its on my new 77 f250 and ya it dont come on makes first few minuted of driving difficult...
any ideas???
-gbm-
any ideas???
-gbm-
electric choke on holley 600 dont work (is there an adjustment or something)
- Thread starter gingerbreadman
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ddonaca351
Active Member
gingerbreadman said:
Most of the ones that I have used, you loosten the 3 screws that hold the housing for the bi-metal spring (little round can on the side of the carb) and turn the housing. This pre-loads the spring (do this while the motor is cold) to hold the choke plate closed (I aim for 1/2 to 2/3 closed to start with and adjust from there).
Hope this helps,
Dave
1st.. let's make sure your getting power and ground to the choke.
When you 1st turn the key to "run" you should see +12V at 1 terminal of the choke, and ground at another. Verify that the wiring is good 1st.
Once you know the wiring is good, let's adjust the choke. Wait overnight or at least a few hours for your engine to get good and cold. Then pull off the aircleaner and stare down the carb. Your choke plate should be almost fully closed. If it's not, loosen those 3 screws and then rotate the choke mechanism. You'll see the choke plate moves with it. Rotate it until the choke plate is almost fully closed (it's not winter or else I'd say make sure it was closed). Then tighen down the scews and give er a try.
If it's too much choke, re-adjust so that the choke plate is a little more open. If it's not enough, adjust so that the plate is closer to being completely closed.
It's probably a good idea to mark your original location also.
When you 1st turn the key to "run" you should see +12V at 1 terminal of the choke, and ground at another. Verify that the wiring is good 1st.
Once you know the wiring is good, let's adjust the choke. Wait overnight or at least a few hours for your engine to get good and cold. Then pull off the aircleaner and stare down the carb. Your choke plate should be almost fully closed. If it's not, loosen those 3 screws and then rotate the choke mechanism. You'll see the choke plate moves with it. Rotate it until the choke plate is almost fully closed (it's not winter or else I'd say make sure it was closed). Then tighen down the scews and give er a try.
If it's too much choke, re-adjust so that the choke plate is a little more open. If it's not enough, adjust so that the plate is closer to being completely closed.
It's probably a good idea to mark your original location also.
84convertablegt
New Member
if for some reason the choke is just dead after trying everything above, holley makes a replacement electric choke for like 50 dollars or less or you could convert to manual choke then ud know its working. u can also make sure your choke linkage isnt jammed up. after you shut off the car and its good and cold, work the throttle linkage once and you should see your choke plate slam shut, if it doesnt something is wrong
70_Nitrous_Eater said:
If the truck was originally equipped with an electric choke, and the electric choke on the Holley is hooked up to the original wire, you will not see 12v at the choke housing unless the engine is running. This is due to the fact that the factory electric choke is run off the STA terminal on the alternator, which only has voltage when the alternator rotor is spinning.
UPDATE:
well i havent tried adjusting it yet but heres what happened today.
I installed a set of gauges and one of them included a voltmeter and when i turned the key to run position it only had 10 volts and when i started the motor and reved it the voltage didnt climb, i verified this with the voltmeter and still its not charging. I happened to have a spare alt so i put it in and now its charging just fine and dandy.
I wonder if my problems were that my alt recently died thus lowering the voltage causing the choke to not have enough power to work correctly.
This makes sense because the choke was working but just recently quit.
I have to wait till tommorow and its cold to see, i havent had time to check it.
I'll keep ya posted.
-gbm-
P.s. the choke is spliced to a wire on the firewall. It's switched with power in run and crank position. im sure its a full 12/14 volt circuit but ill double check tommorow aswell.
well i havent tried adjusting it yet but heres what happened today.
I installed a set of gauges and one of them included a voltmeter and when i turned the key to run position it only had 10 volts and when i started the motor and reved it the voltage didnt climb, i verified this with the voltmeter and still its not charging. I happened to have a spare alt so i put it in and now its charging just fine and dandy.
I wonder if my problems were that my alt recently died thus lowering the voltage causing the choke to not have enough power to work correctly.
This makes sense because the choke was working but just recently quit.
I have to wait till tommorow and its cold to see, i havent had time to check it.
I'll keep ya posted.
-gbm-
P.s. the choke is spliced to a wire on the firewall. It's switched with power in run and crank position. im sure its a full 12/14 volt circuit but ill double check tommorow aswell.
gingerbreadman said:
Well i checked the choke out and all is fine there. Must be something else amiss. This carb is shot anyways it leakes out the throttle rods, i have a truck avenger on its way so im not gonna panick just yet.
-gbm-
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