I've got an electric cooling fan that comes with a temperature sensor that's 3/8" NPT threaded.
Wondering where others have installed this?
Wondering where others have installed this?
Electric Fan Temperature Sensor Location
- Thread starter Husky44
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there are a number of places to install it. probably the best place is in the lower radiator hose. there is an insert for the hose to install the sensor there. remember however to run a proper ground from the insert to the chassis or the engine.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hre-3436/overview/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hre-3436/overview/
Shakerhood
15 Year Member
Grabbin' Asphalt
5 Year Member
^^^^bought that pretty cheap at autozone already tapped
that works also.
Alternate placement for a temp gauge sender:
Revised 24 July 2011 to add better temp sender location description and the necessity to loop the fluid flow through the heater circuit.
How it works:
If you want any kind of operation similar to stock, the ECT/heater feed line is the best place for a temp sender or fan thermo sensor. After all, the computer uses the ECT to pick up data on how warm the engine is. Putting the temp sender in the same line as the ECT is a simple way to get the best possible accuracy at minimum cost and complication.
Some things to keep in mind:
Just be sure that you haven’t blocked the coolant return because of a leaky heater core. For this to work correctly, the coolant needs to flow from the ECT sensor tubing back to the water pump. That means a leaky heater circuit gets looped rather than just plugged up. Join the rubber hoses together with a hose splice from Home Depot rather than plug them up.
Where to put it:
Use the heater feed that comes off the intake manifold that has the ECT sensor in it. Cut the rubber hose that connects the manifold water feed to the heater and splice in a tee adapter for the temp gauge sender. That way you will get the most accurate temp readings since the coolant is always flowing through the heater circuit in a stock car. Remember to include a ground wire if you use an electrical sender.
Tee adapter info:
Make a pilgrimage to your local hardware or home supply center and get some copper pipe and a tee that fits the temp gauge sender. Solder two pieces of copper pipe onto a copper pipe tee with threads in the tee part. Find the correct brass fitting to match the temp sender threads to the tee fitting.
Revised 24 July 2011 to add better temp sender location description and the necessity to loop the fluid flow through the heater circuit.
How it works:
If you want any kind of operation similar to stock, the ECT/heater feed line is the best place for a temp sender or fan thermo sensor. After all, the computer uses the ECT to pick up data on how warm the engine is. Putting the temp sender in the same line as the ECT is a simple way to get the best possible accuracy at minimum cost and complication.
Some things to keep in mind:
Just be sure that you haven’t blocked the coolant return because of a leaky heater core. For this to work correctly, the coolant needs to flow from the ECT sensor tubing back to the water pump. That means a leaky heater circuit gets looped rather than just plugged up. Join the rubber hoses together with a hose splice from Home Depot rather than plug them up.
Where to put it:
Use the heater feed that comes off the intake manifold that has the ECT sensor in it. Cut the rubber hose that connects the manifold water feed to the heater and splice in a tee adapter for the temp gauge sender. That way you will get the most accurate temp readings since the coolant is always flowing through the heater circuit in a stock car. Remember to include a ground wire if you use an electrical sender.
Tee adapter info:
Make a pilgrimage to your local hardware or home supply center and get some copper pipe and a tee that fits the temp gauge sender. Solder two pieces of copper pipe onto a copper pipe tee with threads in the tee part. Find the correct brass fitting to match the temp sender threads to the tee fitting.
I put mine in the back of my lower intake manifold where it was capped off it's in the coolant passages and works well for me
Keep in mind, the back of the intake location does run a few degrees cooler than the tstat housing or factory temp sender location.
It's fine to use if you have an adjustable type controller. If you rely on a temp switch setup, you might find the engine temp is 200 degrees when a 190 degree switch clicks on.
It's fine to use if you have an adjustable type controller. If you rely on a temp switch setup, you might find the engine temp is 200 degrees when a 190 degree switch clicks on.
Well that's good because I'm running a 180 stat with a 180 switch and if it comes in a little warmer to kick my second fan on I'm fine with that because I always have one fan constantly running the other is controlled by a switch
Shakerhood
15 Year Member
^^^^bought that pretty cheap at autozone already tapped
No, I bought a New Housing then Drilled and Tapped it. Plus I think that junk from Autozone is Cast Iron instead of Aluminum.
Thanks for all the input!
I looked at tapping the t-stat housing, but don't have a tap. Ordered the inline mount last night, then saw the post this morning from @MikeH686 and that reminded me that I needed to plug up that nipple fitting anyway. I ended up putting mine in the back, DS, of the lower intake. Good, quick, easy fix. I understand that the temps there will be slightly cooler, but my controller is adjustable, so I should be able to compensate.
Guess I'll be sending the inline fitting back once it gets here.
Thanks again!
I looked at tapping the t-stat housing, but don't have a tap. Ordered the inline mount last night, then saw the post this morning from @MikeH686 and that reminded me that I needed to plug up that nipple fitting anyway. I ended up putting mine in the back, DS, of the lower intake. Good, quick, easy fix. I understand that the temps there will be slightly cooler, but my controller is adjustable, so I should be able to compensate.
Guess I'll be sending the inline fitting back once it gets here.
Thanks again!
Grabbin' Asphalt
5 Year Member
^^^^bought that pretty cheap at autozone already tapped
I mean i bought that already, had it on a year plus, works great
I mean i bought that already, had it on a year plus, works great
Shakerhood
15 Year Member
^^^^bought that pretty cheap at autozone already tapped
I mean i bought that already, had it on a year plus, works great
Oh, I gottcha Bro, was it a Cast Iron piece that they gave you?
Grabbin' Asphalt
5 Year Member
I think it is, been a while but i think it was kinda heavy so i guess it is....lol
I like the Autozone housing method. Comes pre tapped and it's cast iron. The aluminum ones warp all the time, so it's like killing two birds with one stone. Definitely not in favor of putting a butt T in the radiator hose. Just adding another failire point, and it's more expensive.
Kurt
Kurt
Use one of the intake manifold bolts.
OR
The secondary power ground between the back of the upper intake manifold and the driver's side firewall.
Shakerhood
15 Year Member
I don't know if I agree, the aluminum housing is the same material as the manifold so it would expand and contract the same so less chance of warping, plus the cast iron can will most likely cause dis-similar corrosion.
f8tlfiveo
My wife likes my spool and blow-off valve.
I drilled an tapped the intake in the back.. Worked fine. Next time I will be using the coolant sensor for the ecu. It can be done if you have a quarter horse from what my tuner told me. I tapped the thermostat housing and I didn't think it worked well there.
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