My cable system is 100% stock over 30 year old parts, except for the cable. After the first one broke the second one seemed to bind up instantly and would not have lasted very long had I not disconnected it from the pedal and slowly put oil in between the cable and the outer sleeve. Its been 7 years since I put the oil in the cable and its just now feeling like it needs more. Guys do what you want but I like the stock set up.
if your really that much of a bitch that you cant push the clutch pedal... maybe you should stick to a civic or something.
and really most stock replacement clutches arent that bad and if you have a need for a clutch with crazy pedal pressure you prob dont drive it everyday anyway and you honestly should prob just put an auto in it
and really most stock replacement clutches arent that bad and if you have a need for a clutch with crazy pedal pressure you prob dont drive it everyday anyway and you honestly should prob just put an auto in it
Lol, please tell me we aren't having a "hydraulic clutches are for sissies" debate here! What's next? Power brakes and steering are for sissies too?
If you like the cable setup, good for you stick with it. But there are plenty of valid reasons for wanting a hydraulic clutch.
Anyway, more good stuff on hydraulic clutch conversions
http://forums.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1004498
If you like the cable setup, good for you stick with it. But there are plenty of valid reasons for wanting a hydraulic clutch.
Anyway, more good stuff on hydraulic clutch conversions
http://forums.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1004498
Hey I was just saying that I had only one problem with my set up and found a way to fix it. Maybe thats why the question came up? Maybe not but I bet it would help others to know they can just poor some oil in the cable and it wont snap and will press a lot smother. Dont believe me then see for yourself. Maybe I will film it next time I do it.
i have switched to 80grit sand paper... the 150 i was using started to feel like 2 ply
There's a couple of reasons I'm looking into a hydraulic solution...
The intake setup I run causes the cable to rub on an edge that is slowly eating its way through the cable casing
My firewall adjuster is nearly impossible to get to (I run the MM cable and quadrant), to adjust
As the the clutch wears and I want to adjust the cable to allow the pressure plate more room to clamp down, I gotta cuss and nearly stand on my head to get it turn in a few threads. (it's not cable stretch because that would cause the opposite problem)
The torque I make down low is SCREAMING for a heavier pressure plate. I'm at the point now where if I'm cruising down the highway and stomp on it in 3rd or 4th, the clutch slips.
I don't need to feel each and every bump and scratch in the flywheel when I switch gears. What I need is for the clutch to ENGAGE when I release the clutch pedal and DISENGAGE when I push it down. I'd also like for it to self-adjust. Nothing under the car or hood to mess with. It just does what it does.
I'm also looking at replacing my Bassani 1 3/4 shorties with a set of longtubes at some point. Yeah... I know it can be done with a cable setup but it would be just that much easier to route a hyd line to the slave rather than pave a clear path for the cable.
Now, my next clutch will most likely be a Mcleod RST Twin. That kills the need for a crazy pressure plate. That still leaves me with adjustability, access to the FW adjuster, and potential headaches of routing around the longtubes along with the cable chafing problem that I'm currently having.
I'd like to find someone who's run this kind of setup. I've heard horror stories from users of other similar systems where the throw-out bearing/Hydraulic slave leaked and caused the whole assy to be pulled apart for the replacement of that one part. Ugh.
I like the looks of that system that 5L5 posted up. Keeping the clutch fork would kill worries about having to replace that other type if it leaked.
The intake setup I run causes the cable to rub on an edge that is slowly eating its way through the cable casing
My firewall adjuster is nearly impossible to get to (I run the MM cable and quadrant), to adjust
As the the clutch wears and I want to adjust the cable to allow the pressure plate more room to clamp down, I gotta cuss and nearly stand on my head to get it turn in a few threads. (it's not cable stretch because that would cause the opposite problem)
The torque I make down low is SCREAMING for a heavier pressure plate. I'm at the point now where if I'm cruising down the highway and stomp on it in 3rd or 4th, the clutch slips.
I don't need to feel each and every bump and scratch in the flywheel when I switch gears. What I need is for the clutch to ENGAGE when I release the clutch pedal and DISENGAGE when I push it down. I'd also like for it to self-adjust. Nothing under the car or hood to mess with. It just does what it does.
I'm also looking at replacing my Bassani 1 3/4 shorties with a set of longtubes at some point. Yeah... I know it can be done with a cable setup but it would be just that much easier to route a hyd line to the slave rather than pave a clear path for the cable.
Now, my next clutch will most likely be a Mcleod RST Twin. That kills the need for a crazy pressure plate. That still leaves me with adjustability, access to the FW adjuster, and potential headaches of routing around the longtubes along with the cable chafing problem that I'm currently having.
I'd like to find someone who's run this kind of setup. I've heard horror stories from users of other similar systems where the throw-out bearing/Hydraulic slave leaked and caused the whole assy to be pulled apart for the replacement of that one part. Ugh.
I like the looks of that system that 5L5 posted up. Keeping the clutch fork would kill worries about having to replace that other type if it leaked.
Kenne Bell with a Flowzilla intake. I had to use a brass punch on the firewall seam to shoehorn this thing in there. I once considered just removing the the wiper motor to gain access to adjuster but the adjust is still up under that seam and wouldn't grant much more (if any) access to the adjuster.
I'd even considered an adjustable cable but I have serious reservations about non-oem cable assemblies.
I'd even considered an adjustable cable but I have serious reservations about non-oem cable assemblies.
My response wasn't really directed at you
My reasons for showing interest in a hydraulic clutch are due to a bad knee that has been operated on a few times...not really anything mechanically related.
Fortunately, the cable setup with my King Cobra clutch isn't bothering me as much yet since i only really drive my car maybe 300-400 miles a summer. So not a lot of abuse on the knee to make e complain....yet
i was just poking fun, i wasn't serious. i DO prefer the feeling of "attachment" cable clutches give you though.
a hydraulic setup would be nice though, not having to replace stretched or broken cables all the time. i've owned my current car for 5 years now and i've gone through 5 or 6 cables already. it gets kind of old.