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Electric Fan Options

  • Thread starter Thread starter pyroman
  • Start date Start date Dec 13, 2008
P

pyroman

Founding Member
Jul 28, 2002
480
3
18
Ennis, Texas
Dec 13, 2008
#1
  • Dec 13, 2008
  • #1
I'm thinking of converting to an electric fan for my engine swap (5.0 roller motor, carbed). What recommendations do you guys have? Do I need a new alternator, radiator?
 

Tim65GT

Active Member
Feb 24, 2004
1,149
2
39
West Texas
Dec 13, 2008
#2
  • Dec 13, 2008
  • #2
What radiator do you have now? Does it overheat? Do you have AC?

Mine was fine with a stock copper/brass 4-core radiator until I added AC. It would overheat in traffic. Then I swapped in an aluminum crossflow radiator and Taurus fan. Then I had low voltage issues at idle. So I swapped in a 160A alternator.

So...If you go big on the fan, plan to go big on the alternator (and all the associated wiring, circuit protection and relays). On the other hand, you don't want a wimpy fan that can't handle high summer temps at idle in traffic.
 

65ShelbyClone

Founding Member
Sep 9, 2000
4,675
38
119
Antelope Valley, SoCal
Dec 13, 2008
#3
  • Dec 13, 2008
  • #3
If you have the anemic stock alternator, then a better one is a very good idea. You shouldn't need a new radiator if the engine cools fine right now. Look into the Lincoln, Taurus, and '94+ Mustang OEM fans. They pull tons more air than even a Black Magic(or Black Tragic as I have heard it called).

I actually think a thermostatic fan clutch would be better. That is probably what I will go with after I get an aluminum radiator.
 
P

pyroman

Founding Member
Jul 28, 2002
480
3
18
Ennis, Texas
Dec 13, 2008
#4
  • Dec 13, 2008
  • #4
No I haven't had overheating issues with the current radiator. It's just the stock one that came with a 289. I'm putting in the 302 now and although I don't know how the radiator will work now, my guess is it should probably perform fine. However I do want a cooling system that will support a high horsepower (350-400) engine later down the road. My alternator, to the best of my knowledge is what came stock on a 289.

EDIT: I had an old A/C system but I'm scrapping it. It never worked right in the first place. During the years of driving it I got acclimated to Texas summers w/o A/C.
 

65ShelbyClone

Founding Member
Sep 9, 2000
4,675
38
119
Antelope Valley, SoCal
Dec 13, 2008
#5
  • Dec 13, 2008
  • #5
For 350-400hp, a better radiator will be mandatory. I have a fairly new 3-row in my '68 and it's not enough if the outside temp is over about 85°. The water temp will keep slowly climbing it takes a long downhill to get it back down to ~190. Below 80, though, it cools just fine.
 

Qwik66-SD

20+ Year Stangneter
May 8, 2003
116
7
19
San Diego
Dec 14, 2008
#6
  • Dec 14, 2008
  • #6
I went with this Ron Davis + dual Spal fan for my 66. This one is a replacement for a Fox body.

http://www.rondavisradiators.com/79-93-Mustang-Radiator-with.jpg
 

hipo_p51

Member
Jun 13, 2008
199
2
19
Dec 14, 2008
#7
  • Dec 14, 2008
  • #7
a fan shroud helps a lot. many shroud designs are available these days.
 

Markus

Member
Feb 29, 2004
238
2
19
germany
Dec 14, 2008
#8
  • Dec 14, 2008
  • #8
Hello guys,

i needed better cooling for my 331 (5.0 roller base block) too. First i installed a 3g alternator and opened the radiator support for a 2 row mishimoto (fox style) aluminium radiator. Following a edelbrock victor water pump (clock wise) and a set dual spal fans. They controlled by a spal fan controller.
No more overheating problems











coooooooool greetings

Markus
 

68converted

Member
Nov 19, 2003
772
0
16
Colorado
Dec 14, 2008
#9
  • Dec 14, 2008
  • #9
I used a flex a lite fan with a three row aluminum rediator. When this fan turns on, which only happens when it is sitting idling. The amount of air that is pushed through the radiator is amazing. Great set up! I use a 180* thermostat and the controler is set at 185*. No issues with draining the battery, though I did the 100amp 3 G.

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f210/68converted/Radiator01.jpg
 
5

57fairlane

New Member
Apr 2, 2005
560
0
0
Oakwood, GA
Dec 14, 2008
#10
  • Dec 14, 2008
  • #10
65ShelbyClone said:
For 350-400hp, a better radiator will be mandatory. I have a fairly new 3-row in my '68 and it's not enough if the outside temp is over about 85°. The water temp will keep slowly climbing it takes a long downhill to get it back down to ~190. Below 80, though, it cools just fine.
Click to expand...

x2

mine did exactly the same thing with a 300rwhp 306.

Ended up putting a griffin radiator and the fan was rarely on except during the summer and not moving . . . even with a junk hayden fan.
 

65ShelbyClone

Founding Member
Sep 9, 2000
4,675
38
119
Antelope Valley, SoCal
Dec 15, 2008
#11
  • Dec 15, 2008
  • #11
I forgot to mention that I also have a fan shroud and it still doesn't cool that well. The fan is a stock 5-blade flex, but it still pulls a lot of air.

Having a really good radiator means less airflow is needed to keep things cool so the fan doesn't have to be that great. I put a 31x19" Northern aluminum in an '89 GT I used to have and it stayed rock steady at 195° even with a bad fan clutch in 110° weather going up a hill with the A/C. That was with the same engine that is in my '68 now. I hate to think how fast it would heat up if I got the A/C working...
 
P

pyroman

Founding Member
Jul 28, 2002
480
3
18
Ennis, Texas
Dec 15, 2008
#12
  • Dec 15, 2008
  • #12
I see that alot of you who have posted here have converted to EFI. I plan to run carbed, are the electric fan suggestions still valid?
 

65ShelbyClone

Founding Member
Sep 9, 2000
4,675
38
119
Antelope Valley, SoCal
Dec 15, 2008
#13
  • Dec 15, 2008
  • #13
Yes. The power level is what dictates cooling needs, not the method of fueling by itself.
 
P

pyroman

Founding Member
Jul 28, 2002
480
3
18
Ennis, Texas
Dec 15, 2008
#14
  • Dec 15, 2008
  • #14
Right. I was just wondering if they used any fancy electronic gadgets that required an ECU. But, I'm guessing that is all self contained with the equipment purchased.
 
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