EGR and Smog delete?

T

The AntiRice

New Member

Apr 19, 2007

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Jun 8, 2007

#1

• Jun 8, 2007

• #1

how do i go about this? from what i can see the tube on the h pipe has to be welded shut. im going to need a smog pump delete pulley and bracket and a egr delete plate for the throttle body. what else? what do i do with the stuff on the back side of the passenger strut tower? looks like some vac lines and wires that need to have something done with them. what changes do i need to make to the vac system as far as capping things off or rerouting lines?

 

B

bditty50

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Jun 20, 2005

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Tampa, Florida

Jun 9, 2007

#2

• Jun 9, 2007

• #2

Well my car has all the smog deleted. Except the Egr. With the h pipe I've seen people just weld like a fat bolt in the tubes. The egr you need to get a egr delete plate and get a plug in where the egr went to tell the computer that everything is opening and closing like it should. The bracket I have for the smog pump is from MAC I think but, even ford racing makes one. Vacum lines just need to be all plugged up and you should be good to go. I want to delete the egr just for looks and get rid of the ugly parts.

 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

Mod Dude

Feb 18, 2001

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Jun 9, 2007

#3

• Jun 9, 2007

• #3

Do not delete the EGR. It's more trouble than it's worth and will do nothing for HP.

To PROPERLY delete the EGR, you need a tune to adjust your part throttle fuel curves or you will run lean. The EGR resistor chip will not do this. In fact, the chip would be more harmful because it would tell the computer the EGR is functioning properly and would cut back on fuel thinking inert air was being pumped in. As a result, the engine will run lean at part throttle and may experience detonation.

Most smog components can be deleted with little or no effect, but the EGR is one that is a little tricky.


As for the smog pump tube being welded off. You can simply bypass the smog pump with a shorter belt. There is no need for a delete pulley. You just simply change the way the belt is routed.



The actual belt lenght may cary depending on if you have underdrive pulleys

 

T

The AntiRice

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Apr 19, 2007

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Jun 9, 2007

#4

• Jun 9, 2007

• #4

so basically the best way to do it is in conjunction with another major uprgrade and then head to the dyno to have it tuned.

 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

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Feb 18, 2001

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Jun 9, 2007

#5

• Jun 9, 2007

• #5

Basically yes, however most never do unfortunately. The thing is, removing it does nothing for performance, so why bother

 

T

The AntiRice

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Apr 19, 2007

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Jun 9, 2007

#6

• Jun 9, 2007

• #6

its just one less thing to go wrong and id like to get as much stuff out of the engine bay as possible.

 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

Mod Dude

Feb 18, 2001

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Jun 9, 2007

#7

• Jun 9, 2007

• #7

You can remove the smog pump and some of the related plumbing without causing any issues. You can just reroute the belt like my above picture. No need to buy any delete pulleys or anything.

Just leave the EGR alone for now.

 

daviszx3

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Jun 3, 2007

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maryland

Apr 1, 2008

#8

• Apr 1, 2008

• #8

i have a question about the vacum lines behind the passenger side shock tower, is it ok to plug all these off if not which ones can be plugged off?

 

NIKwoaC

中國製造

15 Year Member

Oct 31, 2006

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Chengdu Province

Apr 1, 2008

#9

• Apr 1, 2008

• #9

Everybody says that removing EGR causes running issues. But mine has been gone for 5 years now with no tune and my car runs strong as ever. But also, my car is an '86 with Speed Density, so I'm already insane and beyond help.

+1 on the short belt concept though. Just remove the pump and route a new belt. The less parasitic drag on the motor the better!

 

daviszx3

Member

Jun 3, 2007

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maryland

Apr 1, 2008

#10

• Apr 1, 2008

• #10

well right now i still have the egr valve on but no vacum line going to it and i've also capped the line off going to the back of the plenum to the lines behind the shock tower

 

enyawix

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Dec 18, 2005

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Apr 2, 2008

#11

• Apr 2, 2008

• #11

Mustang5L5 said:

Basically yes, however most never do unfortunately. The thing is, removing it does nothing for performance, so why bother

Click to expand...

I am running a MegaSquirt computer so where can I get a block off plate? My home made plate is not very good looking.

 

F

fox bodies rule

Member

Mar 11, 2008

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Jun 10, 2008

#12

• Jun 10, 2008

• #12

Here is a question to ponder. If the EGR requires you to run coolant lines in and out of the spacer plate you have a band of 195* water heating up your intake air right before it enters the intake. Has anyone data logged their IAT with and without the coolant lines hooked up? I have IAT numbers of 150* and need to drop them down to about 100* or less. I have the stock Ford intake tract pulling air out of the fender well so I don't see any advantage to a "cold air" kit.
If you are looking for a nice ball milled billet EGR block off plate go on Ebay, search EGR delete and you will find some really nice looking plates that are fairly cheap and include a gasket.

 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

Mod Dude

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Jun 10, 2008

#13

• Jun 10, 2008

• #13

The problem is the upper intake gets damn hot on it's own. If you go for a ride on a warm day and pop the hood and run a laser temp gun on the upper intake, chances are it will be over 200 degrees. I've done this with my Cobra intake and there are no coolant lines. Heat rises and aluminum conducts heat (albeit poorly compared to steel).

No matter what you do, all that heat from your engine eventually rises and heatsoaks the entire intake manifold.

I don't dount you could get air temps around 100 degrees, but not so certain you could do it consistently depending on ambient conditions.

 

joel5.0

Member

Jun 15, 2004

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Puerto Rico

Jun 11, 2008

#14

• Jun 11, 2008

• #14

Effectively deleting the EGR does not require the system to be tuned. The system does it automatically anytime an EGR related failure code is present in the system (code 33 = EGR Valve Opening Not Detected is the one triggered by the EGR resistors) and does not affect A/F or spark control as defined by the GUFB strategy (shown below).



The same A/F and spark control tables are used by the system with or w/out the EGR functional, the only item that will be missing, is the EGR spark adder function (FN1121), required to compensate spark control due to the addition of the inert gases at part throttle under load.