Electric fan question

I bought a proform electric fan, and its a nice kit, I installed everything correctly and the box says it can be turned on at 180* and I have tried and my fan is coming on at about 210* can anybody tell me what I'm doing wrong, I got the probe thing about 3-4 inches away from the upper hose! and the knob turned all way over.
 
I agree about the probe possibly being an issue (if it's not a screw-in thermostatic switch). Some of them are real finicky at best.

Good luck.
 
srothfuss said:
Am I wrong, or does the probe need to go closer to the bottom radiator hose? Since you want to measure the temperature of the coolant coming into the radiator?
Steve, am I having a brain fart, or is the lower hose the outlet from the radiator. I think so. ;)

This (the lower hose) is where you would have installed Baskin's probe, but his probe is backwards from many in that he uses radiator outlet temps (as I recall). A lot of the parts store controllers use temps as they enter the radiator.
 
I'm sorry JT, I think backwards and that post is worded horribly... When I think of radiators, I think of the flow of coolant going into and out of the engine. I worded my original post in some sort of 1/2 way state of mind that I can't really explain at the moment.

What I ment to ask was: Don't you want to measure the temperature of the coolant entering the engine to determine if the fan should run or not? When you measure the coolant at the top of the radiator, it's extreamly hot for sure but the radiator fins haven't had a chance to remove any of the heat. By doing it this way, doesn't the fan run unnecessarily?
 
I was going to chime in on that srothfuss. I do remember see coolant coming into the radiator from the top hose when I had the cap off. I would assume and you know what that does, that he wants the fan to come on sooner. Those temp sensors kinda suck sometimes and maybe his isn't as sensitive as it should be. I would try mounting it close to the top hose and see if that helps...PB
 
srothfuss said:
I'm sorry JT, I think backwards and that post is worded horribly... When I think of radiators, I think of the flow of coolant going into and out of the engine. I worded my original post in some sort of 1/2 way state of mind that I can't really explain at the moment.

What I ment to ask was: Don't you want to measure the temperature of the coolant entering the engine to determine if the fan should run or not? When you measure the coolant at the top of the radiator, it's extreamly hot for sure but the radiator fins haven't had a chance to remove any of the heat. By doing it this way, doesn't the fan run unnecessarily?
I know exactly what you did Steve - I do it often myself (esp when talkin about trans cooler lines going into and out of the radiator's heat exchanger). I wouldnt have even said anything except that I knew you mispoke and I didnt want any confusion to arise.

My take is that most controllers have the probe close to the t-stat because the stat rating is a known. And since coolant flow into the radiator is key on the stat and we dont want the fan running when the stat is closed, it makes sense.
One guy might have a radiator that drops temps 20*F and another guy's might drop them 40*F, so having the probe on the radiator outlet might lead to synchronization issues with the stat and fan.

That's why Baskin's controller is intriguing - I'm pretty sure he did say to put the probe at the radiator outlet (call me on it if I'm wrong - though I can say that it works marvelously like that if I am wrong). That's the neat thing about his fuzzy logic-ish controller - it must cool the system as a whole, not with a random switch that's either on or off. :nice:
 
I have the same fan set up on my 79 notch 5.0 EFI. I tried moving the sensor closer to the inlet of the radiator (not a very long capilary tube on it) mine runs at 210 too with a very short cycle. It runs at about 200 on manual. I'm tired of playing with it and switching back to a full shroud and stock fan. Maybe you can find something I didn't?