Ecu!!
- Thread starter gooch06
- Start date
The car doesn't run. 
Computers are very tough and usually don't die. Most of the time there is a sensor or wiring problem that causes all the trouble.
Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html
IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.
Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $33.
Computers are very tough and usually don't die. Most of the time there is a sensor or wiring problem that causes all the trouble.
Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html
IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.
Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $33.
jrichker
Thanks for the links.. Have you actually used either one of the scanners that you linked up? I know autozone and Advanced Auto Parts both have scanners, and neither will read either one of my mustangs codes 92gt and 95gt. Just wondering if these scanners would have the same problem as theirs does?
Thanks for the links.. Have you actually used either one of the scanners that you linked up? I know autozone and Advanced Auto Parts both have scanners, and neither will read either one of my mustangs codes 92gt and 95gt. Just wondering if these scanners would have the same problem as theirs does?
The paper clip works in the same manner as the more expensive scanners. It tells the computer to go into test mode and output the results on the tan wire. The tan wire drives the check engine light.ponyboy19 said:
Wnen scanners (or the paper clip method) doesn't work, it is usually caused by bad wiring. Either the black/white wire that provides the test ground is bad or white/red wire is bad. On rare occasions, the signal ground trace inside the computer will burn off the PC board and render the self test functions inop. That usually causes a number of sensor inputs to go off scale as well.
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