Electrical Gremlin

[aNotchAbove]

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So my car is frustrating the hell out of me. It died yesterday and today and ended up having to get it towed home tonite (free thanks to CAA).

Here's the low down as to whats going on. The car has ZERO power and doesn't turn over at all. So the first thing we tried was to boost it. We connected the first 3 cables and when we went to connect the final ground my car tried to start. Thinking the solenoid by the coil was the culprit we removed the ignition wire from the solenoid and tried to boost it again. The car didn't try to start like it did before. I'm thinking the ignition wire going to the solenoid is always hot. I'm going to borrow a buddy's volt meter tomorrow to test for sure. Another thing that I think could play a part in this is the fact that my TFI module on the distributor is really close to the water neck (dizzy needs to be restabbed a tooth over) and with all the overheating problems I've been having I was thinking the TFI could have crapped out. Possible? Both battery posts are squeeky clean.

Any suggestions to fix it or past experiences with this kind of thing would be great!

 

[jrichker]

Here's a checklist:

Since some of the tests will bypass the safety interlocks, make sure that the car is in neutral and the parking brake is set. Becoming a pancake isn’t part of the repair process…

Check battery, terminal connections, ground, starter relay switch (also known as solenoid) and starter in that order. The clamp on with 2 bolts battery terminal ends are a know problem causer.

A voltmeter is handy if you are familiar with how to use it to find bad connections. Measure the voltage drop across a connection: more than .5 volts across a connection indicates a problem.
See http://www.fluke.com/application_notes/automotive/circuit.asp?AGID=1&SID=103 for help for help troubleshooting voltage drops across grounds.

1.) Will the car start if it is jumped? Then clean battery terminals and check battery.

2.) Check the battery to engine block ground, and the ground behind the engine to the firewall.

3.) Jump the big terminals on the starter relay next to the battery with a screwdriver - watch out for the sparks! If the engine cranks, the starter and power wiring is good. The starter relay is also known as a starter solenoid.

4.) Then pull the small push on connector (red wire) off the starter relay (Looks like it is stuck on a screw). Then jump between the screw and the terminal that is connected to the battery. If it starts, the relay is good and your problem is in the rest of the circuit.

5.) Remember to check the ignition switch, neutral safety switch on auto trans and the clutch safety switch on manual trans cars. If they are good, then you have wiring problems.
Typical start circuit...
Diagram courtesy of Tmoss &Stang&2birds

See http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d80195963.gif for 88-90 year cars.
See http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d80195964.gif for 91-93 year cars.
See http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/1d/db/3c/0900823d801ddb3c.jsp for 94-95 model cars.

6.) The starter may be hung, loosen up the bolts that hold it on, and give it a good whack with a big hammer. Tighten up the bolts and try again.

7.) If that doesn't work, use a jumper cable from the positive lead on the battery direct to the starter post where the big wire from the relay connects. If it cranks then, it is the power wire from the relay gone bad. This will be hard to do, since there isn't much room to do it.

8.) Pull the starter and take it to Autozone or Pep Boys and have them test it. Starter fails test, then replace it. If you got this far, the starter is probably bad.