EGR elimination?

88 Fox GT

Active Member
Nov 18, 2002
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Iowa
Is it possible to eliminate my EGR and still have the electrical and EFI function correctly? Besides, isn't it only needed to help the car run easier when the air is cold like in winter? :shrug:
 
spent gasses (inert) are cooler than the outrageous temps in the heads.

the thing is, the puter dials in a ton of timing when EGR gasses are (should be) introduced, as the mixture is diluted and less volatile.
if you ditch the EGR w/o letting the puter know (chip, tweecer, etc), it is hit or miss on whether you will have issues with detonation.
my two cents. good luck.
 
Hmm...I may have a problem then. I don't know if my '65 has enough room on that side of the engine to put the EGR and stuff. But, if I do remove it I will have to do some serious computer tuning, correct?
 
Maybe you have no clue how hot the compustion chambers are when combustion is going on. Let me also give you another way it cools the combusion process down since you do not believe me. If carbon monoxide is going into the cylinders, then less oxygen can go into the cylinder, thus causing a rich condition, and leading to cooler combustion chambers.
 
stang_gt_1994 said:
Not computer tunning just need to richen the car up.

No :flame: intended, but......

Sorry, in my opinion that is completely wrong. Like said before, the computer thinks the EGR is still functioning and adjusts timing and fuel accordingly. You will be running richer during normal cruise, which is NOT GOOD.

How would you richen/leab an EFI car without computer tuning (besides open loop)???? How do you change the spark tables without computer tuning. :shrug: Part throttle a/f ratio is determined by the O2 sensors. You can't just add/trim fuel pressure because the computer will simply compensate.

The computer uses the O2 sensors to calculate your a/f ratio during normal cruise, which is what you will be at 95% of the time. Lets say the EGR is still hooked up & running, and the the O2's are at "X" resistance, which normally means you are oscillating around 14.7 a/f ratio. Since the EGR is still hooked up, you are actually at 14.7 a/f, and everything is hunky dory.

But the computer assumes that there is going to be a certain percentage of exhaust gases in the mixture. If you remove the EGR, the O2's will read "Y" resistance, because there is more oxygen present per CFM of exhaust now. So, the computer thinks it's running lean and adds fuel. Now, with the addition of the fuel, the oxygen sensors go back to "X" resistance, and the computer thinks this fine, because it assumes the EGR is still present.

So if you want to run rich and hot, go ahead. You will only burn out your motor.

Remember, the computer shuts off the EGR at wide open throttle, so removing the EGR will only complicate things & not give you any power. So part throttle cruise will be affected, which means 95% of the time the car will run rich.

Make the EGR fit or get a custom computer chip. Plain and simple.
Scott
 
Scott, i agree with you - you and i are on the same page.

not addressing what you said, Scott, but to just add to this pot.
even if he was to try to just 'richen it up' (as someone else said) i dont know how he could without tuning (cant just dial up the FP, use bigger injectors, etc). one needs to burn a chip, use a tweecer, etc. and if doing that, i would burn the chip so the puter knows there is no EGR anyhow. so the amount of hoops to be jumped through is the same.

there is not a lot of point to removing the EGR, IMHO. it is used when you are cruising only. at idle and WOT (when demanding performance) it is not used. so why get rid of it. i see the device as a win win. just my thoughts.