Electric Fan
- Thread starter snoboardcore
- Start date
5.0calypso93lx
New Member
I'm not sure of which fan you bought, but i have heard of many problems with electric fans not pushing enough air. I have the flex-a-lite black magic in mine, and it blows some serious air, and it works thermostatically. But just try it out and see.
i have same fan but in stop and go traffic this fan labours to keep my 351w cool. i would say do not cheap out on a electric fan. pretty much electric fans do not work aswell as a fan off of the water pump so don't cheap out get something that covers the majority of you rad and flows serious cfm's.5.0calypso93lx said:
heres the specs on the pro form i was looking at
Height (in): 18.000
Width (in): 16.125
Thickness (in): 4.000
Flow Direction: Puller
Fan Quantity: Single
Maximum Fan CFM: 2,800
Number of Blades: 8 blades
Maximum Fan RPM: 2,200
Blade Material: Plastic
Blade Color: Black
Shroud Color: Black
Shroud Material: Plastic
Amp Draw: 13.9
Quantity: Sold as a kit.
Notes: This includes direct-fit brackets and a thermostat.
Fan Series: Electrical
Height (in): 18.000
Width (in): 16.125
Thickness (in): 4.000
Flow Direction: Puller
Fan Quantity: Single
Maximum Fan CFM: 2,800
Number of Blades: 8 blades
Maximum Fan RPM: 2,200
Blade Material: Plastic
Blade Color: Black
Shroud Color: Black
Shroud Material: Plastic
Amp Draw: 13.9
Quantity: Sold as a kit.
Notes: This includes direct-fit brackets and a thermostat.
Fan Series: Electrical
Something to consider is to use a factory fan from a donor car (junkyard) - you can score one cheap. Then use the savings to get a Dc Controller. The controller will help maximize the fan and charging system.
Good luck.
Good luck.
Michael Yount
Mustang Master
snoboard - the kinds of fans you almost never hear people complain about (in terms of moving enough air to get the job done) are 1) Lincoln MkViii fan, 2) Taurus 3.8L v6 fan, 3) Mustang SN95 fan, 4) SPAL dual 11" set up. Also, as hissin said, the DCC controller is the only way to go -- they also sell a fan that with the controller that will get the job done. www.dccontrol.com
I'd stay away from the $80-100 speedshop specials. They may work fine on a 4 cylinder, but many have problems when using them with V8's --- and a boosted V8 at that.
I'd stay away from the $80-100 speedshop specials. They may work fine on a 4 cylinder, but many have problems when using them with V8's --- and a boosted V8 at that.
srothfuss
Last night I stabbed the same guy 7 times in a row
Go to eBay and key in "Mark VIII fan"
They sell for less than $80.00 on there typically. Then get the DC controller to run the thing (their 35A unit will work just fine.) Oh, and don't forget about your charging system. The stock alternator will need to be changed out in favor of the 130A piece.
They sell for less than $80.00 on there typically. Then get the DC controller to run the thing (their 35A unit will work just fine.) Oh, and don't forget about your charging system. The stock alternator will need to be changed out in favor of the 130A piece.
thanks huys i dont no much about electric fans i was just looking at what they had on summit for the 5.0 and it came up with the pro form and a flexalite and something else. I think im gonna try the pro form its set up for the 5.0 and its got a thermostat. And it flows 2800cfm which i know is more than my factory fan considering the blades are all messed up and cracked and the clutch is prob junk.
I had that Proform on mine for a short time. Sorry, bring on the flames, but it's crap. The cheaply made temperature probe BROKE after I pulled it out to relocate it (figured maybe it wasn't sensing properly, since the fan just NEVER came on one day.)
It looked like the probe itself was a piece of brass with some solder dripped on the top. The "solder" part came right off the first time I pulled out the probe, and it never worked after that. And that's just the first issue. It covered MAYBE half the radiator.
A taurus fan covers like 80%, and the DCC has an adjustable range of temps, a temp probe, all required wiring, precautions for under drive pulley setups, and just due to the way it functions is far more efficient and less harsh on the electrical system.
It looked like the probe itself was a piece of brass with some solder dripped on the top. The "solder" part came right off the first time I pulled out the probe, and it never worked after that. And that's just the first issue. It covered MAYBE half the radiator.
A taurus fan covers like 80%, and the DCC has an adjustable range of temps, a temp probe, all required wiring, precautions for under drive pulley setups, and just due to the way it functions is far more efficient and less harsh on the electrical system.
I had problems with the dual black magic. Goddamn themostat never worked correctly. Cheap cheap cheap. Plus when it did work there was no historesis or Proportional Integral Derivitave (PID) control. It was simply a binary controller.
If I ever go that route again I'm not waisting one cent on "trying" somethng new. Mark8 fan and DC control all the way. By the time I got he wiring, thermostat, breaker and mounting figured out I could have paid for the DC controller.
If I ever go that route again I'm not waisting one cent on "trying" somethng new. Mark8 fan and DC control all the way. By the time I got he wiring, thermostat, breaker and mounting figured out I could have paid for the DC controller.
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