car" was a rolling chassis (4cyl coupe) that my father had this engine built for (several years ago, when i had no idea what a cam was, let alone what cam it had). we're are almost done w/ the install in my current coupe (it was a v8, just gettin a fresh start . it may have upgraded springs,but im not totally sure, so i'll do a little research tomorrow.
-Dan

 

Modular2v

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Nov 9, 2005

#10

• Nov 9, 2005

• #10

i read somewhere that as long as you keep the lift under 500 the stock springs are safe

 

mustangramair

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Nov 9, 2005

#11

• Nov 9, 2005

• #11

I myself would not trust stock springs, especially if they are used springs with an aftermarket cam. I would buy new springs, better safe than sorry! Do the heads have any work, ect valve job, bowl blending, porting, milling? If they don't have any work done to them i would not run an aftermarket cam, stay with the HO cam. ~Nick

 

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emagdnim

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Feb 5, 2003

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#12

• Nov 9, 2005

• #12

Modular2v said:

i read somewhere that as long as you keep the lift under 500 the stock springs are safe

Click to expand...

Yes they wont bind up but that does not mean they will not float. If the lobes are even a tad bit more agressive then the stock cam your gonna see float.

 

aleborjas

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#13

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• #13

first - dont get a ford cams buy buy another brand comp cams, lunati, TFS, isky, etc......
second - i would not change the cam with the stock heads not even ported!
third - leave the stock cam and put 1.7 RR's with the sock heads....

 

N

nidyanazo

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Mar 30, 2005

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805 dawg

Nov 10, 2005

#14

• Nov 10, 2005

• #14

Good advise. I'll start out with 1.7rr's, then port the heads, and get a new cam and springs. I'm just happy to have gotten a better head. Everyone bags on the e6's and says "you'll gain form 10-25 hp going to e7's". I really just wanted to extend my rpm range, but I hope I don't lose and down-low torque!

 

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87'GTstang

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#15

• Nov 10, 2005

• #15

Modular2v said:

i read somewhere that as long as you keep the lift under 500 the stock springs are safe

Click to expand...

Lift is only part of the equation. The major factor is basically ramp rates. The faster the lobes ramp and open the valves, then you can bet that during the closing of the valve weak springs will not be able to close the valve fast enough. Next thing you know the lobe that opens that valve comes back around with the valve still open, smacks the lifter quite hard, then starts opening it again. This puts hard wear and tear on your valvetrain, power greatly goes down, combustion becomes inefficient and you start literally dumping out raw and unburned fuel out the exhaust port (which in turn the cats do not like to see with their temps).

It's a lose-lose situation if you don't use the proper springs, just fork over the money for the appropriate/proper pressures.

 

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87'GTstang

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#16

• Nov 10, 2005

• #16

nidyanazo said:

I really just wanted to extend my rpm range, but I hope I don't lose and down-low torque!

Click to expand...

Your cam will determine entirely where your powerband is (but make sure you match you heads, exhaust, and all intake components to it). If you keep most importantly your advertised duration below 280* or so (this is key) and lift below around .530 - .550 or so, your low end should remain intact.

Pick wisely from the start instead of going piece-shopping-happy.

 

18mustangs

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Nov 10, 2005

#17

• Nov 10, 2005

• #17

aleborjas said:

first - dont get a ford cams buy buy another brand comp cams, lunati, TFS, isky, etc......
second - i would not change the cam with the stock heads not even ported!
third - leave the stock cam and put 1.7 RR's with the sock heads....

Click to expand...

He's not getting a Ford cam, he's getting a Ford Racing cam which is made by Crane! Even with 1.7s he'll need new valve springs or he's looking for trouble.
Tim

 

J

jimilane

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Nov 11, 2005

#18

• Nov 11, 2005

• #18

I just put an E cam on a set of E7s with new stock springs. No problems, but I'm not turning up the engine. Even new, the stock springs feel week to me. I'm going to change the springs before I start driving it again.

jim