Pretty much what I expected to hear from stangnet...
you guys are a little nicer than most, but also a little less apt to deal with issues in a DSM that you will deal with in a stang.
Since I have come from Turbo AWD Mitsu's (although my personal cars always have TWO turbos
) there have been quite a few 1st and 2nd gen dsm's I've helped build and (while I still co-owned the shop) worked on.
1st gen vs 2nd gen -
1st gen have stronger bottom end
2nd gen look better
1st gen have larger stock turbo (capable of 12's most people stop with them in the 13's though)
1st gen have larger injectors
2nd gen have better exhaust manifold
1st gen are faster (lighter)
2nd gen look better.
1st gen formula-
stock 5spd AWD Turbo. (91+ head lights are cooler)
Stealth TT/ 3000GT VR4 fuel pump (190lph) ($30-50 used- hotwire it)
aftermarket boost gauge ($50 with pillar pod)
Dumptube first and foremost (wastegate dumps to atmosphere instead of into exhaust - much like getting a downpipe and catback but with fraction of the cost- though it's FREGGIN LOUD!) ($150-250)
manual boost controller ($20)
change tranny/transfercase/rearend to synth fluids ($80)
Turbo Timer ($100)
Ramchargers MAFT (with LS6 MAF $300 - allows larger injectors/replaces MAF (which dies around 400hp anyway))
At this point- you should be able to run a high 12 with ease and still retain stock driveability and great mileage. From here on out things will be determined by driving style- how well you drive, how hard you are on clutch, brakes, etc..
next mods should be-
Big16G turbo ($600)
downpipe/catback ($500-750 buying bolt on SS)
660-880 injectors ($300-500)
supra fuel pump (340lph) ($200)
clutch ($150-500)
aluminum flywheel ($300)
adj cam gears ($400)
at some point in there you should either have
A) been dyno tuned AND DON'T TOUCH IT AFTERWARDS
B) blown up a motor due to detonation
C) installed a WideBand O2 and watched your butt!
That is a decently easy way to hit high 11's daily driven, on the street.
Others have done it with a lot less, and some haven't done it with a lot more.
But i've personally installed all that stuff, and it's no more difficult to install than heads or a cam is on a 5.0... you just have to remember it's a motor, and it still basically works the same, there is more exotic looking stuff, but it still works the same.
Now I'm learning the ropes on a mustang, i've not done much to mine yet, (11:1 pistons, 3.73 gears, UDP set, 70mm Cobra MAF, EEC, 24lb injectors, hotwired SN95 pump, B&M short throw, off- H pipe, 2.5" muffs) and you don't have to worry about making the power (especially LOADS of it down low- something you don't get on a DSM- you need more displacement- I suggest 3.0L V6 TwinTurbo
) but you have to worry about laying it down. If you think that a set of DR's makes it all even against AWD- good luck!
What you save in making power, you lose in making traction- likewise on the DSM what you get by making traction, you lose by losing power up high.
Give or take- own from the stoplight, get owned from a roll on.
Here's the best-
The Mustang is the Eclipse of the Domestic world.
The Eclipse is the Mustang of the Import world.
Same amount of aftermarket, same potential, same ease to work on (comparatively- the LS1 is loads harder to deal with than the 5.0, whereas the H22A is harder to make power (or TQ at all) than the 4G63), same amount of pros vs cons.
Good luck!